Best long term storage options?

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Chowder

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Newbie here. Question about storing my truck long term. In the next few months I am going to be placing an order for a Raptor and had a question about long term storage and hoping someone might have some good input.
I travel for work and it will be sitting for 10 months out of the year. I have someone that will take it out for a spin every few months, and I am pretty well educated on storing it. Such as keeping rodents out, topping off fluids, changing the oil, wiper blades ect. all that good stuff preparing to let it sit.

I live in the northeast where we have all 4 seasons, very hot to very cold. I have a weather tight, UN-insulated, 2 car barn that I will be making into a garage. Spray insulation, new garage doors, Sheetrock, plaster and redoing the concrete floor nicely etc.
The the temps outside can be anywhere from 15-95 degrees throughout the seasons. My main concern was temps, I have come to realize my concern should be more of humidity control. Money is somewhat of a concern, why am I buying a loaded Raptor for 65K and not paying to have it immaculately stored? Lets not get into the reasoning of the sickness in my head! By that I mean, I am not going to pay a dump load for a massive unit to keep it at a perfect 70 degrees 365 days out of the year.
I am thinking I can get by with a small portable A/C and heat unit that wont break the bank on initial and run cost and still keep it between 45-80 degrees. They will only have to run 3-4 months each a year, spring and fall are at an ok temp with none of them running.
The main thing I need is a dehumidifier most of the year. Any idea what it might cost to run these things in a new insulated garage? It is a standard size, 2 car garage space. Anyone out there know about HVAC or electrical?
Examples:

-Do I get a small, window 5000BTU aircon and run it on med-high or get a 12000BTU and run it on low, Same with the electric heater(gas, electric)?
-With the dehumidifier, I use a portable, commercial one at work that has one speed and keeps the room really dry. is too dry really bad and do they have % settings or motor speeds?
-I have seen the math formulas online to estimate the monthly run cost, but trying to figure them out overheats my brain. Any ideas on run cost for these units.
-Would I have better luck efficiency wise with a mini split unit and in the winter leave the temp at 55 and the summer at 77 and run a separate dehumidifier?
-What about baseboard heater?

My main goal is long term running cost. I would rather spend 4 grand MAX now on some system that might cost me 500 a year to run opposed to buying cheap portable units that I have to run on high 24/7 and cost me 2 grand in electricity every year. Anyone have an input on what type of set up I should look into?
 

Frank N

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you could leave it my house, I would drive it plenty...

I store a Porsche in similar conditions in NJ, you are overthinking it, IMO.

Just make sure the place has naturally venting so you don't create a real hot environment, (you can put a temp sensitive exhaust fan in) put it on jack stands so you don't get flat spots on the tires, throw a battery tender on it, a lot of mouse traps along the walls.

You can tarp it if you don't want dust covered after 10 months, I would change the oil BEFORE you start it up for the first time after sitting ten months. I would NOT have someone drive it every " couple of months".
 

mcote1

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Insulation is going to be key for you IMO. I see you mention spray insulation, I assume that means you are using the spray foam insulation. I would make sure you do it everywhere- in between studs in walls, ceiling, roof, etc. The more air tight you can make the building/room, the better off you will be.

Welcome to FRF and enjoy the truck when you get it!
 
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Chowder

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For spray insulation, I plan on having it professionally done, real insulation not the spray stuff in a can, to seal air leaks. Part of my madness is to keep my truck cherry. I am like 80 percent of raptor owners, it will never be taken off road. I also plan on keeping this truck 10+ years and maybe 2000k miles a year give or take. I am minorly OCD so all my toys and are MINT. Boats, atv's, sleds and such.
 

EricM

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I would NOT have someone drive it every " couple of months".

Why not? Driving it is the best thing you can do for it. All the seals get lubricated, the engine valve springs get a break from certain ones being fully compressed, along with particular cylinders being "open" to the atmosphere, tire sidewalls get exercised, which helps the sidewalls from cracking- etc, etc etc. I would agree that just starting it and letting it idle would be bad for it, but if it's driven far enough to get everything up to operating temperature for a while- that will be good for all the mechanical parts.
 

SZDZMTR

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buy a trickle charger for the battery and have it plugged in. This way your battery will be as good as new. Also get the undercarriage and anything metal spayed with AMSOIL HP Heavy Duty Metal Protector this way your truck underneath would look like new.
No need for humidifier and other stuff. Face it, you did not buy a 1920s Bugatti its a 21st century truck.
Truck cover? That would be it in my book. Welcome and best of luck. BTW my truck does not fit in the garage and i live in the north east too.
 

Frank N

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Why not? Driving it is the best thing you can do for it. All the seals get lubricated, the engine valve springs get a break from certain ones being fully compressed, along with particular cylinders being "open" to the atmosphere, tire sidewalls get exercised, which helps the sidewalls from cracking- etc, etc etc. I would agree that just starting it and letting it idle would be bad for it, but if it's driven far enough to get everything up to operating temperature for a while- that will be good for all the mechanical parts.

i do think it would be better to run it but only once every couple of months, IMO isnt enough. Sitting used motor oil is loaded with corrosive crap and moisture, recycling it every couple of months is not a good thing.

Two months can flat spot a tire.

I'd switch to full syn oil and throw a shot of oil in each cylinder after 10 months.

You also need a full tank of fuel, nonethanol, to avoid condensation.

And plug teh exhaust pipes. lol....
 
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