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I totally agree, I hate push button starts. I really enjoy the action of putting in the key and turning it. That said, the ignition on the Raptor is electronic, you can just twist it real quick and let go and the engine will continue to turn over till it catches.

Wired it up the way I said and it turned out alright. Like I said, not really the most efficient way to wire it but it works the way I want it to. In case anyone else ever gets interested to do it this way: the Rigid Industries wiring harness is not the best documented... if you're going to cut...

I think the simplest way to do it is to use the upfitter switch as the power source for since it's already fused and relayed. Then I'll use that to power the wiring harness that came with the Rigid Dually's. Then instead of using a switch with the lights, I'll tap that off the high beam wire at...

That's how I want to control the new Dually's on the A-pillar. That way, when I'm using them on the road, I only need to turn off the high beams to have them shut off as well.

So from what I've read and can see from flipping the switches, the upfitter switches only rely on a switched source for their relay. Has anyone made one work off the high beam rather than just a switched 12v? If there's no easy way, I think I'm just going to use the upfitter output as the 12v...

You make it yourself? Looks well done.

That's mostly what I was asking. I haven't gotten far enough in my planning process to figure it out myself. Looks like 2x6 box and a lot of plate... Probably all 1/4". Am I close?

That would be sweet! Like I said, I've been planning on phabbing it up for a while but hadn't put much thought into materials yet. Mostly just been checking out pictures from the different people. I like yours, looks great!

Awesome. I'm glad someone decided to make one at home! I've been thinking about the idea for months but haven't gotten around to pulling out the tape measure yet. Any chance you have some drawings or a parts/cut list to save me some time?

Nothing, you can't push it forward. I had to double check because he freaked me out but it's always been back for high beams. You pull about halfway back for the pass and all the way back switches to high beams. Do it again to turn them off. That's the way it's worked for the past five...

Yea, I double checked on my way home. I'm not crazy and I do still know how to work my lights. They just don't work right.

I don't think I just forgot how to use the high beams. Maybe I did, I was just driving a rental car for a week. I need to check this as soon as I get out of work. I really hope they changed something between '10 and '12, because otherwise I just lost my mind.

So maybe this question should go in the 'Problems' forum but I figured I'd throw it in the 'Lighting' one since it's more specific. Last night my high beam switch quit working properly. It pulls back like normal, the high beams come on just fine, dash indicator as well, and then when I let...

This is the kind of stuff I mean. I've read a lot of claims about cryogenic treatments improving metal in all kinds of ways but no one has any data to prove it from what I've seen. I haven't seen any data to prove you wrong either. It just doesn't make any sense to me. As I mentioned before...

Do you have any evidence to support this? I would have to disagree. You'd be right if all stress came from thermal reasons but what about things like phase transformations? For example: we carburize parts. That means that the surfaces have more carbon and are therefore harder than the cores...

Yea, pretty much everything we do at work is aerospace stuff and we still never use real cryo. Like I said, there are a lot of claims on it about stuff like super fine eta-carbides helping with fatigue life. We don't use any of it making bearings that are supposed to last as long as possible so...

First: I don't have any idea what the stock spindles are (material/ heat treat). Without knowing that, it's hard to say what will help or not. If someone could send a piece of a spindle to either me or Donk, we could probably tell you. Second: 'Cryo' comes in two different forms really...

Me? No way. I'm no expert at it for sure. I can get an idea of carbon content from what I learned in welding classes but that's about it. I know there are some serious pros who can tell you a ton though. I remember reading that they'd done studies and had people who were accurate to +/-0.05%...

Ha! I do the exact same job at a bearing company up here in New Hampshire. I love the stuff, steel and heat treating is super cool.

Spark test will tell you the carbon content and give you an idea what alloying is in there. I'd bet they're just mild steel though. In which case you have to worry more about the 4130 you're welding to the mild steel spindle. Either way, I doubt it's really too far beyond the average garage...

A36 is actually a pretty wide open spec as I recall and not a great way to describe the material. Still, 4340 and 300M are both a lot stronger than mild steel ~1020... at least when heat treated. Comparison of UTS: A36 = ~60ksi 4340 = ~240ksi (800F temper) 300M = ~280ksi (600F temper)...

Don't get me wrong. I'm certainly not trying to say that you're selling a bad product. I totally understand where you're coming from, I understand the engineering and overhead involved and amortizing design work over large and small production runs. Believe me, I'm a heat treating engineer...

Sounds good. Much like my Super 44 actually.

I honestly can't believe tie-rods for these trucks cost so much. There's very little involved in them if you can get access to a mill. When I priced out doing it for my truck (I haven't got around to it yet) I think I was under $100 in materials.

What's different about the bearings? Is that really the only difference or are any of the hardparts different as well? I'm interested in the bearing situation, I'll see if I can get any help sourcing new ones. I'm assuming they're a tapered roller bearing but I've only ever pulled apart one...