Undercoating my 2014 SCREW

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Jkysh

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Hey everyone,

Looking for your guys thoughts on undercoating options. I picked up my truck the other day and am loving it. The undercarriage is very clean with minimal surface dust, and I am looking to keep it this way.

I am thinking about lineX undercoating on the undercarriage And wheel Wells. Is this something you guys recommend? If so what cost should I assume is the norm for this work?

I'll be touching up a few tiny areas with Boeshield T9 before, but am looking for a permanent peace of mind and some potential fire noise reduction. The 32in Nitto Trail Grapplers are awesome but a bit noisy at 75-80mph. Thanks in advance and I appreciate any suggestions
 

AndysLog

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should be 35s. depends on how mechanically inclined you are.

tape off anything you dont want sprayed.
 
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Jkysh

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They're 35s, typing on my phone in traffic.

Honestly not looking to spend hours under my truck taping things off. I was under the impression they did the taping for the lineX
 

AndysLog

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well if you think about it from this angle. they know for sure they will never see or work on your truck really again. so whatever bolts they cover with that thick ass coating or plug. will not come apart easily.


just something to process. i would like to paint my frame with por15, pull the bed and toss some smooth undercoating so dirt doesnt cake. beyond that they are all removable parts and components that can be painted alone or done need to be because they are plastic or something.
 
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Jkysh

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Very true

I guess I am looking for an undercoating solution that essentially treats the metal rather than covering it with a heavy duty lineX coating.

I am going to use some Amsoil MPHD and touch up a few spots with surface rust right now but would like a more robust solution for the long term.

I've read about 3m mar Hyde and following up with black rustoleom and it seems like a good option as well.

Any thoughts?
 

Chris@FreedomMotorsports

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Check out the thread below. An application of Amsoil MPHD would be plenty of coverage that will last, pretty much until you take it off.

http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f36/clear-undercoat-1622/index5.html#post258371
 

SZDZMTR

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Like they said....^^^^^....Do not over complicate this... AMS Oil HP and done. 3 cans of it will do the trick. And you and your truck will live happily ever after...
 
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Jkysh

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I have three cans of MPHD on the way.

Going to coat the things I see necessary, but what are your suggestions on things to focus on? I will touch up spots where surface rust has began but am looking to do mainly preventative maintence.

All / any input warmly welcomed. I'm looking forward to doing this
 

EricM

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I don't know if it was an earlier post from me that you refer to with the Mar-Hyde and Rustoleum combo, but you don't need the Mar-Hyde unless you have rust. It's a rust convertor. It converts it into a stable form of iron.

I've started using both on mine. I had the tires off, so I did the wheel wells and all the accessible parts from the wheel well area (frame, bed support ends, outer portion and and top of the leaf springs). Anything that looked rusty got a coat of the Marhyde, then I waited for that to dry and hit it with the Rustoleum Pro flat black "7578". Looks great. I also did the receiver hitch, pinch weld seam on the rockers, and the rear leaf spring hangers & shackles. All of that was horrible on my last truck after 15 years in the salt belt. Didn't even mask anything off- I just have mad spray paint skills. Well, I do actually, but the nozzle and spray pattern are pretty nice on the Pro cans, so it's easy to nicely paint what you want, and only what you want. Not as good as the adjustable tips on Spraymax cans, but way better than the cheapy spray paint cans.

Best thing altogether is to try to find a winter "beater" for the days when it's just wet and salty. That's the real answer to keeping something from rusting out. I'll still drive the truck when there's salt on the roads, but only when it's dry- or at least close to it. The days where it's really wet and they've dumped a bunch of salt just flat out destroy a vehicle. I put beater in quotes because you really don't want to be out in winter conditions with a true beater, or at least I don't. Plenty of FWD cars in the 5K range that'll last you 10 more years. Nice to have a spare vehicle all year too.
 
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Jkysh

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I don't know if it was an earlier post from me that you refer to with the Mar-Hyde and Rustoleum combo, but you don't need the Mar-Hyde unless you have rust. It's a rust convertor. It converts it into a stable form of iron.

I've started using both on mine. I had the tires off, so I did the wheel wells and all the accessible parts from the wheel well area (frame, bed support ends, outer portion and and top of the leaf springs). Anything that looked rusty got a coat of the Marhyde, then I waited for that to dry and hit it with the Rustoleum Pro flat black "7578". Looks great. I also did the receiver hitch, pinch weld seam on the rockers, and the rear leaf spring hangers & shackles. All of that was horrible on my last truck after 15 years in the salt belt. Didn't even mask anything off- I just have mad spray paint skills. Well, I do actually, but the nozzle and spray pattern are pretty nice on the Pro cans, so it's easy to nicely paint what you want, and only what you want. Not as good as the adjustable tips on Spraymax cans, but way better than the cheapy spray paint cans.

Best thing altogether is to try to find a winter "beater" for the days when it's just wet and salty. That's the real answer to keeping something from rusting out. I'll still drive the truck when there's salt on the roads, but only when it's dry- or at least close to it. The days where it's really wet and they've dumped a bunch of salt just flat out destroy a vehicle. I put beater in quotes because you really don't want to be out in winter conditions with a true beater, or at least I don't. Plenty of FWD cars in the 5K range that'll last you 10 more years. Nice to have a spare vehicle all year too.

Prettt sure it wa you on the mar hyde, thanks for chiming in!

The only "rust" I have now is surface and it's prettt infrequent so I am just going to go win the MPHD. Might buy some boeshield T9 for the shock bodies at a local store as well.

I do have a 4Runner that I was using as my daily driver back when I had my Audi S4, I'm not sure if I'm going to get rid of it or not. I honestly would like to thing with a thorough MPHD application and cleaning during salty months it should be fine. Connecticut does not use a "salt" mixture in the winter it is some hybrid spray which is a lot cleaner on both cars and the environment.

I'm gonna try and get this done now that it's totally dry and the the truck has had time to sit. Regardless, I'm going to be posting some pictures this weekend now that I have some time on my hands to putz around on it
 
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