Shock rebuild prep question

Ratpatator · Apr 12, 2018

I'm planning on trying out a shock rebuild myself. Seems pretty straight forward but i haven't seen any thing on cubic feet/inches of nitrogen that will be needed to pressurize each shock to full pressure. I just don't want to run out in the middle of everything.

Does anyone know what that value is or does it vary on each shock?

Also i am planning on using the bottle to keep track and repressure the shocks as maintenance.

Can i just bleed off all the nitrogen to install a Schrader valve and then pressurize them back up or would i be better off to just use the needle for now and do the Schrader valve with the next rebuild?

BenBB · Apr 12, 2018

Ratpatator said:
I'm planning on trying out a shock rebuild myself. Seems pretty straight forward but i haven't seen any thing on cubic feet/inches of nitrogen that will be needed to pressurize each shock to full pressure. I just don't want to run out in the middle of everything.

Does anyone know what that value is or does it vary on each shock?

Also i am planning on using the bottle to keep track and repressure the shocks as maintenance.

Can i just bleed off all the nitrogen to install a Schrader valve and then pressurize them back up or would i be better off to just use the needle for now and do the Schrader valve with the next rebuild?

It doesn't take much nitrogen, the volume on the fronts is like the size of a coke can. I think somewhere in the DIY thread @m3dragon said you could do several sets (of four) shocks with a 10-15lb. cylinder (if I remember right).

Yes you can just bleed and install the schrader, well worth doing in my opinion but I hate needles in general :evillol:

I used red loctite on the threads, couldn't find any info anywhere about that, will see how that works. But the lossless chuck is a must-have and the schraders beat the hell out of the needle setup...

Ratpatator · Apr 12, 2018

BenBB said:
It doesn't take much nitrogen, the volume on the fronts is like the size of a coke can. I think somewhere in the DIY thread @m3dragon said you could do several sets (of four) shocks with a 10-15lb. cylinder (if I remember right).

Yes you can just bleed and install the schrader, well worth doing in my opinion but I hate needles in general I used red loctite on the threads, couldn't find any info anywhere about that, will see how that works. But the lossless chuck is a must-have and the schraders beat the hell out of the needle setup...

Very cool thank you. Ill have to look at that thread.

One other thing on the Schrader valve. Is the hole in the shock body threaded or do i have to do that? Somewhere i read that you have to tap the hole your self.

BenBB · Apr 12, 2018

Ratpatator said:
Very cool thank you. Ill have to look at that thread.

One other thing on the Schrader valve. Is the hole in the shock body threaded or do i have to do that? Somewhere i read that you have to tap the hole your self.

No problem! yes the hole is threaded and if you get the schraders from Forged you don't have to drill or tap anything, just remove the white plastic plug (pain in the ass) and there's an allen plug with a hole in the center; this is where you stab the needle to vent the nitrogen. Once the nitrogen is out, remove said plug (around 1/4" hex not sure exactly which allen key I used) and use a pick to drag the black rubber pellet out. Then thread the schrader in there.

There are a couple out there for sale online that yes you do have to drill & tap the holes (presumably for a commonly available schrader thread pitch & taper), one place I saw sold new caps for the rears that were already drilled & tapped and had a schrader in it, don't remember the price on them but I think they were more than what Forged charges for theirs ($20). They appear to be a bolt thread though so no taper to seal the threads, hence why I went with loctite.

m3dragon · Apr 12, 2018

PM me if needed for cell. Already shock tech support for the forum it seems LOL

Ratpatator · Apr 12, 2018

BenBB said:
No problem! yes the hole is threaded and if you get the schraders from Forged you don't have to drill or tap anything, just remove the white plastic plug (pain in the ass) and there's an allen plug with a hole in the center; this is where you stab the needle to vent the nitrogen. Once the nitrogen is out, remove said plug (around 1/4" hex not sure exactly which allen key I used) and use a pick to drag the black rubber pellet out. Then thread the schrader in there.

There are a couple out there for sale online that yes you do have to drill & tap the holes (presumably for a commonly available schrader thread pitch & taper), one place I saw sold new caps for the rears that were already drilled & tapped and had a schrader in it, don't remember the price on them but I think they were more than what Forged charges for theirs ($20). They appear to be a bolt thread though so no taper to seal the threads, hence why I went with loctite.

You say there are different ones ? I'm assuming just the side that treads into the shock would be different the side you fill from will all be the same right. So any nitrogen fill gauge or shock filling regulator would work to fill right

BenBB · Apr 12, 2018

m3dragon said:
PM me if needed for cell. Already shock tech support for the forum it seems LOL

Yes!!! Supreme shock master :roflbow:

Ratpatator said:
You say there are different ones ? I'm assuming just the side that treads into the shock would be different the side you fill from will all be the same right. So any nitrogen fill gauge or shock filling regulator would work to fill right

There are different places selling them online, watch the fine print as the only ones I know of for sure that thread in with no modifications are from Forged. Yes anything that fits the schrader like on your tires will work (we have some huge ones at work for Caterpillar accumulators but they are like double the size of a normal schrader valve). You want the lossless kind that threads on the schrader and has a valve t-handle to open the valve inside, like Schmidty and others sell:
https://www.schmidtyracing.com/nitrogen-tools-s/1847.htm

Ratpatator · Apr 12, 2018

m3dragon said:
PM me if needed for cell. Already shock tech support for the forum it seems LOL

Thank you for that I'm sure i will need some help at some point. I'm not to familiar with shocks at all. I have a medium amount of mech knowledge but im hoping that I'm not getting in to deep with the shocks. I've also thought about doing flutter stacks for the small bumps and wash board but i don't know how to set that up right or what shims to use to get desired effect.

Shock rebuild prep question

Ratpatator

Full Access Member

BenBB

FRF Supporting Member

Ratpatator

Full Access Member

BenBB

FRF Supporting Member

m3dragon

FRF Addict

Ratpatator

Full Access Member

BenBB

FRF Supporting Member

Ratpatator

Full Access Member

Similar threads

Members online

Forum statistics

Latest posts