I know you have all been waiting so patiently for this. *****.
Stock Muffler Delete and Dumped After Resonator
Parts: 3" OD Coupler, 3" ID Turn Down, and a 3" U-Bolt
This was extremely simple, other than removing the stock muffler assembly and some tweaking to get the coupler to fit. I had to cut the coupler every couple of inches around the edge I was sliding into the resonator pipe. After I made the cuts I bent the edge in so it would slide into the stock clamp on the resonator (I couldn't get the clamp open enough to fit the coupler in without making a minor modification). After that I bolted the turn down onto the coupler and then bolted the flange back together. I sprayed the turn down and coupler with some high heat flat black but that serves no purpose. It is really loud if you stomp on it and when you start off in first and second but idle is mild and so is cruising speed. The drone is obviously there but it isn't bad (I don't notice it if the windows are up and the radio is at a listening level).
Here are a couple of videos so you can get an idea of the sound. I will try and get more at different times so there is a better base to judge the sound.
2013 Raptor Resonator Only Cold Start - YouTube
CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna
Parts: Stubby Antenna
I know this is the mod you've been waiting to see. I almost couldn't post the picture for this one. Seriously though, the damn antenna is perfect height that it hits the garage door and pretty much every parking garage "warning sign" that exists. You all know this of course. As far as the loss of reception, I did not notice an initial change but I will continue to monitor different stations. That's pollen on the truck in this picture btw... fml
Update: There is a lack of reception now for almost all of the channels but my solution is to turn off HD Radio. The only issue I had was the constant in and out of HD Radio which was annoying. I primarily utilize Pandora via Bluetooth so I am not too concerned with this problem.
Blacked Out Edges on Tail Lights
Parts: Two Bottles Dupli-Color Universal Black, needle or injector of some sort, and Black Spray Paint
This was a mod that I thought was going to be a little easier than it actually was. First off, asking CVS for a syringe regardless of my excuse was a mistake. I thought they were going to call the cops on me. I ended up buying an infant medicine injector and sticking a paper clip in the end in order to heat it up and mold the tip down to a smaller diameter. I ended up using about two full bottles of the Dupli-Color Universal Black in order to make sure I had it filled down to the crack. The paint did not stick well to the sides so I taped off the lenses and hit it with two coats of some flat black I had lying around. Worked perfectly and it looks great. Awesome mod that makes a big difference. Downside: I now need a new comforter because I spilled an entire bottle of enamel on it. Oh well.
Amber Mirror Reflector Tinted and LEDs Installed
Parts: Black Lens Tint, Gloss Clear Coat, and Two 4" LED Strips (Amber)
This was a simple mod that ended up being a pain in the ass. Disassembling the mirror was simple with Ironmans video. I used the existing turn signal wires in the housing. The back of the reflector had to be cut out and I also had to cut out a notch in the mirror so that the reflector would sit flush again. I had a hell of a time getting the lens tint to look right. After starting over, twice, I finally got it on in an even finish. I applied two coats and then applied three coats of clear. I still need to buff the clear but I was waiting for it to cure some more. During the day they are not that noticeable as the lens tint is fairly dark but at night they are clearly visible.
Update: I swapped out the amber LEDs with the white ones. They are much brighter and still come through amber due to the reflector.
2013 Raptor Mirror LEDs - YouTube
Rear Emblem Trim Color Match and Billet Badge
Parts: Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Gray (8oz Spray), Gloss Clear Coat, Billet Badge
I could not stand the chrome on the rear Ford emblem. Removal is simple but make sure you have a replacement emblem before you start this or else you will be driving around with just the trim piece for a while (I got a little anxious). I sanded the trim piece down with some 1000 grit sandpaper, hit it with two coats of primer, three coats of the dark shadow gray, and three coats of clear. After that I buffed it out to a nice smooth finish and reinstalled it. Finally received my Billet Badge. Not quite what I was going for, I thought the matte black would wrap all the way to the edges. Oh well, I might repaint the surround to a matte black. I'm undecided. A couple people have told me that the dark shadow gray helps tie the emblems in with the Ford logo.
Mid Perch
Parts: Spring Compression Tool from Local Auto Store
Following RPGs video this was very easy to do. It actually made me wonder how people pay shops to do it. I'd say it took me a couple of hours to complete but that is primarily because my 3/8" ratchet took a shit shortly after I started so I had to send the wife to pick up a new one. Got it aligned the following day and it wasn't off by much. Most people cannot notice the height difference but I can and that is all that matters. You all know the difference between low and mid perch so I am not going to post those pictures but I will include the alignment sheet... Primarily because I had to call the dealer to get the specs seeing as how the place I went did not have anything for the Raptor in their system. They ended up using the specs from the 2010 because they were so close to what the dealer gave me.
CravenSpeed .50 Cal Bullet Antenna
Parts: Antenna and Loc-Tite
This obviously replaced the old stubby antenna. I was going to put some loc-tite on the threads so this can't be stolen as easily but decided against it until I determine if I'm going to remove it on night runs so it doesn't block my light cannons and so there's no reflection. I did notice a slight increase in reception but not much. Good enough to turn HD radio back on.
AFE Stage II CAI Intake
Parts: Intake and Cover
Pretty simple install. I figured out at the end that the cover needed to go on at the beginning. This was after I was playing with my new Makita drill set and stripped the screws for the flange that the filter mounts to. End result: had to improvise. I thought the tube was going to be black but it wasn't, no biggy, I might paint it flat black down the road. The biggest gains I see from this right now are sound. I'm sure it will get even better once I get my SW headers installed.
iPad Mini Retina with MotionX GPS
Parts: iPad, Motion X GPS, Ram Tablet Mount, and Dual XGPS160 Receiver
For now I put the ram mount closer to the driver so I can use it if I want. For a run I'll put it somewhere that my copilot can use easier if I have one. I haven't really had the chance to experiment with this yet but from what little I've played with it the setup seems to work pretty well. I went with the XGPS160 because I wanted to be able to monitor battery life and connectivity via my phone so that MotionX is constantly on, it also has faster updating of location. I put a dual USB port in the 12V socket so I can keep the iPad plugged in along with something else. On runs I will probably switch the iPad to a center console USB so that I can plug the GPS receiver and my GoPro into the dash. The dual USB socket is a cheap chinese piece off eBay. I bought 5 just in case it takes a shit. The only nice thing about this one is that it's small enough to leave in and close the cap.
SCT Tuner with 5Star Tunes
Parts: Tuner and Tunes
Simple and straight forward. Loading the tune was kinda odd at first. Makes the truck do some crazy shit. I ordered 87 Eco and 93 Perf for just the CAI and stock headers. I used the other three tunes for CAI and SW Headers and Exhaust (93 Perf, 87 Eco, and 87 Tow). The change this makes to the truck is amazing. Even during normal driving conditions. I can't wait to actually get on it and test it out.
Whelen Vertex Rear Facing Ambers
Parts: Lights and Flanges
I went this route so that I could keep the truck looking clean and stock. I will post the link for the how to when it is done and approved. I am thoroughly impressed with how they turned out and would recommend these lights to anyone. Installation wasn't that bad either although cutting into the cab with a hole-saw was a bit intimidating.
Click Here for the Write Up
Ford Raptor Whelen Vertex Rear Facing Ambers - YouTube
DeeZee Tailgate Assist
Parts: Tailgate Assist
Straight forward install. Instructions were shit. Took me a lot longer than it should have to figure out the damn nutsert thing. Overall no issues and a good simple mod.
MasterLock Tailgate Lock
Parts: Lock
$15 mod that may save me $1500. Worth it.
VisionX Light Cannons with SDHQ No Cut Hood Mounts
Parts: Lights and Mounts
No picture can do these lights justice. They put out a monstrous amount of light. The installation of the SDHQ No Cut Hood Mounts was a pain in the ass. Here's a few tips before you tackle this: Make sure to remove the hood strut for the side you're working on, buy a 10mm ratchet wrench, spray a little spot on the hood bracket so that you can line it up exactly where it was before, and get someone to help you. I finished the driver's side after an undisclosed amount of time. Then I went to buy a ratcheting wrench and the passenger side went much smoother.
I want to bring up two concerns that have been discussed with these lights and that I also had before installing them. One, blockage of light by antenna. There is some light blocked off to the right side but it's simply overthrow of the light. The main purpose of these is a direct beam of awesome and that is not hindered. Two, reflection of the hood, antenna, or hood vents. I wouldn't call any of it reflection but rather just an illuminated area. The antenna doesn't refract enough light for me to even notice while driving. The hood and vents are lit up but they are not reflecting any light and are not a distraction to me. Both of these concerns I have heard discussed many times and I would have to say IMHO that both are busted.
Just Stock HIDs
Just Light Cannons
Light Cannons and Stock HIDs
Roll-X
Parts: Roll-X
This was a lot easier to install than I expected. You'll see in the open picture that the driver's side rail has an indentation on it. Not to big of a deal as far as function but for what these cost I expect to have it in perfect condition when I put it on. I don't think it was a shipping issue either. I've emailed Morrie so we'll see if I can get a replacement. The rubber seal on the sides will flatten out over time, I let it sit in the some for a couple days to expedite the process. I tried to heat it up with a heat gun and smash it down but it wouldn't budge. We'll see if it changes with time. The ends of the rails were also brutally cut. It looks like they paint an entire strip and then cut the lengths they need, leaving the cut end as raw metal. I'm gonna hit it with some spray paint to cover it up but will wait to see if the rail gets replaced or not. Personally, great cover and exactly what I've wanted but I think the QAQC could be a lot higher.
Rigid D2 Fog Light Kit
Parts: Lights and Brackets
Didn't have many issues with this install like some have. The brackets lined up about perfectly or I guess I should say my bumper is lined up perfectly. I went with all driving pattern because when I was looking at the output files from Rigid, the wide pattern seemed like it was limiting the light's capabilities. Compare them for yourself but I feel like wide pattern is wasting your money. Flood is good if you have a need for it. I will have the 4" spots in the center and the light cannons for my distance so when I installed these I spent a lot of time getting them adjusted to cover forward with the inboard lights and slightly angled on the outboard. These throws a lot more light at an angle than having a wide or fog pattern. I used some contrasting spray paint to mark the holes. This is a hell of a lot easier than trying to mark them with a marker or a punch. Hit them with some flat black after it dries and you'll never notice (you probably could leave it as you can't see the brackets unless you're under the truck). Holy hell do these throw out some light! Def a must do for lighting if you want to keep the stock bumper!
Stock HIDs
All Four D2s
All Four D2s and Stock HIDs
All Four D2s, Stock HIDs, and Light Cannons
Rigid 4" E-Series License Plate Kit
Parts: Lights and Bracket
These were pretty easy to install. Rigid sends some decent instructions with their stuff. The bumperettes are a PITA to get back on and with the way they're designed they probably shouldn't even be taken off. I went with this kit because I have to run a front plate in VA but I will probably switch to a 20" once I go back home to IN. The light output is good but nothing I would have to get to be happy. Rigid sent an older light for one of them so there is a clear difference between the two lights. Chris is working on getting it corrected. This is the benefit of buying from someone reputable and a reputable product. These definitely complete the look of the bumper with the D2s. My only complaint is I had to remove the license plate holder because it covered up part of the lights. Even just the plate by itself covers the lips on the lights but it won't block anything. Not much you can really do about that because they're isn't much room to work with.
New Door Detent
Parts: Door Detent Kit
Simple install as long as you follow the instructions. They say to remove the rubber piece on the driver's side and only to peel it back on the passenger's side, well I suggest you only peel it back for both sides because it's a bitch to put back. They recommend putting a string on the old one to help thread the new one into the hole, DO IT, it'll make it a lot easier.
Stock Full Door Open
Stock Partially Open Door
New Door Detent Fully Open
New Door Detent Half-Way Open
New Door Detent Partially Open
Anzo Bed Lights
Parts: Bed Lights
These were really easy to install especially since I used the 3M tape that comes on the back of them. I wired them into the parking lights so that I wouldn't accidentally leave them on. These are really bright and at a great price. Mounted the switch that was included with the kit into the existing hole for the factory bed extender, fits perfectly.
Onboard Air and Train Horns
Parts: Hornblaster's 540 Train Horn Kit, Air Zenith Digital Pressure Gauge, Roush Vent Gauge Mount, Various Air Fittings and Mounting Pieces
When it comes to train horns and onboard air, bigger is always better. Only downside to this kit is the size of the 5 gallon tank but the flip side of that is having a 5 gallon tank. Installation wasn't too bad. Routing the air line down the frame was the hardest part. I went with the Air Zentih pressure gauge so I didn't have to run an airline through the firewall and the digital gauge looks better and tells me the voltage. I had a decent bracket made up for the train horns in the front but I had to modify them once I installed my bumper as the winch took up a lot of room I was using. Right now the compressor and tank are mounted in the bed because it is probably the safest place and I need to be able to keep my spare under the truck when I'm not on runs. Eventually I will be getting an XRD bed cage and I will mount it to that in a cleaner fashion. I installed a small momentary push button switch on the dash to the left of the NAV. Did I forget to mention, these ******* are LOUD!
VHF Radio
Parts: TYT TH9000 VHF Radio and Antenna
I mounted in the center console because I wanted to keep the interior of the truck as clean as possible. I ran some cat 5 down to the kick panel on the driver's side so I can plug the microphone in when I want to use it. The audio is routed up to the center speaker in the dash via a spliced 3.5mm headphone jack. I originally had a DPDT On/On switch that had the factory audio and the VHF audio routed up to the center speaker that I could switch. Unfortunately I could not get it to work and the dealer stole my switch when sabotaging my truck and I just haven't pursued it any further. The center speaker sucks anyway. I started out with a magnetic mount but after Snoball (antenna was knocked off countless times) I decided to switch to a permanent NMO mount and a shorter antenna. I put an NMO cover on it when I'm not using the radio and most people don't even notice it.
ADD Race Series R Front Bumper
Parts: Bumper, 10 Rigid D2s, 2 Rigid SRM, and a Recon 10500 Winch
I fell in love with this bumper the first time I saw it. I went with 10 Rigid D2s in driving beam pattern because I like the look of the multiple lights and I faced the outboard lights further out so it encompasses a large viewing area. For me, driving beam was ideal because I didn't need the distance due to the hood mounted cannons and the light tower cannons that are in the near future. I didn't want the SRM lights but ADD sent it with the cutouts so I kind of had no option. Personally, they're worthless. I might use them for ambient light if I was outside the truck and that's about it. Once again, Snoball dictated a mod purchase. The winch would have been handy at Snoball and after sinking the truck in a small mud hole I figured it was a wise investment. I went with the Recon based on other member's experiences and so far it has held up well. It's a great winch for a great price. I did shorten up the synthetic line and put on a factor 55 prolink.
Front Whelen Vertex
Parts: 2 Whelen Vertex Amber and Black Flanges
This was a just because mod. I've used my vertex in a flashing pattern many times when helping someone out who broke down. Same as the install before but a little easier for routing wires and drilling. I ran some 16 gauge 3 wire through the firewall and back to the switch I installed for the rear facing so I can control all of them at the same time. The fronts are alternated from the back (when the front right flashes the back left is flashing).
Extra Switches
Parts: sPOD Universal System with The Source and Custom Switches
I saw someone post a picture of this and then couldn't find it so I did a lot of research for this one. This system is popular among the Jeep community. For me, it was not worth my time to design my own system and I knew there was no way I could make one look this good and work as flawless. Mounting above the sunglass holder wasn't hard. They provide a template that I centered, marked, scored with a utility knife, and then cut the plastic out behind with an oscillating tool. Switches snap in and then the wire is routed down the A pillar through the firewall on the passenger side. There is more room for mounting The Source on that side plus it's next to the factory pass through wires. I ordered the custom switches to give it that specialized look. They also look a lot nicer than the standard switch covers that are provided and are well worth the extra money. Now I can open up The Source and plug in, remove, or change whatever I want by simply unscrewing the terminal.
Window Tint
Parts: 20% Tint
Paid a chinaman $65 and he put 20% tint on the front two windows to match the rear. One of the best tint jobs I've ever had done. Hard to see inside with all the windows up but no issues seeing out. I think it was 3M or lumar. Can't remember.
NAV-TV
Parts: NAV-TV Module
Paid another chinaman some money and he sent me this nifty box. Install was simple and straight forward due to his Youtube videos. I was skeptical about the money this costs at first but I think it was well spent. I use the front camera quite often for parking and navigating tight spots.
Bed D-Rings
Parts: 4 D-Rings
Had to buy a T45? to remove the bed bolts. Using an impact helps. These cost less than $15 and are awesome if you don't have a bed rack. I initially installed them so I could secure my spare for the Snoball. I've since used them for securing countless items.
Headers and Muffler
Parts: Stainless Works Catless Headers Factory Connect and Turbo S Tube Muffler
I installed these myself. Write Up Here Seriously consider what you're getting yourself into. Overall, worth it though. Sound is awesome. I originally went from the y pipe to the muffler and dumped it under the cab. The drone was awful. I had a shop take the factory pipes after the muffler and weld them on. Looks stock, definitely doesn't sound like it. Drone is better but I will probably install the Corsa down the road.
Videos:
Y Pipe Only - No Muffler
http://youtu.be/9t1X9F59bRE
Single Turbo S Tube Muffler with Stock Exit (Sorry about the air compressor)
http://youtu.be/wwkOU0TEkf0
X Pipe Only - No Mufflers
http://youtu.be/zmNGF1iaH8g
X Pipe and Dual Turbo S Tube Mufflers with Stock Exit
http://youtu.be/GcoCQLTpPkg
Stock Muffler Delete and Dumped After Resonator
Parts: 3" OD Coupler, 3" ID Turn Down, and a 3" U-Bolt
This was extremely simple, other than removing the stock muffler assembly and some tweaking to get the coupler to fit. I had to cut the coupler every couple of inches around the edge I was sliding into the resonator pipe. After I made the cuts I bent the edge in so it would slide into the stock clamp on the resonator (I couldn't get the clamp open enough to fit the coupler in without making a minor modification). After that I bolted the turn down onto the coupler and then bolted the flange back together. I sprayed the turn down and coupler with some high heat flat black but that serves no purpose. It is really loud if you stomp on it and when you start off in first and second but idle is mild and so is cruising speed. The drone is obviously there but it isn't bad (I don't notice it if the windows are up and the radio is at a listening level).
Here are a couple of videos so you can get an idea of the sound. I will try and get more at different times so there is a better base to judge the sound.
2013 Raptor Resonator Only Cold Start - YouTube
CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna
Parts: Stubby Antenna
I know this is the mod you've been waiting to see. I almost couldn't post the picture for this one. Seriously though, the damn antenna is perfect height that it hits the garage door and pretty much every parking garage "warning sign" that exists. You all know this of course. As far as the loss of reception, I did not notice an initial change but I will continue to monitor different stations. That's pollen on the truck in this picture btw... fml
Update: There is a lack of reception now for almost all of the channels but my solution is to turn off HD Radio. The only issue I had was the constant in and out of HD Radio which was annoying. I primarily utilize Pandora via Bluetooth so I am not too concerned with this problem.
Blacked Out Edges on Tail Lights
Parts: Two Bottles Dupli-Color Universal Black, needle or injector of some sort, and Black Spray Paint
This was a mod that I thought was going to be a little easier than it actually was. First off, asking CVS for a syringe regardless of my excuse was a mistake. I thought they were going to call the cops on me. I ended up buying an infant medicine injector and sticking a paper clip in the end in order to heat it up and mold the tip down to a smaller diameter. I ended up using about two full bottles of the Dupli-Color Universal Black in order to make sure I had it filled down to the crack. The paint did not stick well to the sides so I taped off the lenses and hit it with two coats of some flat black I had lying around. Worked perfectly and it looks great. Awesome mod that makes a big difference. Downside: I now need a new comforter because I spilled an entire bottle of enamel on it. Oh well.
Amber Mirror Reflector Tinted and LEDs Installed
Parts: Black Lens Tint, Gloss Clear Coat, and Two 4" LED Strips (Amber)
This was a simple mod that ended up being a pain in the ass. Disassembling the mirror was simple with Ironmans video. I used the existing turn signal wires in the housing. The back of the reflector had to be cut out and I also had to cut out a notch in the mirror so that the reflector would sit flush again. I had a hell of a time getting the lens tint to look right. After starting over, twice, I finally got it on in an even finish. I applied two coats and then applied three coats of clear. I still need to buff the clear but I was waiting for it to cure some more. During the day they are not that noticeable as the lens tint is fairly dark but at night they are clearly visible.
Update: I swapped out the amber LEDs with the white ones. They are much brighter and still come through amber due to the reflector.
2013 Raptor Mirror LEDs - YouTube
Rear Emblem Trim Color Match and Billet Badge
Parts: Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Gray (8oz Spray), Gloss Clear Coat, Billet Badge
I could not stand the chrome on the rear Ford emblem. Removal is simple but make sure you have a replacement emblem before you start this or else you will be driving around with just the trim piece for a while (I got a little anxious). I sanded the trim piece down with some 1000 grit sandpaper, hit it with two coats of primer, three coats of the dark shadow gray, and three coats of clear. After that I buffed it out to a nice smooth finish and reinstalled it. Finally received my Billet Badge. Not quite what I was going for, I thought the matte black would wrap all the way to the edges. Oh well, I might repaint the surround to a matte black. I'm undecided. A couple people have told me that the dark shadow gray helps tie the emblems in with the Ford logo.
Mid Perch
Parts: Spring Compression Tool from Local Auto Store
Following RPGs video this was very easy to do. It actually made me wonder how people pay shops to do it. I'd say it took me a couple of hours to complete but that is primarily because my 3/8" ratchet took a shit shortly after I started so I had to send the wife to pick up a new one. Got it aligned the following day and it wasn't off by much. Most people cannot notice the height difference but I can and that is all that matters. You all know the difference between low and mid perch so I am not going to post those pictures but I will include the alignment sheet... Primarily because I had to call the dealer to get the specs seeing as how the place I went did not have anything for the Raptor in their system. They ended up using the specs from the 2010 because they were so close to what the dealer gave me.
CravenSpeed .50 Cal Bullet Antenna
Parts: Antenna and Loc-Tite
This obviously replaced the old stubby antenna. I was going to put some loc-tite on the threads so this can't be stolen as easily but decided against it until I determine if I'm going to remove it on night runs so it doesn't block my light cannons and so there's no reflection. I did notice a slight increase in reception but not much. Good enough to turn HD radio back on.
AFE Stage II CAI Intake
Parts: Intake and Cover
Pretty simple install. I figured out at the end that the cover needed to go on at the beginning. This was after I was playing with my new Makita drill set and stripped the screws for the flange that the filter mounts to. End result: had to improvise. I thought the tube was going to be black but it wasn't, no biggy, I might paint it flat black down the road. The biggest gains I see from this right now are sound. I'm sure it will get even better once I get my SW headers installed.
iPad Mini Retina with MotionX GPS
Parts: iPad, Motion X GPS, Ram Tablet Mount, and Dual XGPS160 Receiver
For now I put the ram mount closer to the driver so I can use it if I want. For a run I'll put it somewhere that my copilot can use easier if I have one. I haven't really had the chance to experiment with this yet but from what little I've played with it the setup seems to work pretty well. I went with the XGPS160 because I wanted to be able to monitor battery life and connectivity via my phone so that MotionX is constantly on, it also has faster updating of location. I put a dual USB port in the 12V socket so I can keep the iPad plugged in along with something else. On runs I will probably switch the iPad to a center console USB so that I can plug the GPS receiver and my GoPro into the dash. The dual USB socket is a cheap chinese piece off eBay. I bought 5 just in case it takes a shit. The only nice thing about this one is that it's small enough to leave in and close the cap.
SCT Tuner with 5Star Tunes
Parts: Tuner and Tunes
Simple and straight forward. Loading the tune was kinda odd at first. Makes the truck do some crazy shit. I ordered 87 Eco and 93 Perf for just the CAI and stock headers. I used the other three tunes for CAI and SW Headers and Exhaust (93 Perf, 87 Eco, and 87 Tow). The change this makes to the truck is amazing. Even during normal driving conditions. I can't wait to actually get on it and test it out.
Whelen Vertex Rear Facing Ambers
Parts: Lights and Flanges
I went this route so that I could keep the truck looking clean and stock. I will post the link for the how to when it is done and approved. I am thoroughly impressed with how they turned out and would recommend these lights to anyone. Installation wasn't that bad either although cutting into the cab with a hole-saw was a bit intimidating.
Click Here for the Write Up
Ford Raptor Whelen Vertex Rear Facing Ambers - YouTube
DeeZee Tailgate Assist
Parts: Tailgate Assist
Straight forward install. Instructions were shit. Took me a lot longer than it should have to figure out the damn nutsert thing. Overall no issues and a good simple mod.
MasterLock Tailgate Lock
Parts: Lock
$15 mod that may save me $1500. Worth it.
VisionX Light Cannons with SDHQ No Cut Hood Mounts
Parts: Lights and Mounts
No picture can do these lights justice. They put out a monstrous amount of light. The installation of the SDHQ No Cut Hood Mounts was a pain in the ass. Here's a few tips before you tackle this: Make sure to remove the hood strut for the side you're working on, buy a 10mm ratchet wrench, spray a little spot on the hood bracket so that you can line it up exactly where it was before, and get someone to help you. I finished the driver's side after an undisclosed amount of time. Then I went to buy a ratcheting wrench and the passenger side went much smoother.
I want to bring up two concerns that have been discussed with these lights and that I also had before installing them. One, blockage of light by antenna. There is some light blocked off to the right side but it's simply overthrow of the light. The main purpose of these is a direct beam of awesome and that is not hindered. Two, reflection of the hood, antenna, or hood vents. I wouldn't call any of it reflection but rather just an illuminated area. The antenna doesn't refract enough light for me to even notice while driving. The hood and vents are lit up but they are not reflecting any light and are not a distraction to me. Both of these concerns I have heard discussed many times and I would have to say IMHO that both are busted.
Just Stock HIDs
Just Light Cannons
Light Cannons and Stock HIDs
Roll-X
Parts: Roll-X
This was a lot easier to install than I expected. You'll see in the open picture that the driver's side rail has an indentation on it. Not to big of a deal as far as function but for what these cost I expect to have it in perfect condition when I put it on. I don't think it was a shipping issue either. I've emailed Morrie so we'll see if I can get a replacement. The rubber seal on the sides will flatten out over time, I let it sit in the some for a couple days to expedite the process. I tried to heat it up with a heat gun and smash it down but it wouldn't budge. We'll see if it changes with time. The ends of the rails were also brutally cut. It looks like they paint an entire strip and then cut the lengths they need, leaving the cut end as raw metal. I'm gonna hit it with some spray paint to cover it up but will wait to see if the rail gets replaced or not. Personally, great cover and exactly what I've wanted but I think the QAQC could be a lot higher.
Rigid D2 Fog Light Kit
Parts: Lights and Brackets
Didn't have many issues with this install like some have. The brackets lined up about perfectly or I guess I should say my bumper is lined up perfectly. I went with all driving pattern because when I was looking at the output files from Rigid, the wide pattern seemed like it was limiting the light's capabilities. Compare them for yourself but I feel like wide pattern is wasting your money. Flood is good if you have a need for it. I will have the 4" spots in the center and the light cannons for my distance so when I installed these I spent a lot of time getting them adjusted to cover forward with the inboard lights and slightly angled on the outboard. These throws a lot more light at an angle than having a wide or fog pattern. I used some contrasting spray paint to mark the holes. This is a hell of a lot easier than trying to mark them with a marker or a punch. Hit them with some flat black after it dries and you'll never notice (you probably could leave it as you can't see the brackets unless you're under the truck). Holy hell do these throw out some light! Def a must do for lighting if you want to keep the stock bumper!
Stock HIDs
All Four D2s
All Four D2s and Stock HIDs
All Four D2s, Stock HIDs, and Light Cannons
Rigid 4" E-Series License Plate Kit
Parts: Lights and Bracket
These were pretty easy to install. Rigid sends some decent instructions with their stuff. The bumperettes are a PITA to get back on and with the way they're designed they probably shouldn't even be taken off. I went with this kit because I have to run a front plate in VA but I will probably switch to a 20" once I go back home to IN. The light output is good but nothing I would have to get to be happy. Rigid sent an older light for one of them so there is a clear difference between the two lights. Chris is working on getting it corrected. This is the benefit of buying from someone reputable and a reputable product. These definitely complete the look of the bumper with the D2s. My only complaint is I had to remove the license plate holder because it covered up part of the lights. Even just the plate by itself covers the lips on the lights but it won't block anything. Not much you can really do about that because they're isn't much room to work with.
New Door Detent
Parts: Door Detent Kit
Simple install as long as you follow the instructions. They say to remove the rubber piece on the driver's side and only to peel it back on the passenger's side, well I suggest you only peel it back for both sides because it's a bitch to put back. They recommend putting a string on the old one to help thread the new one into the hole, DO IT, it'll make it a lot easier.
Stock Full Door Open
Stock Partially Open Door
New Door Detent Fully Open
New Door Detent Half-Way Open
New Door Detent Partially Open
Anzo Bed Lights
Parts: Bed Lights
These were really easy to install especially since I used the 3M tape that comes on the back of them. I wired them into the parking lights so that I wouldn't accidentally leave them on. These are really bright and at a great price. Mounted the switch that was included with the kit into the existing hole for the factory bed extender, fits perfectly.
Onboard Air and Train Horns
Parts: Hornblaster's 540 Train Horn Kit, Air Zenith Digital Pressure Gauge, Roush Vent Gauge Mount, Various Air Fittings and Mounting Pieces
When it comes to train horns and onboard air, bigger is always better. Only downside to this kit is the size of the 5 gallon tank but the flip side of that is having a 5 gallon tank. Installation wasn't too bad. Routing the air line down the frame was the hardest part. I went with the Air Zentih pressure gauge so I didn't have to run an airline through the firewall and the digital gauge looks better and tells me the voltage. I had a decent bracket made up for the train horns in the front but I had to modify them once I installed my bumper as the winch took up a lot of room I was using. Right now the compressor and tank are mounted in the bed because it is probably the safest place and I need to be able to keep my spare under the truck when I'm not on runs. Eventually I will be getting an XRD bed cage and I will mount it to that in a cleaner fashion. I installed a small momentary push button switch on the dash to the left of the NAV. Did I forget to mention, these ******* are LOUD!
VHF Radio
Parts: TYT TH9000 VHF Radio and Antenna
I mounted in the center console because I wanted to keep the interior of the truck as clean as possible. I ran some cat 5 down to the kick panel on the driver's side so I can plug the microphone in when I want to use it. The audio is routed up to the center speaker in the dash via a spliced 3.5mm headphone jack. I originally had a DPDT On/On switch that had the factory audio and the VHF audio routed up to the center speaker that I could switch. Unfortunately I could not get it to work and the dealer stole my switch when sabotaging my truck and I just haven't pursued it any further. The center speaker sucks anyway. I started out with a magnetic mount but after Snoball (antenna was knocked off countless times) I decided to switch to a permanent NMO mount and a shorter antenna. I put an NMO cover on it when I'm not using the radio and most people don't even notice it.
ADD Race Series R Front Bumper
Parts: Bumper, 10 Rigid D2s, 2 Rigid SRM, and a Recon 10500 Winch
I fell in love with this bumper the first time I saw it. I went with 10 Rigid D2s in driving beam pattern because I like the look of the multiple lights and I faced the outboard lights further out so it encompasses a large viewing area. For me, driving beam was ideal because I didn't need the distance due to the hood mounted cannons and the light tower cannons that are in the near future. I didn't want the SRM lights but ADD sent it with the cutouts so I kind of had no option. Personally, they're worthless. I might use them for ambient light if I was outside the truck and that's about it. Once again, Snoball dictated a mod purchase. The winch would have been handy at Snoball and after sinking the truck in a small mud hole I figured it was a wise investment. I went with the Recon based on other member's experiences and so far it has held up well. It's a great winch for a great price. I did shorten up the synthetic line and put on a factor 55 prolink.
Front Whelen Vertex
Parts: 2 Whelen Vertex Amber and Black Flanges
This was a just because mod. I've used my vertex in a flashing pattern many times when helping someone out who broke down. Same as the install before but a little easier for routing wires and drilling. I ran some 16 gauge 3 wire through the firewall and back to the switch I installed for the rear facing so I can control all of them at the same time. The fronts are alternated from the back (when the front right flashes the back left is flashing).
Extra Switches
Parts: sPOD Universal System with The Source and Custom Switches
I saw someone post a picture of this and then couldn't find it so I did a lot of research for this one. This system is popular among the Jeep community. For me, it was not worth my time to design my own system and I knew there was no way I could make one look this good and work as flawless. Mounting above the sunglass holder wasn't hard. They provide a template that I centered, marked, scored with a utility knife, and then cut the plastic out behind with an oscillating tool. Switches snap in and then the wire is routed down the A pillar through the firewall on the passenger side. There is more room for mounting The Source on that side plus it's next to the factory pass through wires. I ordered the custom switches to give it that specialized look. They also look a lot nicer than the standard switch covers that are provided and are well worth the extra money. Now I can open up The Source and plug in, remove, or change whatever I want by simply unscrewing the terminal.
Window Tint
Parts: 20% Tint
Paid a chinaman $65 and he put 20% tint on the front two windows to match the rear. One of the best tint jobs I've ever had done. Hard to see inside with all the windows up but no issues seeing out. I think it was 3M or lumar. Can't remember.
NAV-TV
Parts: NAV-TV Module
Paid another chinaman some money and he sent me this nifty box. Install was simple and straight forward due to his Youtube videos. I was skeptical about the money this costs at first but I think it was well spent. I use the front camera quite often for parking and navigating tight spots.
Bed D-Rings
Parts: 4 D-Rings
Had to buy a T45? to remove the bed bolts. Using an impact helps. These cost less than $15 and are awesome if you don't have a bed rack. I initially installed them so I could secure my spare for the Snoball. I've since used them for securing countless items.
Headers and Muffler
Parts: Stainless Works Catless Headers Factory Connect and Turbo S Tube Muffler
I installed these myself. Write Up Here Seriously consider what you're getting yourself into. Overall, worth it though. Sound is awesome. I originally went from the y pipe to the muffler and dumped it under the cab. The drone was awful. I had a shop take the factory pipes after the muffler and weld them on. Looks stock, definitely doesn't sound like it. Drone is better but I will probably install the Corsa down the road.
Videos:
Y Pipe Only - No Muffler
http://youtu.be/9t1X9F59bRE
Single Turbo S Tube Muffler with Stock Exit (Sorry about the air compressor)
http://youtu.be/wwkOU0TEkf0
X Pipe Only - No Mufflers
http://youtu.be/zmNGF1iaH8g
X Pipe and Dual Turbo S Tube Mufflers with Stock Exit
http://youtu.be/GcoCQLTpPkg
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