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Ford Raptor Forums - General Information
Ford Raptor Problems and Questions Forum
brake issue
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<blockquote data-quote="smurfslayer" data-source="post: 1277299" data-attributes="member: 21926"><p>Not to browbeat you... well, ok, it’s been a while since I participated in a real good interrogation.</p><p></p><p>you didn’t answer the question about how old the brake fluid is. Has it ever been changed? If not, how long have you had the vehicle? if it has been changed, when? How many miles/months?</p><p></p><p>What did you know and when did you know it? </p><p>Kidding about that part. <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>[YT]hopNAI8Pefg[/YT] </p><p></p><p>do you have one of those laser thermometers? If not, get one. get a measurement on both front rotors at the bottom of the mountain. Repeat. </p><p>Report back with results, or in the event of an unfortunate Raptor incident, have your next of kin update us. <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></p><p></p><p>what are the numbers? </p><p>The one I got from amazon was not expensive, and I’ve seen over 1100F on one of my suppressors. </p><p></p><p>The fronts are going to do most of the work, they’re taking the bulk of the load on any vehicle. On a bike, it’s 70-75% of your stopping power up front. you have a master cylinder with mere ounces of fluid, so if it’s old, it will boil faster and the lever consistency goes as does your brake effectiveness.</p><p></p><p>I think Ford is still - or was then for Jennifers, using the dot 3/4 fluid, but Ford’s brake fluid has a respectable boiling point. Yeah, you can get better, but bang for the buck the Ford brake fluid is legit. but if it’s old, is $hit.</p><p>I think it’s DOT 5.0 that is silicone based fluid (don’t quote me on this) that some vehicles use, it’s somewhat less susceptible to water absorption and it’s totally incompatible with 3/4 systems.</p><p></p><p>I’m going to slightly disagree with [MENTION=16341]J. Wolfe[/MENTION] </p><p>don’t change more than one thing at a time. </p><p></p><p>if you do fluid and it fixes the problem, [MENTION=1755]Aaron[/MENTION]’s your uncle and you’re done. </p><p>if you do both, and say you miss clearing the wheels and tires with the new line lock to lock at full suspension travel and let’s say you go marauding down the mountain and you start to lose brakes. </p><p></p><p>The first track day I went to I had the local stealership do lines and fluid for me and behold - one of my front tires was rubbing the new line at full lock and it wore through. On the street. </p><p></p><p>so yes, stainless lines will help feel, consistency and will last a long time, but I don’t think that’s the problem here.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="smurfslayer, post: 1277299, member: 21926"] Not to browbeat you... well, ok, it’s been a while since I participated in a real good interrogation. you didn’t answer the question about how old the brake fluid is. Has it ever been changed? If not, how long have you had the vehicle? if it has been changed, when? How many miles/months? What did you know and when did you know it? Kidding about that part. :biggrin: [YT]hopNAI8Pefg[/YT] do you have one of those laser thermometers? If not, get one. get a measurement on both front rotors at the bottom of the mountain. Repeat. Report back with results, or in the event of an unfortunate Raptor incident, have your next of kin update us. :biggrin: what are the numbers? The one I got from amazon was not expensive, and I’ve seen over 1100F on one of my suppressors. The fronts are going to do most of the work, they’re taking the bulk of the load on any vehicle. On a bike, it’s 70-75% of your stopping power up front. you have a master cylinder with mere ounces of fluid, so if it’s old, it will boil faster and the lever consistency goes as does your brake effectiveness. I think Ford is still - or was then for Jennifers, using the dot 3/4 fluid, but Ford’s brake fluid has a respectable boiling point. Yeah, you can get better, but bang for the buck the Ford brake fluid is legit. but if it’s old, is $hit. I think it’s DOT 5.0 that is silicone based fluid (don’t quote me on this) that some vehicles use, it’s somewhat less susceptible to water absorption and it’s totally incompatible with 3/4 systems. I’m going to slightly disagree with [MENTION=16341]J. Wolfe[/MENTION] don’t change more than one thing at a time. if you do fluid and it fixes the problem, [MENTION=1755]Aaron[/MENTION]’s your uncle and you’re done. if you do both, and say you miss clearing the wheels and tires with the new line lock to lock at full suspension travel and let’s say you go marauding down the mountain and you start to lose brakes. The first track day I went to I had the local stealership do lines and fluid for me and behold - one of my front tires was rubbing the new line at full lock and it wore through. On the street. so yes, stainless lines will help feel, consistency and will last a long time, but I don’t think that’s the problem here. [/QUOTE]
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Ford Raptor Forums - General Information
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brake issue
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