2013 F150 Headlights listed on fordparts.com

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NickPic83

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I am too but I am more interested in the light output of the OEM projectors vs the different retros

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hosseface

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Wiring

Everybody seems all worried about wiring these things up, PNP, etc. It IS NOT going to be a big deal! The new headlights require only 4 wires. One ground, one constant power, one low beam signal and one high beam signal. Thats about as close to "PNP" as you get!

All that is going to be needed is:
(2) complete headlight assys with ballasts/bulbs/etc
H13 Bixenon Relay Harness - from TRS, etc
2 aforementioned Motorcraft wiring pigtails to connect to headlights
25' roll of wire and (2) in-line fuse holders with 20 amp fuses

Like I said before - Ive got this all figured out and Ive studied factory diagrams. Once I get the lights in hand, I will be able to tell you what wire goes where at the light connector but basically this is what you need to do:

Remove your old headlights, install the H13 bixenon relay harness. The relay harness will provide you with a signal for both high beam and low beam. It also provides ground. That is 3 of your 4 wires for the pigtail for your headlight right there. The only other thing that each light/ballast will need is a constant power supply on a fused 20 amp circuit. I am simply going to make a 2 wire harness in wire loom, connect one end to the battery, install 2 in line fuse holders with 20 amp fuses and run one wire to each side. Thats your 4th of 4 wires.

Make sense?:hail:
 
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krww06

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Everybody seems all worried about wiring these things up, PNP, etc. It IS NOT going to be a big deal! The new headlights require only 4 wires. One ground, one constant power, one low beam signal and one high beam signal. Thats about as close to "PNP" as you get!

All that is going to be needed is:
(2) complete headlight assys with ballasts/bulbs/etc
H13 Bixenon Relay Harness - from TRS, etc
2 aforementioned Motorcraft wiring pigtails to connect to headlights
25' roll of wire and (2) in-line fuse holders with 20 amp fuses

Like I said before - Ive got this all figured out and Ive studied factory diagrams. Once I get the lights in hand, I will be able to tell you what wire goes where at the light connector but basically this is what you need to do:

Remove your old headlights, install the H13 bixenon relay harness. The relay harness will provide you with a signal for both high beam and low beam. It also provides ground. That is 3 of your 4 wires for the pigtail for your headlight right there. The only other thing that each light/ballast will need is a constant power supply on a fused 20 amp circuit. I am simply going to make a 2 wire harness in wire loom, connect one end to the battery, install 2 in line fuse holders with 20 amp fuses and run one wire to each side. Thats your 4th of 4 wires.

Make sense?:hail:

Please keep us updated on how this works out. Also, please post some pictures of the light output once installed.
 

Macman

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Everybody seems all worried about wiring these things up, PNP, etc. It IS NOT going to be a big deal! The new headlights require only 4 wires. One ground, one constant power, one low beam signal and one high beam signal. Thats about as close to "PNP" as you get!

All that is going to be needed is:
(2) complete headlight assys with ballasts/bulbs/etc
H13 Bixenon Relay Harness - from TRS, etc
2 aforementioned Motorcraft wiring pigtails to connect to headlights
25' roll of wire and (2) in-line fuse holders with 20 amp fuses

Like I said before - Ive got this all figured out and Ive studied factory diagrams. Once I get the lights in hand, I will be able to tell you what wire goes where at the light connector but basically this is what you need to do:

Remove your old headlights, install the H13 bixenon relay harness. The relay harness will provide you with a signal for both high beam and low beam. It also provides ground. That is 3 of your 4 wires for the pigtail for your headlight right there. The only other thing that each light/ballast will need is a constant power supply on a fused 20 amp circuit. I am simply going to make a 2 wire harness in wire loom, connect one end to the battery, install 2 in line fuse holders with 20 amp fuses and run one wire to each side. Thats your 4th of 4 wires.

Make sense?:hail:

Sounds pretty good, let us know how you fare once you get one. Is there no other way to tap into existing continuous power without connecting straing to the battery? (Just to keep it tidy)
 
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hosseface

hosseface

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Sounds pretty good, let us know how you fare once you get one. Is there no other way to tap into existing continuous power without connecting straing to the battery? (Just to keep it tidy)

You could tap into power at the fuse box and/or add to a blank spot in the box (that would be a lot of trouble) but you are going to have to tap direct to the battery for the H13 harness anyway so IMO 2 more wires arent going to hurt anything. That wiring across the radiator support is a mess from the factory anyway. Mine will def be neat though - I installed an on board air system / air horn and a 20" and 40" Rigid and the wiring looks as good as, if not better, than the factory run harnesses.

My lights are still supposed to be here tomorrow, so I'll take some pics along the way and write up a how to for everyone.
 

Macman

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You could tap into power at the fuse box and/or add to a blank spot in the box (that would be a lot of trouble) but you are going to have to tap direct to the battery for the H13 harness anyway so IMO 2 more wires arent going to hurt anything. That wiring across the radiator support is a mess from the factory anyway. Mine will def be neat though - I installed an on board air system / air horn and a 20" and 40" Rigid and the wiring looks as good as, if not better, than the factory run harnesses.

My lights are still supposed to be here tomorrow, so I'll take some pics along the way and write up a how to for everyone.

Awesome, look forward to it!
 
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hosseface

hosseface

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^^
Looking forward to your write-up and also to seeing how light output compares to retros.

Im definitely in the MINORITY because to me, I want the 2013 lights because I LOVE the look of them. The light output... meh not too concerned. Thats what the Rigids are for! :laughing1:

I too am curious though to see what they have. We'll see tomorrow as long as my lights show.
 
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