GEN 2 My First Truck, 2017 Ford Raptor Supercrew

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Swa737

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Very impressive! Which primer and paint did you use for the underbody rust spots?

Thanks for sharing!
 
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image98

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Rear End Paint

Very impressive! Which primer and paint did you use for the underbody rust spots?

Thanks for sharing!

Hi, primed with Rust-Oleum Sandable Primer (2494418) and finished with Rustoleum High Heat Paint (248903). The finish black is a little more flat than the Ford factory paint, but it's a good matching finish.
 
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image98

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The Catch Can Works

I drained the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can for the first time. I measured 1.5 tablespoons of motor oil for approximately 2000 miles of use. This oil won’t be coating my intake and valves.

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image98

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6” + 3” Auxiliary Reverse LED Lighting

I spent a couple of days installing a pair of 3” spots and a pair of 6” Light Bars under the rear bumper. Both pairs are wired directly to the trucks upfitter switches #4 and #5. No relays required. I spotted the 3” pods straight backwards while angling the 6” bars a little outward for a wider illumination spread.

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Installation for the brackets was very straightforward. No drilling or cutting. However, I assembled my own harness running three pairs of 14 AWG wires in ½” Taylor Convoluted Tubing and wrapped in electrical tape. I ran an extra pair of lines for future expansion. Every hot and neutral wire is connected with a Deutsch 2-pin connector. I fastened and ran my harness directly above and in parallel to the factory harness, which runs along the LH frame rail, above the gas tank, and over the spare tire. It almost looks stock.

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3” Rear Bumper Spot Lights

Rear Bumper LED Mounting Kit Combo with 2 LED Light Pods and Wiring Harness | ZROADZ

6” Rear Bumper Light Bars

Rear Bumper LED Mounting Kit Combo with 2 LED Light Bars and Wiring Harness | ZROADZ

AUX1 - Green(solid)/Blue(stripe) - 15A - EMPTY
AUX2 - Gray/Yellow - 15A - FRONT 40” LED light bar with relay (20-25 amp) 10 AWG
AUX3 - Violet/Orange - 10A - 3” front quad flood spots (6.66 amps) 14 AWG
AUX4 - Brown/Blue - 10A - 6” wide pair reverse (7 amps) 14 AWG
AUX5 - Gray/Orange - 5A - 3” reverse pair spots (3.33 amps) 14 AWG
AUX6 - Yellow/Violet - 5A - 3” front pair spots (3.33 amps) 14 AWG

This completes my first round of upgrades. I’m researching mass air intakes and am considering the Whipple Stage 1 Kit which is CARB compliant. I may also upgrade the exhaust system to something with a little more presence and a deeper note. However, the truck has plenty of power and smiles per mile as is. I am enjoying the toned down exhaust note and will drive it for a couple thousand more miles before making the changes. I still need to break the truck in!

In the meantime, if you like classic Mustangs, please check out my 1966 Mustang Convertible build thread over at the Vintage-Mustang Forum. Did I mention I’m installing a 2016 5.0 Coyote engine, Tremec T56, Currie 9” rear, hydroboost, coil over suspension, rack and pinion steering, 14” 6 Piston Discs up front, 12” Discs in the rear, and plenty of other restomod upgrades. Thanks for reading!

1966 Mustang Convertible Restomod Coyote Build - Vintage Mustang Forums

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Heelfan1

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I drained the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can for the first time. I measured 1.5 tablespoons of motor oil for approximately 2000 miles of use. This oil won’t be coating my intake and valves.

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Understandable, but with port injection valve build up shoul be eliminated.
 
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image98

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Deutsch 2-Pin Connector

Love the connectors. Need to get some of those. Do you have a source?

Hi, I have sourced my Deutsch 2-pin connectors from a number of sources. Attached are some links to materials.

Deutsch 2 pin plug for 14-18 gauge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166WDCVO/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Summit racing sells a number of different kits and spare terminal packs.

(set of 4)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900426

Crimping Tool

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900401/overview/

Heat Shrink Tubing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJSZ65A/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Assorted heat Shrink Tubing Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LTD1LT/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Insulated Wire Connectors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L6VDLK/?tag=fordraptorforum-20
 

Robtor310

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Hi, I have sourced my Deutsch 2-pin connectors from a number of sources. Attached are some links to materials.

Deutsch 2 pin plug for 14-18 gauge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166WDCVO/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Summit racing sells a number of different kits and spare terminal packs.

(set of 4)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900426

Crimping Tool

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900401/overview/

Heat Shrink Tubing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJSZ65A/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Assorted heat Shrink Tubing Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LTD1LT/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Insulated Wire Connectors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L6VDLK/?tag=fordraptorforum-20


Thanks!!
 
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image98

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Catch Can

Understandable, but with port injection valve build up shoul be eliminated.

There is an abundance of debate and research about the effectiveness of catch cans for dual port injection. The debate furthers when we start talking about engines with forced inductions and additional blowlby caused by boost. Ford Performance does offer an oil-air separator for the GT-350 and Coyote 5.0 engines. Oil vapors within the combustion chamber lower octane and performance. Ford has engineered these engines so that they can run fine without a catch can for hundreds of thousands of miles. However, based on what I have seen and read, filtering: oil, moisture, vapors out of the PCV, maintaining a clean intake, valves, and spark plugs, is an improvement in engineering.
 
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Swa737

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Hi, I’m new to the forum. I purchased my first truck, a 2017 Oxford White Raptor Supercrew back in July. I emailed probably nearly 25 Ford dealerships and found a Southern California dealer (near home actually) whom gave me a price that was very close to MSRP. I guess I was in the right place at the right time considering every other dealer in the area was 5 to 10 and even 15k over!

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I just marked one thousand miles on the odometer. I love this truck! I purchased with: 802A, Moonroof, Ext + Hood Graphics, CF, FPBE, Tailgate Step, Beadlocks, Applique, Heated, Steering Wheel, Tech Package, Heated Back Seats, Spray-In Bed Liner. I am determined to perform all of the customizations myself.

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First modification is running FORSCAN: Secure Idle Enable, Panic Alarm via FOB Requires 2 Presses, Heated Wheel & Seats on Home Screen, Auto Start Stop Disabled, FOB Global Open/Close, Double Horn Disable, Engine Temp & Transmission Temp Shows Above Gauges, and Stereo Extended Play 40 Minutes.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...iVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466

I swapped out the paper air filter for a K & N. Eventually I’d like to swap out for an aftermarket air box, but waiting for a few more CARB certified optins to hit the market. Next, I installed the UPR Dual Valve Catch Can.

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UPR 2017 F150 Ecoboost Plug n Play Dual Valve Catch Can Pro-Series™ Check Valves

I decided to go with the Retrax MX Retractable Bed Cover. It’s aluminum with a matte powder coat finish.

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I was surprised to find some mild surface rust and paint peeling on the rear end. This kind of quality is not up to par with the price, but it’s an easy fix.

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I sanded, primed, and painted prior to installing the Hellwig Rear Sway Bar #7743. Cornering has improved tremendously, but I realize the rear sway bar on a Raptor isn’t for everyone or any extreme off-roading. I could always disconnect if required.

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A truck wheel well should not be white! This is especially true on a Raptor. I purchased the U-Pol Black Urethane Spray-On Truck Liner Kit and gave it a go.

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After masking, I sanded with 180 grit paper followed by a scotch-bright pad. Cleaned with compressed air, wiped with isopropyl alcohol, and sprayed. Altogether, it took me about 6 hours to do the job. I’m super pleased with the aesthetic and robustness of the U-Pol. This completes round one of customizations. Thanks for reading.



Did you remove the plastic fender trim (flares) pieces or U-Pol over the fasteners that are inside the wheel well rim?
 
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