Ordered New Rotors, Pads, Fluid, & Lines

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WHYUMAD

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So, I did some extensive research & also cost/benefit analysis. I found that RockAuto.com had the best prices on pretty much everything dealing with rotors, pads, etc.



I purchased the following from RockAuto.com:



Front Rotors

Power Stop Extreme Performance Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors

AR85108XPR

$131.78 (pair)



Rear Rotors

Power Stop Extreme Performance Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors

AR85148XPR

$161.58 (pair)



Front Pads

Posi-Quiet Extended Wear w/Shims

10614140 (106.14140)

$48.79 (set)



Rear Pads

Posi-Quiet Extended Wear w/Shims and hardware-P; Semi-Metallic

10616020 (106.16020)'

$39.89 (set)



The total came out to be $454.49 with shipping ($72.45 shipped).



I bought Series 500 High-Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid from Amsoil.com with the preferred customer discount. I bought 7 12 oz bottles for $38.50 ($5.50 a pop).



I bought the Ford Raptor Stainless Steel Kevlar Braided Brake Lines in Smoke color from KLM Performance for $207.45.



I went with the Power Stop rotors because StopTech & Power Stop were both recently bought out by Centric, & we all know StopTech has a very good reputation. I was leaning towards getting the StopTech drilled & slotted rotors for roughly $90 a rotor until I found this information out. They both use the same Centric rotors now, & are the same damn rotor...one being higher priced because of the name now. $60 & $80 a rotor is a hell of a deal for drilled & slotted rotors, especially when OEM stock rotors are $90 & their substitute OEM brand rotors can be had for $60 a rotor.



I went with the posi-quiet pads because I've heard nothing but good things about them on the forums & it's another Centric product, so they should go well with the rotors.



I also went with Dot 3 because it was half the price of Dot 4, & I read that most people notice no difference between the two if they use the same brand of that brake fluid. Not all Dot 3 brake fluids are equal, & the same can be said for Dot 4s. Some Dot 3 fluids have higher boiling points that some Dot 4 fluids, depending on what brands you go with. I went with Amsoil, who over-engineers most of their products to exceed minimum requirements for fluids such as Dot 3 & Dot 4. Mainly, for daily driving purposes, a good syntehtic Dot 3 fluid like Amsoils will be more than enough for most of us. Dot 4 is beneficial when it comes down to some hardcore racing, but even then I believe the Dot 3 fluid from Amsoil could stand up to those conditions.



The brake lines are a must for better brake feel of course, & I don't really have to go into why I chose to do them.



Just throwing it out there for anyone not looking to spend a fortune on brakes, but want a nice upgrade for a good bang for the buck. The prices I found on the rotors & pads were phenomenal, so I figured I'd share with y'all.
 
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Madcowranch

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Any worry about drilled and slotted rotors not being as durable in this application?

Seems like I heard that somewhere.
 

JamesGrossaint

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Before you read this I am not trying to be rude this is only personal opinion and what I have seen my shop.


We have a ton of issues with stop tech rotors at work....from warping,heat spots,spyder cracks ...everything that can go wrong does.

Personally after seeing everything we carry, the only replacement rotors that would ever go on my truck is EBC.

Some things are not worth going cheap on and breaks is one of them.
 
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WHYUMAD

WHYUMAD

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A few of my friends have stoptech brake setups & they dob't have issues. I've heard a bunch of good reviews on them as well. Some people have good experiences & some have bad experiences with the same thing. Hopefully I don't have any issues with them, but only time will tell. No offense taken, its not like I'm bandwagoning anything...I'm sure EBC & R1 are really awesome, but I saw a bang for the buck opportunity & am testing it out...hopefully it pays off.

Also, Drilled & Slotted rotors don't wear more, if anything they wear less. Drilled rotors do run a risk of cracking around the drill slots, which is the downfall, but they look great. Slotted rotors are the safer bet to go with, but I like the drilled/slotted look best. Another risk I'm taking with these rotors.
 

Chris@FreedomMotorsports

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It is important to remember that the main reason that drilled rotors crack is because of the way they are drilled. Beveling the hole edges goes a long way toward defending against cracking, but I have also seen rotors that were drilled too close to the veins between the to sides of the rotors, whereby causing weakness in the rotor itself leading to cracking.

I have also seen many times when great products don't last very long due to incomplete brake system servicing. Regardless of the brake parts utilized, making sure to use the new metal clips, service and grease the caliper guide bolts (WITH the new rubber bushings supplied with most hardware kits), fully flushing the brake fluid, properly seating the pads to the rotors upon installation are all very important to the overall life of the new parts. I have seen many times when good parts don't last because the customer only installed the new rotors and pads and did not take the extra time to perform a complete service.

I give you props on doing the research and for performing a full brake system service, my guess is that you will have good results overall from your parts.

That being said, I have to say that I have had the opposite results from the EBC rotors, EBC pads, Hawk pads. I have had several customers over the years that ordered their products and had bad short lived results from them. Now, whether this is due to incomplete brake system servicing overall or overall product quality, I can't speak to, but it is worth mentioning.

In the end, regardless of parts used, make sure to service the complete brake system like you have and you are more than likely going to have good results with the StopTech products. Especially when used with the Posiquiet pads, those pads are great quality products.
 

HiTechRedneck

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I used drilled & slotted for many years (won't mention brand) with 0 issues on my supercharged Harley truck. I found the most critical part for success is how you bed the pads to the rotors right after installation.
I would think the pads should come with break in instructions - check that out.
You have to get them really hot and stinky!!! LOL
 

Chris@FreedomMotorsports

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I used drilled & slotted for many years (won't mention brand) with 0 issues on my supercharged Harley truck. I found the most critical part for success is how you bed the pads to the rotors right after installation.
I would think the pads should come with break in instructions - check that out.
You have to get them really hot and stinky!!! LOL

Agreed^^^

Proper bedding of the pads to the rotors is fairly easy. Once the installation is done you should find a place to be able to get up to 30-35mph, then HARD break down to about 15-20mph WITHOUT stopping completely. Then get up to between 40-45mph and HARD brake down to 15-20 without stopping completely. Repeat this cycle for every 10mph interval up to about 70-75mph, but be sure not to stop completely. If you stop completely during one of those cycles, you can cause hot spots in the rotors that could cause future problems. Once this cycling is done, ride around fairly easy to give the brakes a chance to cool back down and then park the truck and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving again. Please note, during this bedding in process, you WILL smell the brakes burning, but that is not a problem, it is the pads bedding in, they do need to get good and hot to properly bed into the rotors.
 
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