New problems with inner hub bearings

CoronaRaptor said:

I'm not an expert, and this may sound dumb: don't the offroad racers use limit straps to stop the amount of travel? I mean if you jack the front of the truck up from the frame, the tire should drop no more than a specific measurement, which might be the problem. Just throwing it in the wind here. Very interesting read.

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Yes, droop is clearly the issue. I'm guessing the rcv's aren't providing enough plunge distance.

I also suspect that there is a problem with the shaft angles and/or binding (RCV says no). What I don't get is why is no one else is experiencing this same issue. The camber/caster/toe is in spec at ride height and I don't have weird or accelerated wear on my tires. The running gear is OEM except for the shocks (and I'm by far not the only guy using Fox 3.0) If I was running a new long stroke system or even aftermarket UCA/LCA I could better believe it is just a geometry problem.

Corona... not a stupid question at all. I thought about this over a year ago when I was breaking OEM shafts. I have limit straps but would have to install some LCAs that have a strap attachment point to use them. This is why I decided to go with the RVC axles instead. However, this may be my next step.

RCV said I should go with their EWI delete kit but I don't think this would do anything but cause extra wear to my diff. what do you think? I mean... the stress on the captured roller bearing would still be there albeit never in rotation.

Thanks for the in put guys... does anyone else out there have this problem?

Joel

Did you ever figure out what was the cause of your problem here? I am currently enjoying the exact issue.

50calthreat said:

Did you ever figure out what was the cause of your problem here? I am currently enjoying the exact issue.

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Not yet... I have had a lot of discussion with Corey and i am in the process of installing the RPG Bolt kit. I also have the RCV v1 axles and I am upgrading to the v2 with longer shafts. They are supposed to rotate more freely than the red cups. Also, the longer upper/lower control arms will reduce the shaft angles. The kit also uses larger thrust bearings (inner wheel bearing) which I believe to be the primary failure point. I think the thrust bearing fails first then goes the needle bearing and everything else if you don't fix it quickly.

I don`t know if this will completely fix the problem but I can see the benefits. The other factor is that I can get replacement bearings from RPG instead of replacing the whole wheel bearing. It will be strange to have 4x4 again. I`'ll report back when everything is installed and I've run on it hard for a while.

I know this is old but I just went through similar issues. I found out the the p/o installed the front coil overs backwards and the top hat wedge shims where not in the correct orientation. Caused popping in the front end and caused a bad outer bearing in the hub.