Wiring Locking Differential to Up-Fitter Switch

Not sure what topic this falls under, so since I need electrical guidance I put it here (Mods, please relocate if necessary).

Have had some interest within another thread so I decided to start its own thread.

So the question is:

Has anyone bypassed all the electronic BS nannies and wired their locking diff to an up-fitter switch?

I am considering but have one question....

Does anyone know if our locking diffs require an exact amount of voltage/current to actuate the mechanism?

In other words, do our locking diffs require a certain mount of power to lock it in or does it just take 12v from the battery?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I would like the ability to lock the diff in when ever I wanted...

What has been stated so far...

Marc "INI" stated this has been tried before but they burnt up the locking diff because a constant 12v was being applied to the locker. He came to the conclusion it took 12v to engage it then voltage dropped to 5v to keep it engaged... thoughts anyone?

If the prior statement is true, is there some type of relay which will control voltage like this?

couldnt you just tap into the 2 wires leading to the diffe with a volt meter and have someone engage it and see if it goes down to 5 volts, im very interested in this and want to know what your conclusions are.

JDUB, I can't see how it would burn out by keeping constant power, since it's magnetic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VPPGsYq6TE

I bet you, that guy your referring to just hot wired it for all the time and simple strip the crap out of it driving on the streets and making tight turns on dry pavement.

The person that mentioned the dropping voltage as a requirement was whoever monitors the official @RPG account (original post). Not sure if it is Corey himself, but I'm confident whoever it is knows what he is talking about.

As far as wiring it, it wouldn't too hard if you could do it with a timer to control the amount of time to send 12v. Then a relay to switch between two supply wires and, finally, resistors or something else to drop the voltage on one of the supply wires. I'm not sure if a timer will work because I could imagine a third wire signaling back to the ECU on when to drop the voltage to 5v.

It should be pretty easy to tap into the wires that go into the diff with a multimeter and measure voltage and amperage in each state, unlocked, locking, and locked. Then through multiple tests, you should be able to figure out if a timer will work. I would also do tests under different conditions, such as stopped, rolling, ORM on, and ORM off.

My Bad, I did not read the second sentence.

Interesting, hummmm

Someone would have to call Eaton's tech support and get some real info on how the E locker works for a Raptor and the requirements for engagement.
Might not work if Ford has the proprietary rights to the design.

Someone should ask @dkfc13 I thought (I could be wrong) he worked for Eaton or Dana.

MTF said:

Someone would have to call Eaton's tech support and get some real info on how the E locker works for a Raptor and the requirements for engagement.
Might not work if Ford has the proprietary rights to the design.

Click to expand...

Definitely a worthwhile first step. Would save a lot of time over my guess-and-check method.

PM sent to dkfc13

Let me see what I can find out. I will let you know when I hear something.

Guys, I believe GKN makes the electronic locking rear diff and JTEKT makes the front LSD. I don't believe Eaton or Dana has an e-locker available for the Raptor.

Might want to talk to Greg @Squatting Dog or Keith @wiz1500 as they are pretty familiar with Raptor axles.

Sorry I couldnt be more help.