Ford Raptor Forum

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2012 Silver Screw most options, mide perch, HID's, resonator delete and magnapack exhaust lightning style exit, 5 Star Tune on SCT touchscreen Xtreme, AFE stage 2 CAI, black Fuel Octanes, LED tails,2-10" Sundown Audio Subs, Audiobahn 2200w amp.

It's an assembly line engine it really has no break in period.


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2010 SVT Raptor #1949 - FRPP HOT ROD CAMS, Airaid CAI, STAINLESS WORKS L/T AND MID-PIPE, BASSANI CAT BACK, AND TROYER PERFORMANCE 93 OCTANE TUNE.
2003 SVT Lightning #0894- SOLD
1985 F-150 RCSB I-6- SOLD

I don't agree with this. Just because its built down through an assembly line does not mean that there isn't a break in period for new tight clearanced parts to seat into, create grooves, that will ultimately create microscopic shavings that you can easily see in your oil.

if that was true, then i believe that the hand built ferrari motors do not require any oil at all.

With that said I do not believe in break in additives.

Not to be confused with engine assembly oil, which is meant to be used when your assembling a fresh motor so its not without lubrication on initial start up.

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"Morituri te salutamus"

Myself I would not be caught dead without at min. 2qts of break in oil in my tool box. I keep it in the same box as my set of sky hooks & spare muffler bearings in case one gets a flat spot. And I only use left hand wrenches on my Ford truck their the best!

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Some days the Dragon wins.
2011 Inferno Orange Camaro SS
1980 CJ-5 Jeep Fully Restored
1996 Harley Heritadge 2002 Harley Roadking CVO
2005 Ford Ranger Level 2

Ha I hope you keep some blinker fluid in that box as well.

and never never leave home without 2 muffler bearings... LOL

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Custom air intake, middle perch setting, full SW exhaust w/chambered mufflers, 2 xtra 02 bosses for my UHEGO monitor, front and rear ADD bumpers, SCT tuner,
http://www.hitz106fm.com/index.php
Porcelain Black... Go Detroit!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9LCHgpzfxQ

Never leave home without it!


OP: Bah and humbug on break in. I change my oil every 1000-3000 miles anyways. First oil change is always done before 1000 miles.

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2008 Shelby GT500 (full race car)
2008 Shelby Terlingua V6 S/C 464rwhp
2011 Raptor PreRunner - Outlaw Raptor Long Travel, Caged and Street Legal
2012 Raptor SCrew Blue - Kings, Outlaw Raptor Bump Stop Kit

SNK is that your muffler? It's a good thing you replaced that bearing, with the way the rest of it looks. If you hadn't you might not get any air flow and would have to replace your Flux Capacitor.

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The UAV (Urban Assault Vehicle): 2010 Tux Black 6.2, Top Perch, ADD Stealth Bumper, Rigid 40" E Series, Vision X Solstices, Volant Cold Air Intake, Blue SVT Vent, Dumped Magnaflow Magnapack

On every new car and truck I have bought over the years, which is many. I make the dealer give me a flat of oil filters as part of the purchase deal.
I just drive it 200 to 300 miles, on whatever oil was in it from the factory, then change it and use my fav oil. I will drive it another 500 to 1000 miles, and change it again. Then just regualr oil change intervals after that.
I like to get the junk drained out that is in the oil during break in.
I also make my drain plug a magnetic one on the first oil change.
I but a small powerful magnet, and glue it to the drain plug when I have it out. Ket it dry a couple hours, then put the plug back in. Obviously do this when you can leave your vehicle sit for a couple of hours.

I also do not believe in babying an engine too much during break in, some full throttle accelerations to put some pressure on the rings.

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my creative writing skills are nonexistent so put the . , and what ever else is needed in it's place
proud to be loud
2011 Can-Am outlander HMF and chip
2012 Ford Raptor Stainless Works Headers Xpipe true duel SW S-type muffler