Rigid 20" Lightbar & Duallys - Installation Instructions

treypal · Oct 15, 2010

MarkT said:
Another thing to look for is that the holes you drill are 1/2" for a reason... to allow clearance for the "square" on the head of the carriage bolt. Maybe one of the bolts didn't seat in the hole properly?

I put the carriage head on the bracket side, not the raptor side. That doesnt mean it seated right though.

I know I haven't hit anything with the truck, and I really hope that the bracket is even and square. The light was a real tight fit in the bracket though.

treypal · Oct 15, 2010

You cant see the crookedness, but here is a pic of the light installed, with the LP bracket flipped and trimmed.

SOCOMech · Oct 15, 2010

There's going to be variances between trucks in that area. Some trucks will measure differently from the factory right there so, that may be what you're seeing on yours. In fact, mine actually sticks out juuuuust a bit more on the passenger side as well.

treypal · Oct 21, 2010

Installed my duallies amber spot/amber flood last night. I drove around with them on in town and no one seemed to mind. The white 20" bar really washes out the amber offroad though.

Jake Y. · Oct 21, 2010

looks great!

BikerDrummer · Apr 24, 2012

Day

Night pictures

Duallys Only

Duallys + 20" Bar

iSurvive · May 9, 2012

Triheart7 said:
I have enjoyed reading this thread. I was wondering how the 20 inch and Dually's hold up to rocks and dirt. Also, I was wondering how hot they get, if you run through a puddle would they crack? How easy are they to clean?

My fog lights have been through one really rough, wet day at the offroad track. I was covered from head to toe with mud from shallow puddles on the track. I mean waves of water that landed on my roof and in my bed. On one run I actually drove fast enough to pass under the splash without getting hit. My headlights and fog lights were so covered with mud, they were almost useless.

I had no problem with the heat and water. However, I did not cross a river or submerge them completely.

I am installing the 20" light bar tomorrow - so I can't say how it holds up.

The Rigid lights are solid as a rock. They seem very well made and feel solid in your hands. The hardware is not as well made (the bolts are the parts that worry me the most). I replaced some of the bracket bolts with high quality galvanized carriage bolts.

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

treypal said:
Installed my duallies amber spot/amber flood last night. I drove around with them on in town and no one seemed to mind. The white 20" bar really washes out the amber offroad though.

I moved my license plate to the same spot you did. My 20" light bar comes tomorrow. I couldn't see using the 4" light bars on each side of the license plate - just not as cool as the full 20 inches!!

---------- Post added at 08:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31 PM ----------

MagicMtnDan said:
I've been talking to Taylor about this.

There's speculation that it's the interface between the Dually brackets and the large plate (powdercoat on powdercoat).

I'm concerned with the four short sheet metal screws holding the two Dually mounting plates on. I know they would've used bolts, washers and nuts if it wasn't being mounted to the Raptor's tube. I'm thinking of getting longer sheet metal screws and using lock washers. But I'm concerned about using sheet metal screws going into steel. I've already removed and reinstalled the screws a couple of times and they just never seem to "bite" the way I'd like. Plus the screws are installed upside down. I think they're going to shake out but I'm not sure. I did put in a 5th hole through which I used a bolt, washers and a nut so the plate shouldn't come off even if the sheet metal screws come out. I wish we could've done them all that way.

I wonder about tack welding the plates on?

Next guy that doesn't feel comfortable doing this installation should talk to us. I think it'd be fun helping guys do this installation. Kind of like the "purse party" that Tim's talked about. It'll help guys save a bunch of cash and give 'em confidence about working on their trucks. (I've done this before, a lot, in the past - on Porsches - oil changes, brake bleeds, modifications including some serious stuff like removing the steering wheel, etc.). It's fun for everyone

I replaced the two outside screws with carriage bolts and nylon lock-nuts, since I could access the nuts from the edge of the tube. The self-tapping metal screws cannot be tightened enough and rough riding pulls them loose.

iSurvive · May 13, 2012

MagicMtnDan said:
Some notes on the Rigid Installation and instructions:

* The bolts Rigid provided for the 20" lightbar are different (better) than the ones shown in the pics. The supplied bolts have square shoulders so they don't need the washers in front of the bracket which is what they show in their instructions. I put the washers in the back of the steel plate that the bracket mounts to (the washer's in back of the steel plate in front of the lock nuts). It's nice how the square shoulders of the bolts fit into the slots in the mounting bracket and keep the bolts from turning.

Bumperettes - this only applies to the 20" lightbar installation

* Now that I've done the installation I'd recommend NOT removing the bumperettes. Why? The tabs on the right bumperette were "deformed" and not very long making them unreliable for reattaching them securely to the "crash pad" behind the bumperettes. I suspect the crash pad and bumperette are assembled at Ford off the truck making it much easier to put them together. And I believe the bumperette assembly is bonded to the Raptor's bumper with one-time adhesive. I'd like to find out if this is true. And I'd like to see what the cost of a set of bumperettes is like.

* If you don't remove the bumperettes you can mark the location of the holes to drill in them (one 1/2" hole in each bumperette) with the mounting bracket installed - use a Sharpie pushed through the mounting hole in the bracket to mark the hole location on the bumperette. Remove the bracket and then drill the 1/2" hole.

I followed your suggestion and did not remove the bumperettes. This method works perfectly. Adjusting the nuts could not be easier. There is plenty of room for a small wrench to fit between the bumperette and the bracket. This install was so much easier than the fog lights!

With the Dually Fog Lights and the 20" Lightbar, my truck turns dark into daylight. My next project is to install the 40" Lightbar behind the upper grille.

justvettn · May 13, 2012

I see a lot of Raptors using the dully's as fog lights with no problems, just wondering if i use the D2's for fogs am I pushing my luck because they are so much brighter.

iSurvive · Jun 9, 2012

justvettn said:
I see a lot of Raptors using the dully's as fog lights with no problems, just wondering if i use the D2's for fogs am I pushing my luck because they are so much brighter.

If it's all you're going to install, I would do the D2s. I still am thinking of installing D2s someday, replacing my Duallys. But I do have the 20" light bar, and am installing the hood mount VisionX 4500's. It just feels like the more light the cooler it looks!!

Are you worried about the police noticing the solar flare emanating from your truck?

Rigid 20" Lightbar & Duallys - Installation Instructions

treypal

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Jake Y.

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