Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
RAM TRX - TRX-Forum.com
Bronco Raptor - BroncoRaptorForum.com
Forums
GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]
Your Raptors Audio System
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="The Car Stereo Company" data-source="post: 753790" data-attributes="member: 7124"><p>i forgot to mention, the connection used, is directly into the rta using the input wired to the speaker wires coming from the amp. there is no microphone involved therefore removing the possibility of ambient noise entering the system. also, these were tested at half volume (approximately 50-60%) and not full volume. and volume was not changed throughout the whole process. but i will go into that later</p><p></p><p>the first pic is of the front tweeter. as you can see, directly from the amp it is crossed over. if you look on the left side, the frequency drops off at right at 6,000hz. and disappears at 4,000hz. and on the right side, it drops off at 16,000hz.</p><p></p><p>now in the second pic, it shows the front door woofer on the left side, it drops off at 160hz and completely disappears at 40hz. the audible threshold for humans is roughly 20hz. meaning we are missing 40-20 hz. if you look at the high end of the spectrum, you will notice that it keeps going into the tweeter range. this is the cause of not hearing bass in our trucks. as we get higher into the volume level the oem eq will cut even more bass, but due to the the large overlap of frequencies from the door woofer and the tweeter, the mid presence is a bit extreme to say the least.</p><p></p><p>the rear speakers. as you can see, the boosted the bass to the rear speakers, with very little in the higher frequency range. this is why i say to tap into the rear speakers for adding just an amp and sub. you get the most bass output from the rear speakers allowing a little better output than using the oem subwoofer wires.</p><p></p><p>i forgot to take a pic of the sub wires when i had this apart, but it is not much different than the 2013-14 sub so that will be explained later</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="The Car Stereo Company, post: 753790, member: 7124"] i forgot to mention, the connection used, is directly into the rta using the input wired to the speaker wires coming from the amp. there is no microphone involved therefore removing the possibility of ambient noise entering the system. also, these were tested at half volume (approximately 50-60%) and not full volume. and volume was not changed throughout the whole process. but i will go into that later the first pic is of the front tweeter. as you can see, directly from the amp it is crossed over. if you look on the left side, the frequency drops off at right at 6,000hz. and disappears at 4,000hz. and on the right side, it drops off at 16,000hz. now in the second pic, it shows the front door woofer on the left side, it drops off at 160hz and completely disappears at 40hz. the audible threshold for humans is roughly 20hz. meaning we are missing 40-20 hz. if you look at the high end of the spectrum, you will notice that it keeps going into the tweeter range. this is the cause of not hearing bass in our trucks. as we get higher into the volume level the oem eq will cut even more bass, but due to the the large overlap of frequencies from the door woofer and the tweeter, the mid presence is a bit extreme to say the least. the rear speakers. as you can see, the boosted the bass to the rear speakers, with very little in the higher frequency range. this is why i say to tap into the rear speakers for adding just an amp and sub. you get the most bass output from the rear speakers allowing a little better output than using the oem subwoofer wires. i forgot to take a pic of the sub wires when i had this apart, but it is not much different than the 2013-14 sub so that will be explained later [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Members online
Speedstr
smgilles
dillard09
RiskTkr
Evasive
Telecaster480
BamaFun
DDD2019
LastRapWorld83
navy2x
pattmarsons
WhiskeyTangoGTFO
fordrat
OBXRAPTOR17
G3Rap
kandewinn
LibertyDNP
JAYL1985
Barak
MSP
Jakenbake
Admin.RealTruck
ln13ln13
MZRaptor72
Raptor812
joeyrotorhead
LayinWatts69
24NoVARaptor
Ryan Voight
quattrojim
DutchDad
US HWY 666
petrolhead
tmlau03
Budget1
southof30A
RRangus
Tigmandick
RogueClimber
Marlboroman
62crew
Navigator55
nelsonr103
TrucksRcool
BoostCreep
taquitos
CANNON
stevenstommyboy1
ToadSmasher2K1
vdanno3131
... and 15 more.
Forum statistics
Threads
93,184
Posts
1,955,590
Members
56,468
Latest member
ngodavid23
Forums
GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]
Your Raptors Audio System
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top