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Ford Raptor Forum Supporting Vendors
The Car Stereo Company
Alarming light bars
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<blockquote data-quote="The Car Stereo Company" data-source="post: 875801" data-attributes="member: 7124"><p>for a price......<span style="color: Red"></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"><span style="font-size: 9px">---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------</span></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"></span></p><p><span style="color: Red"></span>ok, so i actually had to open up the lightbars. what i did was solder an 18ga black wire to the ground side of the circuit board to each light.( it was a slight project on the rigid to get through the silicone they used to seal the wire hole) this means that the ground for the lights passes through to the new wire. so if the lightbar has ground (and as long as you never disconnect it, which we never do anyways) the wire had ground. i ran that wire to a relay (or you can use a low voltage trigger (like a tr7 which is basically a relay that draws less current) to trigger the alarm. on the relay, i used 85 and 86 as power and ground. one side connects to constant and the other side connects to the wire i put in the lightbar. (it doesnt matter which side goes where as long as there is power and ground) 87a goes to ground and 30 goes to the alarm. so what happens is when the lightbar is disconnected, wires cut, removed, whatever, the relay loses ground and turns off which then connects 87a and 30. (normally closed on a spdt relay) this completes the circuit sending ground to the alarm which will trigger the instant trigger...... and my train horns.....</p><p></p><p>on mine i did it slightly different. and a little more complicated. i used the ground when armed (orange wire on viper alarms) to an additional relay to trigger constant power for the other relays (one relay for each light) this allows the relays to be energized only when the system is armed. its just to reduce the strain of the relays so they arent on continuoous all the time and prolongs the life of the relay.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="The Car Stereo Company, post: 875801, member: 7124"] for a price......[COLOR="Red"] [SIZE=1]---------- Post added at 12:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:05 PM ----------[/SIZE] [/COLOR]ok, so i actually had to open up the lightbars. what i did was solder an 18ga black wire to the ground side of the circuit board to each light.( it was a slight project on the rigid to get through the silicone they used to seal the wire hole) this means that the ground for the lights passes through to the new wire. so if the lightbar has ground (and as long as you never disconnect it, which we never do anyways) the wire had ground. i ran that wire to a relay (or you can use a low voltage trigger (like a tr7 which is basically a relay that draws less current) to trigger the alarm. on the relay, i used 85 and 86 as power and ground. one side connects to constant and the other side connects to the wire i put in the lightbar. (it doesnt matter which side goes where as long as there is power and ground) 87a goes to ground and 30 goes to the alarm. so what happens is when the lightbar is disconnected, wires cut, removed, whatever, the relay loses ground and turns off which then connects 87a and 30. (normally closed on a spdt relay) this completes the circuit sending ground to the alarm which will trigger the instant trigger...... and my train horns..... on mine i did it slightly different. and a little more complicated. i used the ground when armed (orange wire on viper alarms) to an additional relay to trigger constant power for the other relays (one relay for each light) this allows the relays to be energized only when the system is armed. its just to reduce the strain of the relays so they arent on continuoous all the time and prolongs the life of the relay. [/QUOTE]
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Alarming light bars
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