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Zombiekiller's "Donkey" build up
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<blockquote data-quote="zombiekiller" data-source="post: 1253844" data-attributes="member: 25186"><p>not required, but I think any gen2 would look pretty goofy with an RPG BOLT kit, +6 deberti fenders and 35" tires. </p><p></p><p>The bolt kit, in this scenario, would be the "cheap" part. </p><p></p><p>Add in another 6500-7K for coilovers & bypasses. </p><p></p><p>Add another 750 for bumps</p><p></p><p>Then add 1500 + shipping for the fenders and bedsides. </p><p></p><p>Then add another 3-4K for a solid body shop to install the fenders/bedsides, then paint. </p><p></p><p>then add $$$ for wheels that are the right size/offset. </p><p></p><p>Your bolt kit ends up being 6K or so...</p><p></p><p>The rest of the front setup will be $16K-ish with poor guy wheels. </p><p></p><p>Add a simple rear setup that is leaf spring/bypass rack/3.5s, and some 39s to round it out and you're in the range of $30-35K from cradle to completion, since I'm assuming at a minimum, someone would opt to upgrade the rear suspension to sort of match. I would tend to imagine that cages and other safety gear, plus some upgraded brakes to stop the truck with 39s/40s on it would be Apt too. That would mean you're probably adding another 5-8K. </p><p></p><p>Now we're at 43K on the high-ish side. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Just not my bag if you consider that for 45K...</p><p></p><p> I could buy a project truck, not feel bad about stripping away anything that I wasn't going to use for scrap...</p><p></p><p> then go full-on back-half, linked, LT, 500HP+, etc etc etc for the same price, if not less, depending on which truck platform i bought and if it had any work done yet. </p><p></p><p>There's a 72 F-150 with a fresh monster 514ci big block, beefy C6 and a 40 spline full floater 9" local to me for $6500. If I started there for a crazy, do-anything toy, I'd be all-in for less than $40K. 100% certain. and I wouldn't have to deal with not being able to use my raptor unless i was going to the desert, or the starbuck's drivethru speed bumps were too much for my daily. </p><p></p><p><img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></p><p></p><p></p><p><strong>On the raptor project front, I ordered the BD lights that I'll need to complete my plan. I've been spending time building out my relay/junction box and wiring harness to make everything clean, easy to troubleshoot/understand, centralized and safe. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>I am using a waterproof full-size pistol case (pelican style) to mount everything into it. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>What is my plan for the electrical? </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>When I added the pro eagle jack to the bed, I didn't feel like I needed to keep the factory scissor jack in the truck anymore. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Removing this gives me space to mount my relay/junction box and my TK790H remote head radio behind the rear passenger seat in the cab. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>I'll end up organizing my aux switches as: Racer spot, Spot, Driving, Wide, Chase, and Reverse. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>The Factory Aux switches will be dedicated for lights. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>For my relay box, I have a 6 position fuse panel inside of it. I have it wired to use 6 30 amp relays. these are wired to a 6 position marine fuse panel with blown fuse indicator lights. </strong></p><p><strong>Everything but positions 5 and 6 are fused with 30A fuses. positions 5&6 are fused at 15A. </strong></p><p><strong>(I do not plan to go nuts with chase or reverse lights. My supplemental cargo area lighting are rechargeable magnetic mount handhelds). </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>I'm using a 200A master SPST relay to control master power to the whole setup. Right now it is fused at 100A. It will be triggered by ignition power. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>If I add additional draw/circuits to this setup, I have the master relay and fuse for it wired in modularly, so I can expand and either just use a more robust fuse, or replace the master relay and fuse easily. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>I am going to wire the TK790H separately, on its own relay/fuse that will be triggered by a circuit that is tied to the Aux ignition function. the relay will be housed in the same junction box. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>If I end up needing additional switches, I'd probably just pick up a switchpros rig and mount ( that replaces the sunglass holder), however, I'm only really contemplating onboard air, a roof lightbar, adding a single rear-facing blue LED and adding a single rear-facing green LED. (so I have the chase light requirement for different states ORV areas) </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Those 4 additions don't really scream "spend 700 bucks on a fancy switch panel" to me though. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>so far, I have about $150 into my whole wiring project. If i didnt have the aptitude, or I just wanted the easy button, I'd probably either just buy the painless wiring rig that performs a similar function, or a switchpros rig to wire it all. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>The last few bits that I am waiting to be delivered are for the showme flasher that I'll be using for the chase lights. The little gadget cost me $40. I am wiring 2 power sources to the chase lights with heavy duty diodes. I'll tie the chase lights to a SPDT relay. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>This will make it so in the relay's "off" position, The showme flasher will power the lights and will give me all my different pattern selection. When I flip the upfitter switch, The chase lights will now be on constant, as the spdt flips power from pin 87A to 87.</strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>turn the upfitter switch back off and the chase lights will flash again until I power off the showme. </strong></p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>I am only undecided on whether to wire my front yellow s2 pros to the showme as well to have flashing pattern output front and rear.</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="zombiekiller, post: 1253844, member: 25186"] not required, but I think any gen2 would look pretty goofy with an RPG BOLT kit, +6 deberti fenders and 35" tires. The bolt kit, in this scenario, would be the "cheap" part. Add in another 6500-7K for coilovers & bypasses. Add another 750 for bumps Then add 1500 + shipping for the fenders and bedsides. Then add another 3-4K for a solid body shop to install the fenders/bedsides, then paint. then add $$$ for wheels that are the right size/offset. Your bolt kit ends up being 6K or so... The rest of the front setup will be $16K-ish with poor guy wheels. Add a simple rear setup that is leaf spring/bypass rack/3.5s, and some 39s to round it out and you're in the range of $30-35K from cradle to completion, since I'm assuming at a minimum, someone would opt to upgrade the rear suspension to sort of match. I would tend to imagine that cages and other safety gear, plus some upgraded brakes to stop the truck with 39s/40s on it would be Apt too. That would mean you're probably adding another 5-8K. Now we're at 43K on the high-ish side. Just not my bag if you consider that for 45K... I could buy a project truck, not feel bad about stripping away anything that I wasn't going to use for scrap... then go full-on back-half, linked, LT, 500HP+, etc etc etc for the same price, if not less, depending on which truck platform i bought and if it had any work done yet. There's a 72 F-150 with a fresh monster 514ci big block, beefy C6 and a 40 spline full floater 9" local to me for $6500. If I started there for a crazy, do-anything toy, I'd be all-in for less than $40K. 100% certain. and I wouldn't have to deal with not being able to use my raptor unless i was going to the desert, or the starbuck's drivethru speed bumps were too much for my daily. :biggrin: [B]On the raptor project front, I ordered the BD lights that I'll need to complete my plan. I've been spending time building out my relay/junction box and wiring harness to make everything clean, easy to troubleshoot/understand, centralized and safe. I am using a waterproof full-size pistol case (pelican style) to mount everything into it. What is my plan for the electrical? When I added the pro eagle jack to the bed, I didn't feel like I needed to keep the factory scissor jack in the truck anymore. Removing this gives me space to mount my relay/junction box and my TK790H remote head radio behind the rear passenger seat in the cab. I'll end up organizing my aux switches as: Racer spot, Spot, Driving, Wide, Chase, and Reverse. The Factory Aux switches will be dedicated for lights. For my relay box, I have a 6 position fuse panel inside of it. I have it wired to use 6 30 amp relays. these are wired to a 6 position marine fuse panel with blown fuse indicator lights. Everything but positions 5 and 6 are fused with 30A fuses. positions 5&6 are fused at 15A. (I do not plan to go nuts with chase or reverse lights. My supplemental cargo area lighting are rechargeable magnetic mount handhelds). I'm using a 200A master SPST relay to control master power to the whole setup. Right now it is fused at 100A. It will be triggered by ignition power. If I add additional draw/circuits to this setup, I have the master relay and fuse for it wired in modularly, so I can expand and either just use a more robust fuse, or replace the master relay and fuse easily. I am going to wire the TK790H separately, on its own relay/fuse that will be triggered by a circuit that is tied to the Aux ignition function. the relay will be housed in the same junction box. If I end up needing additional switches, I'd probably just pick up a switchpros rig and mount ( that replaces the sunglass holder), however, I'm only really contemplating onboard air, a roof lightbar, adding a single rear-facing blue LED and adding a single rear-facing green LED. (so I have the chase light requirement for different states ORV areas) Those 4 additions don't really scream "spend 700 bucks on a fancy switch panel" to me though. so far, I have about $150 into my whole wiring project. If i didnt have the aptitude, or I just wanted the easy button, I'd probably either just buy the painless wiring rig that performs a similar function, or a switchpros rig to wire it all. The last few bits that I am waiting to be delivered are for the showme flasher that I'll be using for the chase lights. The little gadget cost me $40. I am wiring 2 power sources to the chase lights with heavy duty diodes. I'll tie the chase lights to a SPDT relay. This will make it so in the relay's "off" position, The showme flasher will power the lights and will give me all my different pattern selection. When I flip the upfitter switch, The chase lights will now be on constant, as the spdt flips power from pin 87A to 87. turn the upfitter switch back off and the chase lights will flash again until I power off the showme. I am only undecided on whether to wire my front yellow s2 pros to the showme as well to have flashing pattern output front and rear.[/B] [/QUOTE]
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Zombiekiller's "Donkey" build up
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