Upfitter Switches

I need some help figuring out the upfitter switches.

I understand about the pass-through wires that are hidden behind the glove box. I (think) understand that should I want to connect a light I'd run a wire from the light to the fuse box and another to the appropriate wire in the engine compartment. What I don't understand is do I then need to run a wire from the inside wire (behind the glove box) to the switch? If so, how do I get behind the switch panel.

Am I any where near being right?

the upfitter switches are already hot so to speak. #1 and #2 are 30a, 3 is 20a i think and #4 is 15amp.

You only need to tie them together behind the glove box if you want to wire something inside the engine compartment. If you are wiring something inside the car or behind the dash, your already hot.

Tying them together behind the glovebox only gives you hot wires in the engine bay


so to answer your question, the switches are hot right now. All you need to do is plug something into them.

Iron Creek said:

I need some help figuring out the upfitter switches.

I understand about the pass-through wires that are hidden behind the glove box. I (think) understand that should I want to connect a light I'd run a wire from the light to the fuse box and another to the appropriate wire in the engine compartment. What I don't understand is do I then need to run a wire from the inside wire (behind the glove box) to the switch? If so, how do I get behind the switch panel.

Am I any where near being right?

Click to expand...

What I did with my light bar driving lights is run one wire to chasis ground. Make sure it's a good ground in the engine compartment. The one I used is on the passenger fender. Then run the positive wire to the wire next to the glove box. Your raptor book that comes with the truck tells you which wire goes to which switch. Runs threw the fire wall on passenger side. Hook that up to that wire and your done. You don't have to wire to the switches. They are wired up already. Flip it on when nothing is wired up to it and it still lights up. It's very simple the way they designed it. Any questions let me know. Hope that helps. To get to the wires by the glove box go beside it and take the panel off that the door covers up when closed. A lot easier then laying on the floor underneath.

Here's my video I made, it might help. It also shows about the fuses.

YouTube - PASS THROUGH WIRES

GREAT video Ironman! Thank you!

Can I turn the #4 from a 10 to a 20 with no problems? Or the 30A #1 to a 40A with no problems?

Nope. You can go down in amperage, but not up. The wires are sized for only do much current.

They only thing you can do is use them to switch relays rated for the higher currents.

using higher amperage fuses than used by the manufacturer provides 2 problems. problem 1 will cause problem 2.

1) the oem wire used is rated at a specific amperage. higher amperage results in too much heat being transferred through the wire. this can cause melting of wires and a vehicle fire

2) if the result is melted wires or a fire in your vehicle, there will be no liability responsibility from the manufacturer whatsoever. since the cause of loss was directly an action from the end user (you) you are responsible for repairs.

now keep in mind, it is rare to find these cases but you never want to go above the rated amperage just for safetys sake. use relays with fuses and let the aux switch just power the relay.

Ok so aux switch #3 with the 15amp can't be used for a 40inch 240 watt led by my watt/amp calculation correct.

use a relay. i use aux 1 to power 8 relays. 2 40" lightbars, 2air compressors, hood mounted leds, disco lights, rear amber leds, and rock lights. a relay only requires about 200ma to operate. a rough estimate would allow you to use approx 150 relays all at the same time off aux 1. each of those relays are rated at 30 amps themselves.