Shock rebuild stuck bleed screw

Hi fellas, I'm just rebuilding a set of raptor shocks for a friend, got to the last shock and have one stuck set screw , other is free to bleed the air out, do i need both or can I get away with bleeding through the one hole?

Any info would be awesome. Thanks in advance .

Honestly a shock rebuild isn't for the faint of heart on these 2.5's. It concerns me your asking these kinds of questions. Also there is no "air" in these shocks, they are internal bypass with nitrogen. Are you talking the plastic cap that covers the rubber nitrogen fill plug? Purging should be done with a fill needle. Im not sure what you mean by set screw. Hopefully you have a nitrogen fill needle and are charging them to the specific PSI they call for after assembly?

If you answered no to any of these please post the individualized serial numbers to each shock so future owners know what shocks not to buy.

Garret said:

Hi fellas, I'm just rebuilding a set of raptor shocks for a friend, got to the last shock and have one stuck set screw , other is free to bleed the air out, do i need both or can I get away with bleeding through the one hole?



Any info would be awesome. Thanks in advance .

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I would believe you will be fine with one bleed screw working. Tilt the shock around to get all of the trapped air out. People have successfully bled with 1 bled screw or by overfilling to minimize air pockets.

If you are worried, you can always order a new bearing cap from poly performance or sdhq. Rear is about $30 with bleed screws.


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Wow that first post was quite rude. Called Paul at we rebuild shocks and he answered my question, we were able to bleed the air with one screw and filled the shock rite full when assembling. I do have a fill needle , and a caterpillar nitrogen kit . Got all my seals from we rebuild shocks . Very good to deal with.

The 2.5s are really not that hard to rebuild if you have ANY sort of mechanical aptitude. Glad you were able to get it sorted. Maybe order a new cap to have on hand for next time you want to rebuild them?

Yea it went quite smooth , I've done my sled shocks in the past , definetly recommend having the new caps on hand , I upgraded the fill valve from needle to Schraeder valves, made a couple tools for rear shock to stroke the piston for air removal.

Garret said:

Yea it went quite smooth , I've done my sled shocks in the past , definetly recommend having the new caps on hand , I upgraded the fill valve from needle to Schraeder valves, made a couple tools for rear shock to stroke the piston for air removal.

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Schraeder valves are a must-do in my opinion. It makes shock maintenance so much easier. Those stupid little bleed screws are notorious for seizing in there. I've been lucky on both of my sets so far.

The Salted roads here arnt helping the bleed screw situtation, how often are you checking the pressure ? There was next to nothing in these ones at 121,000km.