Deavers

Sorry for the newb topic but i don't have time to search right now. I plan to put Deavers on but don't know which to go with.

Can anybody explain if the +1 or +2 are better and why? What's actually the difference between them? Also what all is involved with the factory block that I've heard about? Sorry pretty new to this stuff.

Or if you could point me in the direction of a thread that answers these questions I'd appreciate it.

Both sizes do away with the factory block.

+2" put you at stock ride height

+1" put you at under stock ride height by 1"

Call Jeff at Deaver in Santa Ana, CA and he can explain everything to you - he is a very cool guy. +2 means stock ride height. He explained it to me and I forgot why. Basically, it was someone elses numbering system. He removes the factory block and he has his own bump stop pad. Or, you can go with Outlaw bump shock kit, SDHQ's setup with the Deavers. Or, try RPG (Raptor Performance Group) they have a FOX 2.5 Bump Shock and they use a National Spring setup that looks pretty cool...

Make sure if you stay with the factory bump stops that you have a strike pad fabbed. If you don't the shock becomes the bump and that's not such a good way to go.

I have a little over 35,000 miles on my +1 Deavers and they have sagged another 1/2". I recommend going with the +2.

X2 on the RPG kit.

Maxx2893 said:

Sorry for the newb topic but i don't have time to search right now. I plan to put Deavers on but don't know which to go with.

Can anybody explain if the +1 or +2 are better and why? What's actually the difference between them? Also what all is involved with the factory block that I've heard about? Sorry pretty new to this stuff.

Or if you could point me in the direction of a thread that answers these questions I'd appreciate it.

Click to expand...

Max,

Good questions. It’s not easy learning all the terminology behind this stuff sometimes but you will catch on. Everyone above basically said everything you need to know and these 3 have a very good understanding of the Raptor and how it works. I would also strongly recommend that you also take a good look at National Springs. They have been in business for 40 years now and have spent the better part of 12 or so years focusing on custom applications for specific client needs. When we approached National Springs with this project they were very excited and hit it out of the park with the design for the SVT Raptor. They went through multiple sets during testing to make sure proper progression and load ratings were achieved for optimal results for the Raptor platform. All of the steel they use is from the USA or Canada, feature a military double wrap design and I have personally had payloads of 850+ pounds in the bed of my truck and we still weren’t sitting on the bumps. You can go to rpg-offroad.com and watch them in action.

Please call me for more details.

Jarrett
Raptor Performance Group
949-294-9817

National Springs

I would use the National Spring kit but with my perch on the highest setting there is about .5 to .75 diff with the front being higher than the rear. The 3in Deavers may just fix that esp afer a little sag will be level.

Thoughts?

Maxx2893 said:

Also what all is involved with the factory block that I've heard about?

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Those factory lift blocks are tapered. The taper establishes the correct angle for the rear end. Taking out the blocks ain't a good idea.

debate said:

Those factory lift blocks are tapered. The taper establishes the correct angle for the rear end. Taking out the blocks ain't a good idea.

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Going to be interesting to see the truck that get 40,50,60k on them with the blocks out. The taper isnt real big so it will take longer to wear out the pinion bearing... But, it will start a singing sooner or later... If I remove mine I will make a shim to keep the production angle...

Hockster said:

If I remove mine I will make a shim to keep the production angle...

Click to expand...

About five degrees, or so?