2014 SCREW A/C-Heater Fan Blower Motor?

RedFive said:

I think for me it is actually the recirculation door. When I hit the re-circ button or max a/c nothing happens. Still brings in outside air and I think the actuator is fine but the post that drives the door open and closed when the actuator turns is what actually broke off. You pretty much have to remove the dash to get this thing unless anyone knows of any magic that will work.

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I found that my air re-circ isn't working either. I updated that in another thread, but forgot to update this one. I haven't looked into getting it repaired, but I assume it's not going to be cheap.

I think it runs around $800+. $85-$100 part and 6hrs labor I suspect. The easy one is $400. The main blend door behind the console is $1200. They have to drain the A/C lines is what I was told by a Ford Tech at the dealer 2 weeks ago. [emoji35]. Apparently it is becoming VERY common. They get dry and brittle and just crack from the torque of the actuator. The actuator use to fail first, then they upgrade d the gears inside so now the blend door cogs are breaking. My stupid brain says, oh I don’t know, steel or aluminum wouldn’t do this and plastic anything just sucks. Anything to save a nickel so they can make a Raptor $30k more than a normal F-150 and still use 99% of the same parts and design!


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I had the most expensive actuator done last year - that's the one that controls hot vs cold to the driver side - it is located right at the bottom of the dash behind the console and under the heater. Total cost was about $850 at the dealer. The other two should be significantly cheaper.

However, this sounds like the blend doors, that's going to be much more pricey as the heater unit itself may need to come out and will need to come apart... get them to change the actuators while in there as preventative maintenance - they are cheap, like $60 each

Same exact thing just happened to me, and it's like I'm looking in a mirror.

I’m curious, what was the temp outside when you put the blower on when this happened?


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wakko0o said:

I’m curious, what was the temp outside when you put the blower on when this happened?


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It was the middle of summer for me so probably 80 to 90 degrees. Being in Colorado, I'm wondering if our dry climate had more to do with it.

HORN HIGH ACES said:

It was the middle of summer for me so probably 80 to 90 degrees. Being in Colorado, I'm wondering if our dry climate had more to do with it.

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Thank you for quick reply. No I thought maybe it was on cold temps and turning up the fan at high caused the plastic to snap due to the torque. But that’s not the case. It’s a common occurrence. I’ve learn to just increase the blower speed slower. Can’t help it when I remote start the truck though, the blower goes on full blast defrost.


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This just happened to me yesterday after a remote start. The blower when full blast and broke the cog off the recirculation door. I had the horrible humming noise when I got into the truck. I took the blower motor off and sure enough its in there. I reinstalled the blower and it works fine but now my air is stuck open for outside air only. My premium care just expired last month so I'm annoyed with this. I'm not sure if it's worth the fix or not. Online research seems this is a common problem.

I was thinking of just fixing the blend door in the up position with a zip tie or something. If you put a mirror up in the hole after you remove the fan motor. It’s on the center dash side where the part broke off. Anyone thought of fixing it to stay in the rec position.

2014 Raptor 27,000 miles. Fan motor started howling like crazy, sounded like the truck was ready to explode. Did anyone find a fix for the noise, it is waking the dead at the local cemetery and scared the devil out of me! thanks