Interior & Exterior LED Lighting Mods All in one spot

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Slimneill

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I plan to install a few different LED strings on the truck.

So far the list goes like this:
Blue & Amber LED for Hood Vent/Under Cowl
Blue & Amber LED for Side Vent SVT light up
Blue & Amber LED behind FORD Grill (see how this works)
White LED under running boards
White LED along Truck Bed Rails
Blue LED Under seat/Floor lighting
Blue LED Cup holder light up mod
Maybe a EL Wire on Dash once it is vinyl wrapped


So far I’ve ordered:
5M of Amber 5050LED
5M of Blue 5630LED
5M of Pure White 5630 LED
All the splitters/connectors required to daisy chain together.

The total amp rating of all 15M is ~15amps. Note that half of it will be duplicates (blue/amber) so I won’t be running all 15M at the same time.
My plan is to have separate push buttons to turn on and off the lights not using the uplifters.

My first question: Do I have to use a separate relay & fuse in the engine compartment to power the lights or can I run them off of an unused Fuse located in the driver side fuse box? The Driver’s manual lists Fues/Relay location 2 & 3 as unused 15Amp, and location 4 is a 30amp location. I was thinking about to run a lead from one of these to a distribution block close by for a cleaner install.

My Second question:
I have read that there are some lines that are always hot (direct to battery) and some that are are only on when ignition is on or on during the delay after ignition (like radio staying on after the truck is turned off but turning off when you open the door). Is there an easy place online that I can find this info out?

My third Question:
How do I wire the exterior lights to flash with the ambers when you unlock the truck or lock it? Do I just tie into that wire? Does that wire go right back to the fuse box in the cabin or under the hood?

Is the Lighter plug/12V accessory always hot or killed with ignition?

Thanks for the help. I will post pics as I go.
 
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vecciomano

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Run off one or two of your auxiliary switches, if they are not already taken. You could also split the under belly lamps (Running boards and under bed) onto a separate switch. The drivers side fuse box is always hot. You would need another switch. You can use a magnetic switch for the amber lights off of a running light wire, but you need a separate power from the forward engine compartment fuse box.
 
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The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy
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I plan to install a few different LED strings on the truck.

So far the list goes like this:
Blue & Amber LED for Hood Vent/Under Cowl
Blue & Amber LED for Side Vent SVT light up
Blue & Amber LED behind FORD Grill (see how this works)
White LED under running boards
White LED along Truck Bed Rails
Blue LED Under seat/Floor lighting
Blue LED Cup holder light up mod
Maybe a EL Wire on Dash once it is vinyl wrapped


So far I’ve ordered:
5M of Amber 5050LED
5M of Blue 5630LED
5M of Pure White 5630 LED
All the splitters/connectors required to daisy chain together.

The total amp rating of all 15M is ~15amps. Note that half of it will be duplicates (blue/amber) so I won’t be running all 15M at the same time.
My plan is to have separate push buttons to turn on and off the lights not using the uplifters.

My first question: Do I have to use a separate relay & fuse in the engine compartment to power the lights or can I run them off of an unused Fuse located in the driver side fuse box? The Driver’s manual lists Fues/Relay location 2 & 3 as unused 15Amp, and location 4 is a 30amp location. I was thinking about to run a lead from one of these to a distribution block close by for a cleaner install.

you cant really go into the fuse box for power unless you know what it controls and how to trigger it

My Second question:
I have read that there are some lines that are always hot (direct to battery) and some that are are only on when ignition is on or on during the delay after ignition (like radio staying on after the truck is turned off but turning off when you open the door). Is there an easy place online that I can find this info out?

the fuse box in the pkp is also known as the bcm. you can find just about every wire you need there. there is constant, rap, and ignition easily accessible there.

My third Question:
How do I wire the exterior lights to flash with the ambers when you unlock the truck or lock it? Do I just tie into that wire? Does that wire go right back to the fuse box in the cabin or under the hood?

trying to do this will require a more work. if you tie into that wire, then those lights will be on anytime your truck lights are on. you will need to wire relays into the system allowing you to have control of the lights as well as the same function as you marker lights

Is the Lighter plug/12V accessory always hot or killed with ignition?

theres 2 of them. one is ignition and the other is constant

Thanks for the help. I will post pics as I go.

here
 

BOBONTUESDAY

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I've done almost everyone of those, minus the vents. For behind the Ford I attached it to my 2 40s I the grill.
 
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