ICON 3.0 Coilover, Upper Control Arm + Skid Plate installation write up

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ktm505sx

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Hey can you grind the upper cups for a better adjustment on the preload collar?
 
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BIRDMAN

BIRDMAN

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Hey can you grind the upper cups for a better adjustment on the preload collar?

I suppose you could but you can adjust the spanner up almost all the way with the current clearance.

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BIRDMAN

BIRDMAN

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Mine are ran all the way up, and you can not adjust it without lowering the spring assembly..

-Greg (aka squatting dog)

Right but that's only if you want to return to stock height which I'm not sure why anyone would want to but I understand you have a different situation.

I was able to go up 4 turns on the spanner which brought me down to 25.5" from center hub to fender flare...nearly stock height. That last turn or two will require lowering the assembly.

I fooled around with the adjustments a bit but ended where I am now just over 27"
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BlueSVT

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Good job Andy!

Couple things if I may, loosen/unsnap/cut zip tie, on the 4x4 vacuum, wheel speed sensor wire, and brake line BEFORE you separate the upper control arm from the knuckle. The wheel speed sensor wire can damage easilly if pulled tight when the upper control arm springs free. The wires will tear under the insulation and you won't know it until the ABS light kicks on.

You don't "need" the alignment cams, but they will help hold adjustment if you find the arms moving on you while off roading.

Good tip, was going to suggest the same!

Another tip/trick I was shown, is to use a strap up on the firewall, down to the top of the spindle once the UCA is disconnected... so the weight is supported by the strap, and the weight of the hub isn't hanging free. Reason being, when the shock is removed it's VERY easy for the front axle to slip out, and a can be a huge PITA to put back in (especially by yourself).
 

Squatting Dog

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Good tip, was going to suggest the same!

Another tip/trick I was shown, is to use a strap up on the firewall, down to the top of the spindle once the UCA is disconnected... so the weight is supported by the strap, and the weight of the hub isn't hanging free. Reason being, when the shock is removed it's VERY easy for the front axle to slip out, and a can be a huge PITA to put back in (especially by yourself).

And a mess... Lol

-Greg (aka squatting dog)
 

Wilson

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guess what I just though of you could have done the shock test. or a smaller version of one. hit a speed bump or a patch of road and switch the shocks and do it again same speed.

what where you thinking or did you do it. I don't need it though your high on reputation points.
 

Big Blue

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Great Details, Pics and write-up Birdman!!!

The Yeti is badass!! :favorites13:
 
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