new light wiring question
- Thread starter nsdq3
- Start date
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They're supposed to be continuous at there ratted amperage.
MTF
FRF Addict
Just a thought!!!
You can use the switches 1 thru 4, to trigger another 30 or 50 amp (higher if need be) relay and mount that relay in the engine compartment or where ever you like.
This way you can have all you switches doing 30 amps or what your needs maybe.
I used switch #4 to trigger a 30 amp relay to power my dual HE fans. It's real simple.
Birdman has a nice write up on the up-lifter switches.
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f170/wire-raptor-aux-upfitter-switches-20335/#post345541
Good place to buy relays and harnesses: Automotive Relays | WiringProducts
Or any Auto Parts store for around $5
You can use the switches 1 thru 4, to trigger another 30 or 50 amp (higher if need be) relay and mount that relay in the engine compartment or where ever you like.
This way you can have all you switches doing 30 amps or what your needs maybe.
I used switch #4 to trigger a 30 amp relay to power my dual HE fans. It's real simple.
Birdman has a nice write up on the up-lifter switches.
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f170/wire-raptor-aux-upfitter-switches-20335/#post345541
Good place to buy relays and harnesses: Automotive Relays | WiringProducts
Or any Auto Parts store for around $5
Last edited:
Jag
Full Access Member
MTF - You're bringing up a question I have that I haven't fully traced down. If the switches are triggering a relay that then actually performs the switching of the end device it seems to me the amp rating is really more of a concern at the relay then at the upfitter switches themselves. Therefore, the amp rating of the first switch is overkill for how most people are using it, switches 2 and 3 could work for anything and 4 can probably handle most of the relays that would be used for most purposes. Basically, unless you are tying a bunch of relays to a single switch, or powering something more direct, such as through only a fuse, the amp rating of the switch is mostly mute (within reason, of course. I'm not discounting that there is still a load, simply that the load isn't a direct load, since that is actually handled by the relay, not the switch).
I'm still working out how I want to wire everything up that I have so far and plan for what I want to add later. I already know I need to build some connection and relay stations and add switches. I'm just trying to determine what I can double up on short term to get things lit up and properly isolated.
I'm still working out how I want to wire everything up that I have so far and plan for what I want to add later. I already know I need to build some connection and relay stations and add switches. I'm just trying to determine what I can double up on short term to get things lit up and properly isolated.
Ironhorse07
FRF Addict
The amperage rating limit would be for the protection of the wire. I don't have the wire sizes handy for the #3 switch but it is entirely possible that the circuit is derated down to 15 amps and could possibly handle a 20 amp fuse.
if using additional relays, then yes, it is referring to the rating at the relay and no longer at the switch. most relays require 200ma of current. you could power 100 relays at once off of aux 1 if you wanted to. i have aux 1 powering 8 relays right now. each relay is rated at 30amps.
BAJASVT
FRF Addict
Aramco Raptor
Full Access Member
MTF
FRF Addict
I was pointing out that a lot of guys are using the uplifter switches as switches for more powerful relays and bigger wires to power up light bars.
Like the Noah pointed out, you can basically do what ever you need with the switches.
Like the Noah pointed out, you can basically do what ever you need with the switches.
OP
OP
nsdq3
Full Access Member
if you go this route, where the aux switch just powers the relay, do you need to run inline fuses?
For example, say I run the 30" bar off off switch four, to a 30 AMP relay. Would I need to run a fuse in-between the relay and the bar?
For example, say I run the 30" bar off off switch four, to a 30 AMP relay. Would I need to run a fuse in-between the relay and the bar?
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