Where to get +12v remote turn on wire?

Hmmm interesting. Pics when done please.
Have never seen those.

Rog it's the same exact thing as the pic in post #28. you plug the black fuse holder in to the fuse box, plug the "stock" fuse back in to one terminal, and then another fuse for the accessory line which runs right out. It separates the circuits with 2 different fuses which is what I was concerned about. this way if my amp wire shorts it won't blow my ignition, just the accessory fuse.

BIRDMAN said:

Rog it's the same exact thing as the pic in post #28. you plug the black fuse holder in to the fuse box, plug the "stock" fuse back in to one terminal, and then another fuse for the accessory line which runs right out. It separates the circuits with 2 different fuses which is what I was concerned about. this way if my amp wire shorts it won't blow my ignition, just the accessory fuse.

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I'll have to keep this thing in mind, talk about easy.

IRONMAN said:

I'll have to keep this thing in mind, talk about easy.

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no kidding. it almost seems TOO easy. especially since i can get right behind that kick panel and pull the door sill off. did you have any trouble removing your door sills that time you pulled them off?

BIRDMAN said:

no kidding. it almost seems TOO easy. especially since i can get right behind that kick panel and pull the door sill off. did you have any trouble removing your door sills that time you pulled them off?

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They are kinda a bitch, the clamps have hooks in them so get close to the hook and pry with a screw driver gently.

IRONMAN said:

They are kinda a bitch, the clamps have hooks in them so get close to the hook and pry with a screw driver gently.

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roger that.

Fuse location I used for a switched 12v source ... only downside is now you can't put the fuse cover back on.

True that, I might just drill a small hole in the fuse box cover. I found some more good news... a factory placed hole in the fire wall inches from where I need to run the main 8ga power wire. I can just cut a slot in the factory rubber grommet plug and slide my wire right through and it pops out right near the fuse panel on the passenger side. No drilling, weather tight seal through a dull edge factory hole


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---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:55 PM ----------

ruffstuff said:

Fuse location I used for a switched 12v source ... only downside is now you can't put the fuse cover back on.

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is that the ignition fuse? what size fuse did you use for the remote wire? is it possible to use one of the 5-6 "spare" fuse locations instead?

BIRDMAN said:

is that the ignition fuse? what size fuse did you use for the remote wire? is it possible to use one of the 5-6 "spare" fuse locations instead?

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According to the owner's manual, the ignition switch is the 15 amp next to the one I'm using. The one I'm using is the delayed accessory (110V power point and AM/FM radio). Although, I'm not noticing any delay. I use it to run a digital voltmeter and it switches on and off with the ignition. Using a 10 amp fuse. I can't recall why I didn't use any of the spare fuse locations ... maybe no power running to them. I believe I used this fuse because it didn't cover up any other fuses.

ruffstuff said:

According to the owner's manual, the ignition switch is the 15 amp next to the one I'm using. The one I'm using is the delayed accessory (110V power point and AM/FM radio). Although, I'm not noticing any delay. I use it to run a digital voltmeter and it switches on and off with the ignition. Using a 10 amp fuse. I can't recall why I didn't use any of the spare fuse locations ... maybe no power running to them. I believe I used this fuse because it didn't cover up any other fuses.

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i believe the delayed accessory means it's the stuff that will stay on with the key "OFF" until you open the door - like the radio. are you testing with the doors closed? that seems like a more feasible location to draw from because heaven forbid i short the ignition fuse and can't start the truck