Upgraded IWE

Wilson said:

can anyone explain why the electric clutch would not work. or would the IWE brake anyhow because it's week? if it locks in and stays in when in and out when out would it still brake?

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Out it won't break in maybe.

The main reason I wanted to get ARBs is so I didn't have to worry about it kicking in and out... Which to me is when this is going to break. I don't run ORM and never liked it. If you run ORM no problem it stays in. I think some people looked into just hooking up the e-locker direct but something about the current after it is locked in is needed to drop but not completely or the solenoid will burn up. Dont know exactly and haven't looked into it all the way yet, but thats my next step.

I have been looking into electric clutches like wilson suggested. Everything "off the shelf" would not work due to size and location of IWE. There is only about an inch of space under the IWE cover and less with the 1/4" locking ring.

The reason a suggested an electric locker instead of torsen is because I was planning on fully locking the hub to the axle with a splined collar the is twice as thick as current IWE locking collar. This would allow me to use the same 4wd system (open diff) in 2010-2011 without gimpy IWE setup. But still give me the ability if needed to lock all diffs to get out of Netix deep mud.. You can not use this set up with front diff locked on the roads/hard pack it will destroy diff and hubs (be a bitch to turn).

Using current IWE setup with an electric locker would increase the life of IWE because you wouldn't be shock loading (wearing) the teeth needlessly (just like 2010-2011). And only when you get stuck and need true 4wd you could lock all the diffs..


I looked into arb (air) locker also, but eaton and auburn electric lockers seem simpler solution.

Hope this way you can have the best of both world reliability of 2010-11 4wd system and true 4wd like 2012-13 without all the problems

-Greg (aka squatting dog)

I was starting to think I didn't know any thing

Killing time and looked at F250 4x4 SuperCab with short box 6.7L Powerstroke diesel and

It had and I was told by salesman that all F250 4x4 come with 4x4 on the fly select from cab and

MANUAL LOCKING HUBS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What gives?

I seen that too but I did get mine all fixed up. I just don't plan on putting the hammer down on dry dirt aegean.

Wilson said:

I seen that too but I did get mine all fixed up. I just don't plan on putting the hammer down on dry dirt aegean.

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Could you expand - "I did get mine all fixed up."

Thanks in advance

For you guys asking why don't we do simple modifications you really need to look at a diagram or schematic of the raptor IWE and spindle. The design is completely different than the F250. If an aftermarket solution was easy to make it would've already been done. I have a 2012 raptor with Toreson diff. I have replaced the front hubs and actuators at least three times. This problem existed day one from when I got the vehicle. It now has long travel suspension and still has the same problem. Just last week I replaced the hub and actuator on the driver side because they were slipping. With the new parts I immediately had four-wheel-drive disengagement problems on the same side with the brand-new parts. This was on a mild Hillclimb in four-wheel-drive.

The Torsen diff Is a cluster **** for the raptor. Ford should recall them and replace the front diffs. They sold us a defective product and a ****** design.

Shame on Ford and SVT for not dealing with this engineering debacle.

I think Greg's solution of creating a permanent locked hub may be the easy way to go. My only concern is eating CV joints and CV boots constantly.

At this point I can't trust the four-wheel-drive system on my Ford raptor and it for all intents and purposes is a 2 Wheel Drive vehicle when it comes to hard-core backcountry offloading. You can't trust the ford raptor. You'll get stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Obviously this issue has been pissing me off a bit. I have two Ford raptors. A 2011 and 2012 with Torsen diff. I have also had to replace the hubs and actuators on the 2011 raptor. But only once. I have had to replace them on the 2012 raptor three times. The 2012 only has 9000 miles on it. The IWE is a ******* joke.

I haven't had any problems with mine and I am close to 17, 000 miles.

M1919A2 said:

Killing time and looked at F250 4x4 SuperCab with short box 6.7L Powerstroke diesel and

It had and I was told by salesman that all F250 4x4 come with 4x4 on the fly select from cab and

MANUAL LOCKING HUBS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What gives?

Click to expand...

A solid front axel offers a lot more flexibility. Yes the Superdutys have shift on the fly (wouldn't do it over 20 mph though) and manual locking hubs. The Superduty vacuum system that is used to engage the shift on the fly sucks about as bad as ours. The vacuum system actuators are constantly going out (leaking) and they put a little vacuum tube right next to the knuckle where anything and everything can hit it and tear it or knock it off. I believe they put the manual hubs on there just in case you were out in BFE, you could flip them into 4 wheel drive or if your system wont disengage you could manually pull them out. And a solid axel will never ride like an IFS truck. It is not always greener on the other side.

I still say electric is the way to go. look at the new kinze planters dust mud and all kinds of crap get's on a planter.