Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
RAM TRX - TRX-Forum.com
Bronco Raptor - BroncoRaptorForum.com
Forums
GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford SVT Raptor General Discussions [GEN 1]
Jokerz Performance HDC Battery Cable Upgrade Kit/Grounding Kit Installed! (Pics!)
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Reptar" data-source="post: 950169" data-attributes="member: 1883"><p>Lmao, sorry, it's still a 12v system as that's the industry standard, just because you read 13.8 on the battery with the engine running and the alternator outputting doesn't mean it's a 13.8 system, it's still a 12v system. Old cars used to be 6v, then they went 12v, a lot of race cars run 16v or even 24. You'll read above 12v on a good battery, sometimes below on a weak one, and when the engine is running an alternator outputting, it'll output 13-14+ depending on RPM and load.</p><p></p><p>Walk into anywhere automotive related and tell them you don't want to buy a 12v battery, or a 12v LED bar, but a 13.8v battery or 13.8v LED bar, they'll look at you like the doofus you're making yourself out to be lol. It's a 12v system. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Didn't say it will make your 12v system magically 16v...or excuse me in your case your 13.8v system a 18.2v system lol. But it does help reduce voltage drop and it can be easily measured. You are correct voltage sensitivity on electrical system is a huge issue, and systems are designed for a minimum of 12v, but many things run better at higher voltages (which is why a lot of guys who drag race run 16v systems, injectors for one LOVE that higher voltage), so a kit like this to reduce voltage drop, even if it's only a small amount, is a helpful mod. Not earth shattering, but it's certainly not hurting, it's only an improvement. Especially when guys start loading up aftermarket accessories putting more draw on the stock wiring. One guy already posted he has so many things hooked up he barely has room to hook more, that's certainly loading the factory wiring pretty well, and larger gauge cables are only a benefit to reduce that "bottleneck" of trying to power everything through stock wires. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Yes I am comparing electrical systems of 15 years ago, because it's the SAME EXACT 4AWG cabling for the battery, alternator, and fuse box as 15 years ago! And last I checked, power consumption for major electrical hogs like power windows, electric fans, amps, HVAC, etc. are still electrical hogs. </p><p></p><p>Yes a few things improved like LEDs drawing less than incandescent gauge backlighting, but trust me, your incandescent gauge backlighting was NOT the big power draw item lol. Also incase you hadn't noticed, in your Raptor your turn signals, parking lights, taillights, dome lights, are all incandescent still (oh you changed turn signals to LEDs? bet you also installed a load resistor....so it loads the system like factory bulbs and doesn't hyperflash....so you didn't save squat power wise with those LEDs lol) And there's additional sensors, control modules, displays, etc. all running now which consume more power. My 15 year old truck has 3 displays, all about 1/4" to 1/2" tall. A green odometer read out, a green clock/radio read out, and a green temp readout. Wow such a power draw ***** lol. The Raptor has the 4.2" productivity screen and 7" nav screen....little more power draw than my little old odometer, clock, and temp screen of my 2000 lol. Those things are still in the weeds though, they haven't done any high tech low power alternatives to the usual big power draw items like pumps, fans, motors, heaters. Heck they've added even more electrical hogs, such as factory e-fans vs clutch fans, heated seats, and electric power steering (not in the rap, but in this gen truck with the same 4awg wiring)....Doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize newer trucks with a LOT more electrical accessories are drawing significantly more power than 15 year old trucks....with the same 4awg power wiring. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Well you'd be a hypocrite otherwise if you had mods, because I'm sure you have at least one mod on the truck that isn't an improvement over ford bone stock boring factory but you still did it because you felt it was a good mod anyway, and i'm sure you have at least one mod that changed a part that isn't an item that fails frequently stock but you still changed it because you felt it was a good mod. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Scaremogering? lmao. Did I post up and say "you all must get this mod NOW or your truck WILL fail and you WILL have problems! Beware!". Nope, simply shared a new mod to my truck, that I haven't seen posted before, that I felt was an improvement and a good mod, and Jokerz is doing a GB on them right now. Simply sharing info. Is there a problem with that? Can I stop feeding the troll now? <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/baby.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":baby:" title="Baby :baby:" data-shortname=":baby:" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Worth at least 5 hp, but Ford didn't put any stickers on the back window from the factory, so I didn't want to install the sticker because I haven't seen any people post that they had problems with their windows because of not running stickers.....and the sticker is only 2"x3" which is only 0.3% of the area of the glass on the truck, and I don't feel that that 0.3% of cool stickerness justifies running it. <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/ROFLJest.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":ROFLJest:" title="ROFLJest :ROFLJest:" data-shortname=":ROFLJest:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Reptar, post: 950169, member: 1883"] Lmao, sorry, it's still a 12v system as that's the industry standard, just because you read 13.8 on the battery with the engine running and the alternator outputting doesn't mean it's a 13.8 system, it's still a 12v system. Old cars used to be 6v, then they went 12v, a lot of race cars run 16v or even 24. You'll read above 12v on a good battery, sometimes below on a weak one, and when the engine is running an alternator outputting, it'll output 13-14+ depending on RPM and load. Walk into anywhere automotive related and tell them you don't want to buy a 12v battery, or a 12v LED bar, but a 13.8v battery or 13.8v LED bar, they'll look at you like the doofus you're making yourself out to be lol. It's a 12v system. Didn't say it will make your 12v system magically 16v...or excuse me in your case your 13.8v system a 18.2v system lol. But it does help reduce voltage drop and it can be easily measured. You are correct voltage sensitivity on electrical system is a huge issue, and systems are designed for a minimum of 12v, but many things run better at higher voltages (which is why a lot of guys who drag race run 16v systems, injectors for one LOVE that higher voltage), so a kit like this to reduce voltage drop, even if it's only a small amount, is a helpful mod. Not earth shattering, but it's certainly not hurting, it's only an improvement. Especially when guys start loading up aftermarket accessories putting more draw on the stock wiring. One guy already posted he has so many things hooked up he barely has room to hook more, that's certainly loading the factory wiring pretty well, and larger gauge cables are only a benefit to reduce that "bottleneck" of trying to power everything through stock wires. Yes I am comparing electrical systems of 15 years ago, because it's the SAME EXACT 4AWG cabling for the battery, alternator, and fuse box as 15 years ago! And last I checked, power consumption for major electrical hogs like power windows, electric fans, amps, HVAC, etc. are still electrical hogs. Yes a few things improved like LEDs drawing less than incandescent gauge backlighting, but trust me, your incandescent gauge backlighting was NOT the big power draw item lol. Also incase you hadn't noticed, in your Raptor your turn signals, parking lights, taillights, dome lights, are all incandescent still (oh you changed turn signals to LEDs? bet you also installed a load resistor....so it loads the system like factory bulbs and doesn't hyperflash....so you didn't save squat power wise with those LEDs lol) And there's additional sensors, control modules, displays, etc. all running now which consume more power. My 15 year old truck has 3 displays, all about 1/4" to 1/2" tall. A green odometer read out, a green clock/radio read out, and a green temp readout. Wow such a power draw ***** lol. The Raptor has the 4.2" productivity screen and 7" nav screen....little more power draw than my little old odometer, clock, and temp screen of my 2000 lol. Those things are still in the weeds though, they haven't done any high tech low power alternatives to the usual big power draw items like pumps, fans, motors, heaters. Heck they've added even more electrical hogs, such as factory e-fans vs clutch fans, heated seats, and electric power steering (not in the rap, but in this gen truck with the same 4awg wiring)....Doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize newer trucks with a LOT more electrical accessories are drawing significantly more power than 15 year old trucks....with the same 4awg power wiring. Well you'd be a hypocrite otherwise if you had mods, because I'm sure you have at least one mod on the truck that isn't an improvement over ford bone stock boring factory but you still did it because you felt it was a good mod anyway, and i'm sure you have at least one mod that changed a part that isn't an item that fails frequently stock but you still changed it because you felt it was a good mod. Scaremogering? lmao. Did I post up and say "you all must get this mod NOW or your truck WILL fail and you WILL have problems! Beware!". Nope, simply shared a new mod to my truck, that I haven't seen posted before, that I felt was an improvement and a good mod, and Jokerz is doing a GB on them right now. Simply sharing info. Is there a problem with that? Can I stop feeding the troll now? :baby: Worth at least 5 hp, but Ford didn't put any stickers on the back window from the factory, so I didn't want to install the sticker because I haven't seen any people post that they had problems with their windows because of not running stickers.....and the sticker is only 2"x3" which is only 0.3% of the area of the glass on the truck, and I don't feel that that 0.3% of cool stickerness justifies running it. :ROFLJest: [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Members online
ToadSmasher2K1
Ebbie795
Diablo
mprice1234
TomDirt
24NoVARaptor
AfterMidnightRambler
Westbayou
db11000
Jmeo
jekyll537
shigman
jdm_sixtwo
RaptorFun
Reptar854
Dnpbakon
XSTNKT
wheelman55
ljn21
Swaddict
GordoJay
AZ Raptor
RogueClimber
SeasickLI
Swacer_2
Psirus7
RCorsa
Waterfowler41
Gumby
Wristdoc
ScottS23
Evil Peaches
freddyttt
WA2012
riv
Gdog
Gatica
never_summer
fordfreek
mobob
DAVfoto
Luchh224
WTX
Cherry Ghost
TheButcher
MurderedOutSVT
2022 Ruth
kingman630
ReallyNice
CleverGirl_
... and 4 more.
Forum statistics
Threads
93,204
Posts
1,955,951
Members
56,485
Latest member
bjorn-dpc
Forums
GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford SVT Raptor General Discussions [GEN 1]
Jokerz Performance HDC Battery Cable Upgrade Kit/Grounding Kit Installed! (Pics!)
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top