Trails - Part II

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JP7

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The first post on this subject covered basics, and some advice for hill climbing. Between hills, often a river crossing will be encountered, as well as rocky terrain. On all types of trails, ruts will be found and need to be navigated.

Overview/Description:
Water crossings involve very little skill as the Raptor should simply walk right through it. Knowledge of the depth of water, including depths at different times of year, is paramount in avoiding a flooding out of the motor condition.
Rocky terrain crossing consists of very slow approaches to obstacles, and will typically require an experienced spotter to assist in preventing damage to the undercarriage or drivetrain.
Ruts are grooves in the trail created by other trucks. These need to be navigated successfully in order to make it through with the group you are in. Some can be quite deep, or narrow - so accomodations for navigating these types of trails with the wide-ass Raptor will take some trial and error.

Do's/Don'ts, Tips/Tricks
Water Crossing
1. Generally, two types of water crossings will be encountered offroad. Rocky crossings, and mud or silty crossings.
2. Any water crossing should be attempted slowly, and knowledge of the depth and hazards should be established prior to any attemps.
3. Understand the height of the truck, and be aware that the radiator fans will bathe the motor in mud and water if the depth exceeds 24 inches. I`ve done it a few times - and consequently had to clean out the motor area using a garden hose (and steam cleaner).
4. `Splashing`into a mudhole or water crossing at high speed can cause moisture to enter the air intake assembly, causing havoc with a few things. People using the CAI aftermarket systems should be especially cautious in water as the open filters are very susceptible to moisture in the engine compartment. Even stock intakes have an inlet through the side vent above the driver side wheelwell - if the water, or splash, is too deep - you could find it makes its way into the air filter resivoir.
5. When fording a water crossing, be aware that any reduction in speed or stoppage of forward motion will result in a wake of water bypassing the Raptor from behind. This can amount to 6-12 inches of height in addition to the depth you are traversing. Again - be mindful of the depth, and realize slowing down can cause the rad fans to bathe everything under the hood.
6. Rocks can be a real pain in the ass as most stuff underwater is covered in slippery, slimy goo. Attempt hazards slowly at first, then with a little momentum to "bounce" over it if an alternate route can't be found.
7. Be mindful when playing in the water, of all the "sealed" bearings that have the potential to take on water when submersed. Axles are the main concern, but brakes, sensors and electronics are all items that should be monitored. The differentials should be checked after a water run - and plan to change the fluid. If water got in, you will likely see a green duckshit looking fluid there and thats not good to drive on.

Rock Crawling
1. First - Beware! Rock crawling is slow and patience consuming work. It also gives the truck a workout - and damage to your undercarriage is likely. Unless you carry spare driveshafts or U-joints - approach with caution.
2. Axle Wrap - Raptors were provided with a loose suspension to take on high speed bumps and Baja style terrain. The downside of this is that they are prone to axle wrap which is not a rock crawling friendly thing. Forcing your truck up rock covered hills may invoke pressures and angles on it which could snap U-joints or worse - a driveshaft. {more info on axle wrap in the "Rear end binding...." thread - hopefully Birdman, Bo, Ironman or someone else more skilled than I can edit this and post a link to the video here...}
3. Rock crawling will certainly teach you where your boots are - having a spotter (that knows what they are doing) is very beneficial.
4. Use of the rear diff locker is a given - knowing how much the truck can flex (hanging tires in the air) will help. I've found that a 36" obstacle approached with the front will lift the rear tire off the ground approximatley 2".
5. Obviously, rock covered terrain or hills cannot be approached with speed. Study the terrain, and plan to place your tires in the optimal places to continue forward movement. Slow approach, and careful selection of which rocks to traverse over will get you the furthest with minimal pain.
6. Rocks can move - be prepared and have a contingency approach.
7. Protect the rear drive shaft at all times! This is crucial as it is the most unprotected part of the truck.
8. Know your wheelbase length... A rocky trail that a Jeep or Warriors Bronco can pass through - will be a lot different in a truck with a longer wheelbase. Trying to follow shorter vehicles may result in damage to the underbody. It's pretty tough, but not bulletproof.
 
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KaiserM715

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T
5. When fording a water crossing, be aware that any reduction in speed or stoppage of forward motion will result in a wake of water bypassing the Raptor from behind. This can amount to 6-12 inches of height in addition to the depth you are traversing. Again - be mindful of the depth, and realize slowing down can cause the rad fans to bathe everything under the hood.

Agreed. You need to keep the bow wave moving in front of the vehicle.
 

IRONMAN

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Here's a chart that JP7 and I put together. If you have things to add let me know.

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swoop1156

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Doesn't the E-Locker disengage at 15mph unless in Off-Road Mode? On and Off-Road "sport" mode does what you said in your chart, aside from changing the ABS to the off-road mode spec. Tow/Haul mode is also useful for engine braking. I use it when I have advance notice of an impending slow-down.

Lastly, you can use Off-Road Mode on the street, but it's not very economical. I use it sometimes just ******** around to feel the difference in the pedal and to stay accustomed to how my truck responds in different environments. Off-Road Mode can only be engaged below 5mph, but can be dis-engaged at any speed.
 

Madcowranch

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I think he's not recommending ORM on snow and ice because it induces wheel spin more easily. Pretty sure the e-locker dissengages at 25mph when not in ORM, not 15.
 

IRONMAN

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I think he's not recommending ORM on snow and ice because it induces wheel spin more easily. Pretty sure the e-locker dissengages at 25mph when not in ORM, not 15.

Yes in our manuals it clearly states 25mph for e-locker in standard mode
 

swoop1156

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There goes me trying to remember things. :) You should also toss on there that any change in drive mode will reset the TCS.

If I am in 4x4, with TCS in sport, and go back to 2wd, the TCS will be fully functional again.
 

IRONMAN

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There goes me trying to remember things. :) You should also toss on there that any change in drive mode will reset the TCS.

If I am in 4x4, with TCS in sport, and go back to 2wd, the TCS will be fully functional again.

Sounds good.
I would also like peoples scenarios in modes, like for example Bo said he likes desert running in 2w with E-locker and ORM engaged. Sorry Bo if I got it wrong but that's what I also want that way it give people ideas for settings in different situations. Rock climbing, mudding, deep sand, ect.
 
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JP7

JP7

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Doesn't the E-Locker disengage at 15mph unless in Off-Road Mode? On and Off-Road "sport" mode does what you said in your chart, aside from changing the ABS to the off-road mode spec. Tow/Haul mode is also useful for engine braking. I use it when I have advance notice of an impending slow-down.

Lastly, you can use Off-Road Mode on the street, but it's not very economical. I use it sometimes just ******** around to feel the difference in the pedal and to stay accustomed to how my truck responds in different environments. Off-Road Mode can only be engaged below 5mph, but can be dis-engaged at any speed.

Yeah - ORM doesn't hurt the truck on the street, but Ford probably put the disclaimer in the manual because of the increased yaw, altered ABS braking and other little goodies changing the "idiot-proof" way vehicles are being produced today, reducing driver skill. The thought process is probably - if off-road and you wipe it out in a corner, you take out some shrubbery and a small tree. If on road, and wipe it out in a corner, you could take out a bunch of kids waiting for the schoolbus...

I screw around with it in town too sometimes, and it delivers much better engine braking than T/H mode, but also uses more fuel as it don't like to shift before 4k RPM.
 
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