Upper control arm question

Sick of alignment issues with the lower arms. Gonna make those pivot points solid and get a set of aftermarket uppers. Am I going to be able to have enough adjustment in the heims on the uppers to get the truck aligned? I would assume I install upper arms with the heims in the middle of the adjustment range then get the truck aligned as usual on the lower sliders. At that point I weld the washers in on the lowers?


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Do be aware that some of the aftermarket uppers require the bolts be pulled to turn the heims for alignment. I have an idea about which ones are easily adjusted on the truck, but I'm not 100%.... I am guessing most alignment shops aren't going to want to pull the shocks to align it... Do your research beforehand.

Yes I am aware of this. I'm hoping that with getting rid of the slots on the lower control arms I won't knock it out of alignment every other day. Set it once and be done other than bending parts or toe in/out adjustment


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Do you have the alignment cam kit? Maybe I'm the exception but I just had my alignment checked after 2 years and 5 Raptor Runs and everything was still spot on. Couple times a year I retorque the LCA bolts.

No I do not maybe should look into that before I go the upper control route. Where did you get yours from?


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Madcowranch said:

Couple times a year I retorque the LCA bolts.

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This is key information. Most shops don't get anywhere close to the required 250 ft-lbs needed to keep the lower bolts tight. Make sure they put a torque wrench on it.

str8fast said:

No I do not maybe should look into that before I go the upper control route. Where did you get yours from?


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Man, it's been so long ago, I can't remember. SDHQ maybe?

Yes that is the theory. The only ones that I am aware of that allow adjustment while on the truck is ICON and SVC (I think). I have Rogue because it works with stock wheels, those other two do not. If you look on Rogue's website for the install instructions they give how many turn outs need to be done on the UCA then do the alignment and use slot deletes to permanently lock it in place or weld in your case. I would recommend upgrading the knuckles to a gussetted one or an aftermarket one. If not, a slightly bent knuckle will be more difficult to correct if you have things welded/permanently done.

I always love how doing one mod that seems like no big deal leads to modding the next thing and continues as our bank accounts funds these endeavors.

---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------

I got the alignment cam kit from Amazon. The common one is from Speciality Products if I recall. SDHQ I believe has an even better kit that reinforces the LCA and provides longer bolts.

---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 PM ----------

Here you go!

http://store.sdhqoffroad.com/lowera-armdoublerplates.aspx

I have a questions slightly related to this also. Upgrading UCAs and I've heard some say you can remove them without pulling the shock. but I've heard more people say you gotta pull the shock first. Just by eyeballing it, I don't see how I can remove the UCA without pulling the shock. Can anyone tell me "yes you can only remove the arm and not the shock because I've done it" or is this all some urban legend

svt_reid said:

I have a questions slightly related to this also. Upgrading UCAs and I've heard some say you can remove them without pulling the shock. but I've heard more people say you gotta pull the shock first. Just by eyeballing it, I don't see how I can remove the UCA without pulling the shock. Can anyone tell me "yes you can only remove the arm and not the shock because I've done it" or is this all some urban legend

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You still have to remove the top shock bolts to be able to drop the shock enough to get the UCA bolts out. I just did it. BUT, It's a bitch. It'd be easier just to go ahead and remove the lower shock bolt.