Jokerz Performance HDC Battery Cable Upgrade Kit/Grounding Kit Installed! (Pics!)

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Reptar

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Well I've been MIA from here for a while, been busy and haven't really done anything with the truck in forever other than drive it lol. Last year I did a tune and intake for it's 3rd bday and that was it ever since.

For the truck's 4th bday, I installed a HDC Battery Cable Upgrade Kit/Grounding Kit that Jokerz Performance offers. (He's running a group buy on them right now: http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f257...attery-cable-upgrade-kit-grounding-kit-46055/)

Factory cables are 4awg, which is decent, but with all of the electrical accessories on these trucks, and all of the added electrical goodies, upgrading to 1/0 never hurts! Also I've always improved the grounding on all of my vehicles since they usually have 1 puny little woven ground ******** the engine. Plus....it looks way better than factory!

So without further blabbing...a few pics of my 2016 mod! Unfortunately this will probably be the only mod the Raptor see's this year other than new tires because my other hoopties suck up the mod money LOL! Anyway, onto the pics!
 

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D

Deleted member 12951

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Does this give you any locations to go to ground and/or power?
I was running so many wires to the ground that I ended up getting a bus bar with a 2 gauge cable for 10 mount points (not using that many). I avoid connecting directly to the battery.

http://amzn.com/B0091VHLW4
 
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Reptar

Reptar

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Does this give you any locations to go to ground and/or power?
I was running so many wires to the ground that I ended up getting a bus bar with a 2 gauge cable for 10 mount points (not using that many). I avoid connecting directly to the battery.

http://amzn.com/B0091VHLW4

You can use the ground locations on the fender where the kit lands to use as a really solid ground point, that gives you 2 more vs the battery post direct. And for positive, you can tap into the fuse box post, or either end of the fuse holder (depending if you want it fused off the main cable fuse).

Damn that's expensive for what it is! Not worth it IMHO

Sorry bud, you clearly don't have a clue on material costs. Heck even a cheap amplifier wiring kit costs $50 with the cheapest cable and lug ends you can find. This isn't a cheaply tossed together kit. It's super-flex high strand 1/0 copper (so it bends and routes easily), tech flex sleeved (better looks & better protection), enclosed end-tinned copper lugs (keeps air out so cables don't corrode), chemical/moisture resistant heat shrink tubing to seal the ends, properly sized ANN fuse & fuse holder, AND on top of all that, it's pre-made, to length, for an exact drop in install.
 
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You can use the ground locations on the fender where the kit lands to use as a really solid ground point, that gives you 2 more vs the battery post direct. And for positive, you can tap into the fuse box post, or either end of the fuse holder (depending if you want it fused off the main )


Yes fully aware. I was using the ground off the factory location on the fender but it got too populated. And yes that is exactly where I am getting positive, off the fuse box post but it also got populated too. Perhaps I got too many lights.....
 

Jimbo

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Yes fully aware. I was using the ground off the factory location on the fender but it got too populated. And yes that is exactly where I am getting positive, off the fuse box post but it also got populated too. Perhaps I got too many lights.....


No such thing as too many lights
 

t_j

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Sorry bud, you clearly don't have a clue on material costs. Heck even a cheap amplifier wiring kit costs $50 with the cheapest cable and lug ends you can find. This isn't a cheaply tossed together kit. It's super-flex high strand 1/0 copper (so it bends and routes easily), tech flex sleeved (better looks & better protection), enclosed end-tinned copper lugs (keeps air out so cables don't corrode), chemical/moisture resistant heat shrink tubing to seal the ends, properly sized ANN fuse & fuse holder, AND on top of all that, it's pre-made, to length, for an exact drop in install.


Err maybe you should look at my build thread, i would rather build something than buy it, I have a very good understanding of material costs. However there is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock wiring! All this kit gets you is something else to worry about, I have never seen a single thread on this forum about having to replace any of these components because they where faulty!

All this kit does is add uncertainty to things that are proven rock solid components!

Personally I'd rather spend that 200 bucks on gas/hotel/food/etc on a run than on this mod with zero net gains!

---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 AM ----------

Oh and one claim of reducing voltage drop is of negligible benefit, the switch from 4awg (0.58% drop over 1' @ 150a) to 1/0awg (0.22%) that's a whole 0.36% improvement!
 
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Reptar

Reptar

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Yes fully aware. I was using the ground off the factory location on the fender but it got too populated. And yes that is exactly where I am getting positive, off the fuse box post but it also got populated too. Perhaps I got too many lights.....

You can attach more off the 5/16" post on the fuse holder with this kit. It's a long stud so it'll accommodate more wires easily than the factory fuse box stud.

Err maybe you should look at my build thread, i would rather build something than buy it, I have a very good understanding of material costs. However there is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock wiring! All this kit gets you is something else to worry about, I have never seen a single thread on this forum about having to replace any of these components because they where faulty!

All this kit does is add uncertainty to things that are proven rock solid components!

Personally I'd rather spend that 200 bucks on gas/hotel/food/etc on a run than on this mod with zero net gains!

Oh and one claim of reducing voltage drop is of negligible benefit, the switch from 4awg (0.58% drop over 1' @ 150a) to 1/0awg (0.22%) that's a whole 0.36% improvement!

I don't need to even look at your build thread, the simple statement that it's overpriced shows how out of the loop you are on prices of quality materials, excluding even the labor to assemble it, and time to design it to be a direct replacement. It's not hammered open lug ends on bare cheap stereo cable lol. THen your statement on no point to upgrade, you must have a bone stock truck then right, because Ford always engineers and designs everything the absolute best with zero room for improvement right?.....No? You have mods? Hmmm....hypocritical much? lol

The simple argument of no point to upgrade when there's nothing wrong with stock....*****!!! Do you troll everyone elses threads who changed wheels, added hood/bed decals, tinted windows, or shit even added an intake or other mods that negligibly do anything for performance beyond a slight improvement, but we still all do mods that are better even if stock is already really good.

I haven't seen a single thread guys had to replace factory wheels with methods because their stock ones were faulty, or replace factory intakes with aftermarket because they were faulty lol. No they replace them because it's an upgrade over stock. So just because there haven't been threads where the factory wiring failed doesn't mean it's a pointless mod. The factory cables actually have pretty ****** ends with the copper exposed. While these trucks are only a few years old it's not a problem yet, but over time, the copper being exposed like that leads to corroded wires. Ever have an old vehicle you had to wiggle the cables on to start it? It's from exposed crimps like that. This kit uses all tin plated enclosed lugs, hydraulically crimped, and sealed shrink tubing, so there's no exposed copper anywhere, so these will far outlast stock cables, while reducing voltage losses as well from larger gauge.

The factory 4awg cables are sufficient, but they aren't the best. Ford's been using 4AWG cables on their electrical systems for decades. They keep adding electrical accessories stock, but keep the same wiring. While 4 AWG was huge for older less electronic systems, it's only sufficient now. My 15 year old f150 had 4AWG cabling and other than EFI, power windows, power doors, and a/c, and basic speakers, that was about it. The Raptor has the same wiring, but now in addition to those same electrical items as 15 years ago, it also has huge e-fans, heated/cooled seats, way more lights, navigation, factory sub/amp, twice the # of speakers, cameras, then on top of that additional aftermarket accessories through aux switches. So yes, the factory wires are still sufficient, but 1/0 is definitely an upgrade. One simple look at the alternator cable makes it pretty easily seen, when you've got two tiny gauge wires as the alternator cable, then you're running out of room to stuff aftermarket wiring on the fuse box, you're hooking a fire hose up to a straw and expecting to power all these aftermarket accessories through wiring that's just sufficient for stock accessories.

And not sure the last time you used a tape measure, but there's almost 9 feet of cable in this kit....so if your estimate of just a foot of able is actually 9' worth, I guess you must also have a 12 foot long ding **** lol. And it's been proven many times that upgrading from the factory 4 AWG battery cables to 1/0 can often pick up around 0.2V which doesn't sound like a whole lot, but when you're talking 12v systems, it's a good improvement, especially the more accessories you add and have on at the same time.
 
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