ajstar89
Full Access Member
Hey Everyone,
I did a plug change last night on my 2013 6.2 with 75,000 miles. Thought I would post my notes and steps for everyone who takes on the Job in the future to have and hopefully make it easier for them. It was exactly what I thought, 4 easy ones and 4 hard ones, and the others were meh. I used for OEM plugs and checked the gaps, which were surprisingly accurate out of the box from ford. Gaps should be between 0.041 and 0.047 in per the service manual. I personally split the difference there.
Service of plugs
8 top plugs:
notes:
The back plugs are the hardest but not that bad. I used a 5 in extension for most of them and a 3 in extension where needed in the back.
Bottom 8 plugs:
notes:
The front two on the passenger sider are the more difficult ones for that side, and the closest and furtherest from the firewall on the driver side are the more difficult on that side. The hardest cylinder was the passenger most front plug. its next to the shock tower. Nothing a extension and wobble joint won't fix. To be honest the hardest part of that cylinder is reinstalling the new plug. All they other cylinders I used a 10in or greater extension and got them no problem. The only other one I used a wobble on was the drivers side by the firewall, just to get around it easier.
Overall Job notes:
This is a true 4.5 hour job for your first time doing it IMO. I also recommend ordering replacement plug wires they are only $7 on TASCA. Mine arc welded onto the plugs and got stock, one actually broke when I was removing it. Twisting motion helps remove them, but often isn't enough and I'm not a fan of WD40 there like others recommend. I can't imagine trying to grab an oily plug wire that is stuck. I was also very disappointed in the quality of bolts ford uses on this engine. Some of mine have already started to rust. I never had that on by Audi's or Subaru Sti's, but it is what it is with that stuff I guess.
*note do not use this post as a service manual, these are my notes and steps, not an official ford repair manual, so work on your truck at your own risk.
I did a plug change last night on my 2013 6.2 with 75,000 miles. Thought I would post my notes and steps for everyone who takes on the Job in the future to have and hopefully make it easier for them. It was exactly what I thought, 4 easy ones and 4 hard ones, and the others were meh. I used for OEM plugs and checked the gaps, which were surprisingly accurate out of the box from ford. Gaps should be between 0.041 and 0.047 in per the service manual. I personally split the difference there.
Service of plugs
8 top plugs:
- disconnect battery terminal
- 1 remove air box and air filter system. The air box has two bolts and comes off really easy.
- Next remove bolts that hold each coil
- Remove coil
- remove plug
- install plug - don't forget anti seize on the threads, also manual says to put the torque spec at 104 in-lbs but i prefer hand tight with a grunt or two.
- Reinstall coil and plug bolts
- Install air box and filer system again
notes:
The back plugs are the hardest but not that bad. I used a 5 in extension for most of them and a 3 in extension where needed in the back.
Bottom 8 plugs:
- remove plug wire boot- be careful... these stick to the plug.
- remove the plug
- install the plug
- reinstall plug wire boot - they are designed to click when installed but don't always do.
- reconnect negative battery terminal
notes:
The front two on the passenger sider are the more difficult ones for that side, and the closest and furtherest from the firewall on the driver side are the more difficult on that side. The hardest cylinder was the passenger most front plug. its next to the shock tower. Nothing a extension and wobble joint won't fix. To be honest the hardest part of that cylinder is reinstalling the new plug. All they other cylinders I used a 10in or greater extension and got them no problem. The only other one I used a wobble on was the drivers side by the firewall, just to get around it easier.
Overall Job notes:
This is a true 4.5 hour job for your first time doing it IMO. I also recommend ordering replacement plug wires they are only $7 on TASCA. Mine arc welded onto the plugs and got stock, one actually broke when I was removing it. Twisting motion helps remove them, but often isn't enough and I'm not a fan of WD40 there like others recommend. I can't imagine trying to grab an oily plug wire that is stuck. I was also very disappointed in the quality of bolts ford uses on this engine. Some of mine have already started to rust. I never had that on by Audi's or Subaru Sti's, but it is what it is with that stuff I guess.
*note do not use this post as a service manual, these are my notes and steps, not an official ford repair manual, so work on your truck at your own risk.
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