I have yet to actually have them hit anything yet. I’ve gone a few places where the stock boards got hung up and these never hit anything. In terms of strength though I’ve jacked the truck up and supported it multiple times using the sliders without any problems. Paired with Foutz skids and diff...
It was about $400 for install. Not 100% sure in the weight but I’m sure they’re more than stock since they’re chromoly. If I had to guess I’d say maybe 40lbs per side. On a truck I’m of the opinion that the amount of weight added by a modification like this doesn’t have as large an impact as it...
I have some good glare like anybody would get with A-Pillar lights. I had “regular” pods on my pillar for a little while before I got my side shooters and I don’t think there is anymore glare than before with them personally. Here’s a photo to give an idea to the amount of glare I have.
Now...
I have the SDHQ and Rigid DSS combo as well and there’s no way I would get rid of it. The amount of light in all directions is insane and almost makes my bumper setup useless in certain situations. Aiming is key of course but I think that with any hood mount light your going to have some hood...
Well it sounds like you have it all figured out already and since you have a Gen 1 that you haven’t even driven yet I’m not entirely sure what you were looking for out of an answer. Have fun on your trip! When I picked mine up I drove it on a cross country road trip home and it was a blast!
Im going to assume based off your profile picture that you have a Gen 1. The stock tire on a Gen 1 is load range D and your door sill recommendation is for a load range D. On Gen 2 the recommended tire pressure is 38 PSI on load range C tires. Since the load range E has a stiffer sidewall than...
When I switched to E rated KO2s last year BFGoodrich said I was fine running anything between 32 and 38 PSI on the road. I found 34 front and 32 rear to be the best for me. I know it’s not the same tire but thought it might be a good reference for others. 60 PSI on a half ton is way to much for...
The light within the glovebox works as it should. The light ambient light above the glove box does not. The interesting part is that I went ahead and check the #1 fuse just to see and found that there wasn’t even one there. What confuses me though is that all of the other systems that are tied...
So I noticed that my ambient lighting stopped working sometime last week. It honestly could have been longer but I didn’t notice it until then. I’ve checked Forscan and find this in the DTCs. Anybody know where the actual ground might be for me to check or something else I should look at?
It was confirmed by Mike Levine at Ford that the 19 shocks aren’t backwards compatible. Even if you got all of the addition hardware required it wouldn’t work with anything from a 17 or 18 in terms of hardware and/or coding. You’d have to redo your entire truck.
They look like the ICON Alloy Compression in Satin black but with Hennessey’s name on them for double the price.
http://iconvehicledynamics.com/shop/3745-large/compression-17-satin-black-finish.jpg
A picture would help us better understand what you mean but if it’s as I suspect you are most likely just seeing the built up oils left from your hands. Some leather cleaner and a stiff bristle brush should clean it up nicely.
Maybe I’m missing something here but how did that get the Rigid logo on the SR-ms to be facing the correct way. On mine they are upside down. I sincerely apologize if I’m missing something obvious here.
Here’s a picture of what I’m talking about.
I can’t speak to which perch collars puts the truck out of ride height and which don’t. I will say though that if 2.5 inches takes the shock out of the optimal ride zone then a lot of people have messed up putting on +2.5”collars or Geisers.
On the Eibach front, I’ve been running the Eibach...
There had been rumors that Eibach had redesigned the spring and lowered the spring rate for a softer ride. If the rumor is true maybe they didn’t bother to update their website. I’m not entirely sure but it might be something to investigate further.
I’d also look at Foutz Motorsports. They have a couple of different options you can choose from. For reference these are the guys who ran the Raptor in Baja for Ford.
If you went to their site, Instagram, or Facebook page you would see they have posted multiple pictures of them installed on a few different trucks.
https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections/17-current-ford-raptor-fiberglass
My spare is a load range E. I checked when I purchased new tires to verify. Others on here have said their spare was an E range as well. I wonder though if it has something to do with beadlocks vs non. I had the standard non-beadlock capable wheel from the factory. Maybe it makes a difference or...
I assume your still on stock tires in which case you might want to check the load rating of your spare. Mine was E rated while the stock tires are C rated. If they are different it might affect the ride slightly because only one of your four tires will be stiffer.
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