ADD/King bump stop kit is on

Went down to ADD on Friday and we got their bump stop kit all installed on my truck. First off....top notch quality in this kit, the welds look great and after seeing it all together, it looks to be super sturdy. One of the best things about this kit is that it can be completely installed without even taking the bed off.......just dropping the spare and maybe the back portion of your exhaust (mine is dumped so it wasn't in the way at all) to make access easier. This is the first time the real deal complete kit has been fully installed (aside from mocking it up the bed-less Luxury/Performance Raptor) and total time was about 3hrs. King 2.0's with a 4" stroke are handling the duties and they look awesome mounted up in there. We were saying that it's kind of a shame that the wheel blocks the view of them, lol. At this time, there's 50psi of nitrogen in them as per Bret King's recommendation. They sit a little close to the bump pads right now but I haven't noticed too much noise from hitting on them in normal driving.....aside from speed bumps of course. They also make a 2" stroke and also a spacer that goes inside to shorten the length. Some of you guys who are interested in this may want to go the shorter stroke route for everyday driving......I'm gonna run this set-up for now to see how it does with some good off-road thrashing. We're heading out on Saturday to do some testing for it so hopefully there'll be some Go-Pro footage to follow shortly thereafter. Until then, here's some teaser pics.....

Looks great! Looking forward to the report/videos!

Niiice SOCO!!!

What distance do you have between your bumps and bump pads?

Reason why I ask is I just pulled my bumps off to shorten them by an 1". Right now, I'm 1 1/4" away from them making contact but they hit all the time on the street.

I think this is the best, I also look forward to your report and the objectivity that always accompany him.

I am especially interested to know what commented, J. Hameedi;

"If you had an infinitely stiff frame, It Would 'donkey kick' the rear of truck That really high Into the air."

Regards

Nice! Can't wait to hear your feedback.

Looks good! Can't wait to see how it performs for you

So, at rest, the bump stops are almost touching the bump stop plates??? Maybe its my pea-brain, but that just doesn't seem to make sense to me. Is this total distance the same as the stock distance? Essentially, is this setup offering more "shock-style" pressure resistance instead of just dead air until slamming into the rubber grommet on the underside of the frame like the stock setup? Did that make sense?

Have at you!
- YODA

Nitrogen charged bump stops are the little brothers of shock absorbers, but play a very different role all together. The full time job for an nitrogen bump stop is to assist with the smooth deceleration of a fast compressing suspension, like those on an off-road or desert racing truck. This helps smooth out the ride, keep the axle from slamming to the top of its upward-most travel, and finally helps to control the vehicle too. In nearly every case, the nitrogen bump stop replaces the poly or rubber bump stop that mounts to the frame or the axle. For every inch of up travel in the nitrogen bump stop the damping force increases exponentially disipating kenetic energy into heat. This limits the amount kenetic energy from bottoming out the suspension and causing frame damage, broken axles, or rear end dangerously being kicked upwards.
Jounces (nitrogen bump stops) are adjusted so the up travel is not limited allowing full articulation at slow, moderate speed. But still allowing full "controlled" compression at high speed.

Raptizzle said:

Niiice SOCO!!!

What distance do you have between your bumps and bump pads?

Reason why I ask is I just pulled my bumps off to shorten them by an 1". Right now, I'm 1 1/4" away from them making contact but they hit all the time on the street.

Click to expand...

I'm only at about a 1/2" away from contact. I'm more interested in seeing how it does off-road with it set up like this and the bump's working all the way through the cycle.

f16wolly said:

So, at rest, the bump stops are almost touching the bump stop plates??? Maybe its my pea-brain, but that just doesn't seem to make sense to me. Is this total distance the same as the stock distance? Essentially, is this setup offering more "shock-style" pressure resistance instead of just dead air until slamming into the rubber grommet on the underside of the frame like the stock setup? Did that make sense?

Have at you!
- YODA

Click to expand...

See above and below These are the 4" stroke, you can also get the 2" stroke which will obviously leave a bit more room.

GJMcManus said:

Nitrogen charged bump stops are the little brothers of shock absorbers, but play a very different role all together. The full time job for an nitrogen bump stop is to assist with the smooth deceleration of a fast compressing suspension, like those on an off-road or desert racing truck. This helps smooth out the ride, keep the axle from slamming to the top of its upward-most travel, and finally helps to control the vehicle too. In nearly every case, the nitrogen bump stop replaces the poly or rubber bump stop that mounts to the frame or the axle. For every inch of up travel in the nitrogen bump stop the damping force increases exponentially disipating kenetic energy into heat. This limits the amount kenetic energy from bottoming out the suspension and causing frame damage, broken axles, or rear end dangerously being kicked upwards.
Jounces (nitrogen bump stops) are adjusted so the up travel is not limited allowing full articulation at slow, moderate speed. But still allowing full "controlled" compression at high speed.

Click to expand...

Booyah.


As I said, we're gonna see how this does as it sits, with the bumps working through it's full stroke. We can also play with the pressure as well. ADD did their homework with this one in that they cycled the suspension and have it set where the the bump cycles and ends where the shock does, so no worries of the bump "taking over" the shock, they're working in perfect harmony together......and if you hit your frame, then that means you blew past the bump, bent the mount and over drove the truck, lol.

Seriously over drove the truck!!
The highly exponential nature of the nitrogen bump stops. The the spring force and spring rate remain constant and quite low (soft) for the first 2/3 of the shocks travel, and then increase rapidly and dramatically from there - meaning they get quite stiff quite fast. If I remember correctly at (60 psi) fully compressed the spring force is around 2500 lbs +/-


( my redneck way to adjust them, im sure ADD has a modern way.. )
Put a zip tie on the jounce at the top of the shaft. Go drive it and hit some whoops. If the zip tie is bottomed out then the pressure needs raised.