bump stop replacement

Got some sets of heavy gauge galvanized hsla blanks available. A pair weighs about 15.5 lbs. Raw dimensions are .191" x 6" x 24". The density of steel is .2833 lbs/cubic inch, so they'd be much lighter trimmed to match the bottom sections of a Raptor frame, maybe 3.5 lbs each.


If you want to try fabricating and designing an attachment method, these might be good trial blanks. No charge.

Let me know if your interested; there are four pair with the grain running the long dimension and three pair with the grain the narrow dimension.

stacked

Think using two per side is better. Bottom plate grain sideways, top plate lengthwise like the frame.

Instead of sponges, maybe thick neopreme. Instead of tape, ... more wraps of tape?

So the sponges are there to change the momentum impulse from the axle, to bump stop, to frame forces?? If so, do you think the sponges are really going to affect the impulse enough to make a difference? I dunno, think i'd just reinforce the top/bottom flange, and the cross section and increase the area of impact. Leave the sponges out of it..... Unless I'm missing something.

laminate

The sponges represent where a suitable material would be in the bump stacks. You're exactly correct about changing the impulse. That, I believe, is the way Ford's "quiet steel" works.

So far I would put polyprop between the plates and neoprene rubber between the top plate and the frame.

debate said:

The sponges represent where a suitable material would be in the bump stacks. You're exactly correct about changing the impulse. That, I believe, is the way Ford's "quiet steel" works.

So far I would put polyprop between the plates and neoprene rubber between the top plate and the frame.

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Ok, now it makes sense lol. I was thinkin; 3000+/-lbs accelerating at 9.8 m/s... and sponges are going to do what

Once the plates are assembled how are you going to attach them? You might be able to use u bolts to go up and around the top of the frame and bolt it from the bottom.

I would like to use a non-destructive attachment. I'd thought of coated cable or shrouded springs, but they would abraid the frame. U-bolts might work if they had a plastic spacer at the top.

The other concerne is brake line routing/clearance on the left.

debate said:

I would like to use a non-destructive attachment. I'd thought of coated cable or shrouded springs, but they would abraid the frame. U-bolts might work if they had a plastic spacer at the top.

The other concerne is brake line routing/clearance on the left.

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I wonder if you could pull the brake line away from the frame a bit and run the u bolt in between the frame and the brake line.

How hard do you run your truck? Personally I'm not sold on if I need to do anything with the frame or not. In one hand I've had my truck for a year now and feel I've pushed it as hard as I safely should (and no bent frame). In the other hand, I'd be kickin myself If I did meet the right conditions that resulted in a bent frame while knowing I could have avoided it by being proactive with a frame mod.

pirate air said:

I wonder if you could pull the brake line away from the frame a bit and run the u bolt in between the frame and the brake line.

How hard do you run your truck? Personally I'm not sold on if I need to do anything with the frame or not. In one hand I've had my truck for a year now and feel I've pushed it as hard as I safely should (and no bent frame). In the other hand, I'd be kickin myself If I did meet the right conditions that resulted in a bent frame while knowing I could have avoided it by being proactive with a frame mod.

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That's my feelings exactly. While the hydo bumpstops look like a great idea, I have ask myself do I really need them? I might just go for the $100. reinforcement kit and call it good...

need

pirate air said:

How hard do you run your truck?

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Not near as hard as the Barstow/Vegas outing. Would if I could, it looked like a hoot and a half! More likely I would have a heavily loaded bed and hit a pothole too fast.

Do you know if the rear spacer blocks are interchageable from side to side? I would like to put the shelf below the bump-stop outboard.

adapt, improvise, and overcome

Got 1/2" polypro for the bump stacks. Gonna find some rubber to seperate the bottom of the frame from the top plate. Probably get Kevlar strips to wrap the stack to the frame and cover with Gorilla tape.

I might use a recessed brass bolt thru the existing frame hole...maybe.

Guess the next step is getting rid of the original bump stops and tracing some templates.