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Adam's Polishes
Adam's Polishes Detailing Guide
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<blockquote data-quote="AdamsPolishes" data-source="post: 940153" data-attributes="member: 10587"><p><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: silver"><u>PART 3 - TIPS AND TRICKS</u></span></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size: 12px"><span style="color: silver"><em>Read and follow the directions on the bottles. Some of the products have specific application methods or techniques that makes using them easier and more effective.</em></span></span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><strong><span style="font-size: 12px"><em>Videos</em></span></strong> – Watch the instructional videos on <a href="http://adamspolishes.com/video" target="_blank">AdamsPolishes.com</a> and also on the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzpvSWz3VFZpeFeitVsybWg" target="_blank">Adam’s YouTube channel</a>. Getting great results with detailing is all about the details, and there is no easier way to learn methods and techniques than by watching a professional demonstrate their use and give additional tips.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Kits</strong></em></span> – These provide the greatest value compared to purchasing the products individually. Watch for sales to get additional discounts. You can also use the forum discount code when there is no current sale that has a better discount or promo.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>All Purpose Cleaner</strong></em></span> – Do not use on hot paint and never allow to dry on the surface. Can also be diluted for lighter cleaning needs.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Rinseless Wash</strong></em></span> – Concentrated washing and cleaning product that is mixed into water for a hose-less wash on dusty vehicles. Rinseless washing is not suitable for dirty or muddy trucks. This product can also be diluted for a spray-able cleaner which works as a Waterless Wash and also as a pre-treatment for bugs.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Dilutions</strong></em></span> – Many products can be diluted when full-strength is not needed. Use distilled water when making dilutions, as the minerals in the tap water can affect performance and storage. Some common dilutions are listed with the amount of distilled water being the larger number, and the amount of product being the smaller number:</span></p><p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver"><em><strong>All Purpose Cleaner</strong></em></span></p><p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">8:1 - delicate aluminum wheels or trim</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">4:1 - bug or tar pre-treatment, door sills, kick panels</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">1:1 - coated/painted wheels</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"></p></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver"><em><strong>Super VRT</strong></em></span></p><p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">1:1 – spray-on, low gloss tire dressing or bedliner dressing</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">2:1 – spray-on detailer for vinyl soft tops, tonneau covers</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">3:1 - quick detail spray dressing for protecting matte vinyl wraps</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"></p></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver"><em><strong>Rinseless Wash</strong></em></span></p><p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">16:1 - waterless washing spray</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">64:1 - clay lubricant</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">6:1 - pre-wash/pre-soak solution</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"></p></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver"><em><strong>Leather & Interior Cleaner</strong></em></span></p><p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">8:1 - delicate surface interior cleaning</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">3:1 - moderate soiling</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">1:1 - general coated leather cleaning (when no stains are present)</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"></p></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver"><em><strong>Deep Wheel Cleaner</strong></em></span></p><p style="margin-left: 20px"><span style="color: silver">1:1 - paint decontamination/removal of ferrous metal</span></p> <p style="margin-left: 20px"></p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><em><strong><span style="font-size: 12px">Tires Stains</span></strong></em> – Heavily oxidized or mud stained tires can be a challenge to clean and often take a few weekly washes to get completely clean. Scrub with Tire & Rubber Cleaner and a stiff brush. For stains that do not come out all the way, dress with Super VRT as it will soak into the rubber and help work the stains out the next time you wash. Once the tires are clean and stain-free, use Tire Shine to seal up the rubber to prevent further mud staining. If Tire Shine is too glossy for you, use Super VRT as your dressing, but it will not last as long as Tire Shine. </span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Floor Mats</strong></em></span> – Blast the mud and dirt off with a hose or pressure washer, scrub with All Purpose Cleaner, rinse well and allow to dry before putting them back into the truck. For some additional protection and to make cleaning easier, you can dress them with any of the interior products. Super VRT will be very slippery, Total Interior Detailer not as slippery, and Leather Conditioner seems to provide the most protection without being too slippery. LINK TO WRITEUP</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Glass</strong></em></span> – Use two glass-specific towels for cleaning glass. Spray the glass cleaner directly onto one towel to avoid overspray on adjacent surfaces, and use this towel to clean the glass. Then use the dry towel to buff off any residue, leaving a streak-free surface.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Interior Products</strong></em></span> – It is often better to spray the product only on the towel, rather than spraying directly onto a surface. This prevents overspray onto adjacent surfaces, like the glass, and it also prevents excess product from ending up in the cracks, nooks and crannies where it is hard to remove and can attract and hold dust and dirt. Any surface that is cleaned should be dressed or conditioned with Total Interior Detailer or Leather Conditioner.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Layering Protection</strong></em></span> – The different sealants and waxes can be layered for additional protection and enhancement. Always put the longest lasting product on first, which is typically a sealant. With a base layer of Liquid Paint Sealant for maximum protection, a second layer of wax will add additional enhancement and some additional protection. Any product applied over a shorter-duration product will only typically last as long as the product under it. For example, a sealant applied over a wax will only last as long as the wax. Likewise, any sealant or wax applied on top of glaze will only last a few weeks or washes. Sealants offer the longest protection since they actually bond to the paint. A wax only sits on top of the paint, it does not bond. H2O Guard & Gloss can be used as a primary sealant, and applied every 1-2 months, or it can be used as a booster to Liquid Paint Sealant and even the waxes, to provide additional longevity to these products.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Dedicated Towels</strong></em></span> – It is good practice to dedicate your microfiber towels to specific tasks and/or areas. A plush towel used for polishing or protecting paint should not be used on your wheels, as it can pick up contamination that may not wash out, and then cause damage to the paint. Have dedicated towels that are used for drying the exterior and then other towels for drying wheels and door jambs. Use dedicated towels for the interior, and only clean the glass with the dedicated glass towels. To make this easy for tasks that do not have a specific towel like the glass cleaning towels, choose different colors for different tasks and areas. For example, use the Great White Drying towels for the exterior, then use the blue Waterless Wash towels for drying the wheels and door jambs.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Dedicated Applicators</strong></em></span> – Certain pads and applicators are designed for a specific task, and the foam is different. For example, the foam machine polishing pads are the same colors as the products they are to be used with; orange or correcting and white for finishing, and these foam pads have different levels of cut. Likewise, the blue Revive Hand Polish is used with the Blue Hex Grip Applicator. For some applicators, this means the foam is different and meant for that specific task. For other applicators, the different colors are meant to make it easy to dedicate those applicators to the products, so there are no cross-contamination issues. For example, the Liquid Paint Sealant is harder to remove from the applicator, and you would not want to use that applicator for applying wax the next time. For any product that does not have a specific, color-coded applicator, use a Sharpie to mark on the back with which product you will be using it for and then only use it for that product. For example, you would not want to use a microfiber pad to apply Leather Conditioner to your seats if you last used it with Liquid Paint Sealant. Just washing won’t always remove 100% of the previous product.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Storing Products</strong></em></span> – Most of the products can be affected or ruined by extreme temperatures. Avoid temps below 40F and above 85F. Store less frequently used products like polishes, sealants and waxes indoors in a cooler area out of sunlight. Also store all gallon refills indoors, or in a climate controlled garage. Paste waxes can be stored for long periods in the refrigerator. Do not leave products in your car during the winter or summer, as they will be damaged by the extreme temperatures and can also leave a mess if the bottles break.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Washing Towels</strong></em></span> – Always use a microfiber-specific detergent for cleaning towels. A regular laundry detergent may work on un-soiled drying towels, but any towels that are used with polishes, waxes, sealants or other cleaning and protection products need to have a higher-strength cleaner to break these products down and return your towels to a completely clean condition, ready for the next use. Many people have used regular laundry detergent and then end up posting about a problem with a product not working right or getting streaky results. This is often a case of the towel not being cleaned properly, so that the products build-up in the microfiber, and cause issues like not being as absorbent and leaving streaks of old product. This can also be an issue with towels that are washed together and get cross-contamination. For example, a glass cleaning towel that is only used on glass ends up leaving streaks because it is contaminated with polish or sealant that came from another towel in the wash load and did not get completely clean because the regular laundry detergent was not strong enough to completely clean the towels.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Least Aggressive First</strong></em></span> – Always try the least aggressive product or method to address a situation. It is not always necessary to use some of the more aggressive products to accomplish a more basic task. For example, the Leather & Interior Cleaner is a strong cleaner; it is not for light cleaning or simple dusting. If this product were to be used on the leather seats every single week, it can lead to premature wearing of the leather. If the surface is just dusty or lightly soiled, vacuum first then use a damp cloth or some Total Interior Detailer. Another example is the wheels. As long as the wheels are sealed and only lightly to moderately dirty, cleaning with Car Wash Shampoo may be all that is needed for a regular maintenance wash. Only use Deep Wheel Cleaner when there is a heavy build-up of metallic brake dust, and only use All Purpose Cleaner when they are really grimy. This saves you money by not using the more expensive products each time, and also leaves your wheel sealant intact. Since both of these products will strip the sealant off the wheels, re-apply after using them.</span></p><p> </p><p><span style="font-size: 10px"><span style="color: silver"><span style="font-size: 12px"><em><strong>Machine Polishing</strong></em></span> – Avoid polishing on hard edges, the paint in these areas is thin and could be damaged by aggressive polishing. Badges and emblems can have sharp edges which will ruin your pads, stay clear of these areas. Painters tape can be used to mask off vinyl graphics, trim, or anything else you want to avoid hitting with the polisher. Never use a more aggressive method than needed to get the job done. Always work a test area to figure out the process first, don't do the entire car and realize you didn't get the result you wanted. Once the pad is primed with polish, only add a few pea sized drops with each new section. Polishes are always easier to work with in moderate temperature, work in shade whenever possible. Be patient! Machine polishing takes time to master and practice makes perfect!</span></span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AdamsPolishes, post: 940153, member: 10587"] [SIZE=4][SIZE=4][COLOR=silver][U]PART 3 - TIPS AND TRICKS[/U][/COLOR][/SIZE][/SIZE] [SIZE=3][COLOR=silver][I]Read and follow the directions on the bottles. Some of the products have specific application methods or techniques that makes using them easier and more effective.[/I][/COLOR][/SIZE] [COLOR=silver][B][SIZE=3][I]Videos[/I][/SIZE][/B] – Watch the instructional videos on [URL="http://adamspolishes.com/video"]AdamsPolishes.com[/URL] and also on the [URL="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzpvSWz3VFZpeFeitVsybWg"]Adam’s YouTube channel[/URL]. Getting great results with detailing is all about the details, and there is no easier way to learn methods and techniques than by watching a professional demonstrate their use and give additional tips.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Kits[/B][/I][/SIZE] – These provide the greatest value compared to purchasing the products individually. Watch for sales to get additional discounts. You can also use the forum discount code when there is no current sale that has a better discount or promo.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]All Purpose Cleaner[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Do not use on hot paint and never allow to dry on the surface. Can also be diluted for lighter cleaning needs.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Rinseless Wash[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Concentrated washing and cleaning product that is mixed into water for a hose-less wash on dusty vehicles. Rinseless washing is not suitable for dirty or muddy trucks. This product can also be diluted for a spray-able cleaner which works as a Waterless Wash and also as a pre-treatment for bugs.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Dilutions[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Many products can be diluted when full-strength is not needed. Use distilled water when making dilutions, as the minerals in the tap water can affect performance and storage. Some common dilutions are listed with the amount of distilled water being the larger number, and the amount of product being the smaller number:[/COLOR] [INDENT][COLOR=silver][I][B]All Purpose Cleaner[/B][/I][/COLOR] [INDENT][COLOR=silver]8:1 - delicate aluminum wheels or trim[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]4:1 - bug or tar pre-treatment, door sills, kick panels[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]1:1 - coated/painted wheels[/COLOR] [/INDENT][COLOR=silver][I][B]Super VRT[/B][/I][/COLOR] [INDENT][COLOR=silver]1:1 – spray-on, low gloss tire dressing or bedliner dressing[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]2:1 – spray-on detailer for vinyl soft tops, tonneau covers[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]3:1 - quick detail spray dressing for protecting matte vinyl wraps[/COLOR] [/INDENT][COLOR=silver][I][B]Rinseless Wash[/B][/I][/COLOR] [INDENT][COLOR=silver]16:1 - waterless washing spray[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]64:1 - clay lubricant[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]6:1 - pre-wash/pre-soak solution[/COLOR] [/INDENT][COLOR=silver][I][B]Leather & Interior Cleaner[/B][/I][/COLOR] [INDENT][COLOR=silver]8:1 - delicate surface interior cleaning[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]3:1 - moderate soiling[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver]1:1 - general coated leather cleaning (when no stains are present)[/COLOR] [/INDENT][COLOR=silver][I][B]Deep Wheel Cleaner[/B][/I][/COLOR] [INDENT][COLOR=silver]1:1 - paint decontamination/removal of ferrous metal[/COLOR] [/INDENT][/INDENT][COLOR=silver][I][B][SIZE=3]Tires Stains[/SIZE][/B][/I] – Heavily oxidized or mud stained tires can be a challenge to clean and often take a few weekly washes to get completely clean. Scrub with Tire & Rubber Cleaner and a stiff brush. For stains that do not come out all the way, dress with Super VRT as it will soak into the rubber and help work the stains out the next time you wash. Once the tires are clean and stain-free, use Tire Shine to seal up the rubber to prevent further mud staining. If Tire Shine is too glossy for you, use Super VRT as your dressing, but it will not last as long as Tire Shine. [/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Floor Mats[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Blast the mud and dirt off with a hose or pressure washer, scrub with All Purpose Cleaner, rinse well and allow to dry before putting them back into the truck. For some additional protection and to make cleaning easier, you can dress them with any of the interior products. Super VRT will be very slippery, Total Interior Detailer not as slippery, and Leather Conditioner seems to provide the most protection without being too slippery. LINK TO WRITEUP[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Glass[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Use two glass-specific towels for cleaning glass. Spray the glass cleaner directly onto one towel to avoid overspray on adjacent surfaces, and use this towel to clean the glass. Then use the dry towel to buff off any residue, leaving a streak-free surface.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Interior Products[/B][/I][/SIZE] – It is often better to spray the product only on the towel, rather than spraying directly onto a surface. This prevents overspray onto adjacent surfaces, like the glass, and it also prevents excess product from ending up in the cracks, nooks and crannies where it is hard to remove and can attract and hold dust and dirt. Any surface that is cleaned should be dressed or conditioned with Total Interior Detailer or Leather Conditioner.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Layering Protection[/B][/I][/SIZE] – The different sealants and waxes can be layered for additional protection and enhancement. Always put the longest lasting product on first, which is typically a sealant. With a base layer of Liquid Paint Sealant for maximum protection, a second layer of wax will add additional enhancement and some additional protection. Any product applied over a shorter-duration product will only typically last as long as the product under it. For example, a sealant applied over a wax will only last as long as the wax. Likewise, any sealant or wax applied on top of glaze will only last a few weeks or washes. Sealants offer the longest protection since they actually bond to the paint. A wax only sits on top of the paint, it does not bond. H2O Guard & Gloss can be used as a primary sealant, and applied every 1-2 months, or it can be used as a booster to Liquid Paint Sealant and even the waxes, to provide additional longevity to these products.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Dedicated Towels[/B][/I][/SIZE] – It is good practice to dedicate your microfiber towels to specific tasks and/or areas. A plush towel used for polishing or protecting paint should not be used on your wheels, as it can pick up contamination that may not wash out, and then cause damage to the paint. Have dedicated towels that are used for drying the exterior and then other towels for drying wheels and door jambs. Use dedicated towels for the interior, and only clean the glass with the dedicated glass towels. To make this easy for tasks that do not have a specific towel like the glass cleaning towels, choose different colors for different tasks and areas. For example, use the Great White Drying towels for the exterior, then use the blue Waterless Wash towels for drying the wheels and door jambs.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Dedicated Applicators[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Certain pads and applicators are designed for a specific task, and the foam is different. For example, the foam machine polishing pads are the same colors as the products they are to be used with; orange or correcting and white for finishing, and these foam pads have different levels of cut. Likewise, the blue Revive Hand Polish is used with the Blue Hex Grip Applicator. For some applicators, this means the foam is different and meant for that specific task. For other applicators, the different colors are meant to make it easy to dedicate those applicators to the products, so there are no cross-contamination issues. For example, the Liquid Paint Sealant is harder to remove from the applicator, and you would not want to use that applicator for applying wax the next time. For any product that does not have a specific, color-coded applicator, use a Sharpie to mark on the back with which product you will be using it for and then only use it for that product. For example, you would not want to use a microfiber pad to apply Leather Conditioner to your seats if you last used it with Liquid Paint Sealant. Just washing won’t always remove 100% of the previous product.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Storing Products[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Most of the products can be affected or ruined by extreme temperatures. Avoid temps below 40F and above 85F. Store less frequently used products like polishes, sealants and waxes indoors in a cooler area out of sunlight. Also store all gallon refills indoors, or in a climate controlled garage. Paste waxes can be stored for long periods in the refrigerator. Do not leave products in your car during the winter or summer, as they will be damaged by the extreme temperatures and can also leave a mess if the bottles break.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Washing Towels[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Always use a microfiber-specific detergent for cleaning towels. A regular laundry detergent may work on un-soiled drying towels, but any towels that are used with polishes, waxes, sealants or other cleaning and protection products need to have a higher-strength cleaner to break these products down and return your towels to a completely clean condition, ready for the next use. Many people have used regular laundry detergent and then end up posting about a problem with a product not working right or getting streaky results. This is often a case of the towel not being cleaned properly, so that the products build-up in the microfiber, and cause issues like not being as absorbent and leaving streaks of old product. This can also be an issue with towels that are washed together and get cross-contamination. For example, a glass cleaning towel that is only used on glass ends up leaving streaks because it is contaminated with polish or sealant that came from another towel in the wash load and did not get completely clean because the regular laundry detergent was not strong enough to completely clean the towels.[/COLOR] [COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Least Aggressive First[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Always try the least aggressive product or method to address a situation. It is not always necessary to use some of the more aggressive products to accomplish a more basic task. For example, the Leather & Interior Cleaner is a strong cleaner; it is not for light cleaning or simple dusting. If this product were to be used on the leather seats every single week, it can lead to premature wearing of the leather. If the surface is just dusty or lightly soiled, vacuum first then use a damp cloth or some Total Interior Detailer. Another example is the wheels. As long as the wheels are sealed and only lightly to moderately dirty, cleaning with Car Wash Shampoo may be all that is needed for a regular maintenance wash. Only use Deep Wheel Cleaner when there is a heavy build-up of metallic brake dust, and only use All Purpose Cleaner when they are really grimy. This saves you money by not using the more expensive products each time, and also leaves your wheel sealant intact. Since both of these products will strip the sealant off the wheels, re-apply after using them.[/COLOR] [SIZE=2][COLOR=silver][SIZE=3][I][B]Machine Polishing[/B][/I][/SIZE] – Avoid polishing on hard edges, the paint in these areas is thin and could be damaged by aggressive polishing. Badges and emblems can have sharp edges which will ruin your pads, stay clear of these areas. Painters tape can be used to mask off vinyl graphics, trim, or anything else you want to avoid hitting with the polisher. Never use a more aggressive method than needed to get the job done. Always work a test area to figure out the process first, don't do the entire car and realize you didn't get the result you wanted. Once the pad is primed with polish, only add a few pea sized drops with each new section. Polishes are always easier to work with in moderate temperature, work in shade whenever possible. Be patient! Machine polishing takes time to master and practice makes perfect![/COLOR][/SIZE] [/QUOTE]
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