DIY - Stock Raptor 2.5 Shock Rebuild.

Took the pickup to mid-perch today. Wow a totally different, and greatly improved, driving experience.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

What is recommended to seal the shraeder valve threads when converting? I see that the Fox shraeder replacement valves come with an o-ring while the forged off-road replacements do not. Not sure if Teflon will suffice...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Teflon tape is for pipe threaded connections..

I used teflon on mine and they are not leaking so far. Only been several months so far though. I have checked the pressure a few times.
Kevin K.

I used blue loctite, will advise when I check pressure if any evidence of leakage from schraders but so far none...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I used Loctite 567.

Thanks guys, Loctite is the plan.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey gents. Awesome thread here. Very helpful - read all 32 pages of this thread.

I'm currently rebuilding the front shocks as we speak. Pushed the IFP down to remove the clip on one shock without issue (more fluid came out, as expected). However, when pushing the other IFP down, there's resistence. Yes, it's actually still pressurized. If I push it down it bounces right back up. The fill allen/screw and rubber pellet are both out. How is this thing still pressurized?

Also, to my surprise, I went to replace the three seals in the cap and could NOT get the white seal in place until removing another (fourth) black seal that had an overlapping design, similar to a lock washer. I recall seeing that somewhere but could not find the individual who mentioned it - regardless, I don't see how the white seal could seat without it coming out so that was done.

If anyone knows how to depressurize this shock, I'd love the feedback. Thanks!

On the seal the new design is a 1 piece (white) that replaces the 2 piece, so your good on that. On the pressurized IFP you say the Allen and the rubber pellet are out? There is nothing else that could be in there unless the pellet sheared off? I would verify that the bottom bleed hole is clear of debris.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hasty said:

On the seal the new design is a 1 piece (white) that replaces the 2 piece, so your good on that. On the pressurized IFP you say the Allen and the rubber pellet are out? There is nothing else that could be in there unless the pellet sheared off? I would verify that the bottom bleed hole is clear of debris.

Click to expand...

Thank you, Hasty! This is admittedly my first rebuild attempt, so far so good, and I really can't explain this. I confirmed the hole was clear of debris to the point of passing a thin zip-tie through it. I just took this quick video to help explain my situation. Strange, right?