Rear Diff lock won't disengage
- Thread starter DT 714
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
DT 714
Full Access Member
tpe187
Full Access Member
Just had this happen to me. Best way I can describe this is that if you look at the pictures above, the two yellow spots are dielectric grease on the end of the contacts. You can see the corresponding contact points in the housing on the right side of the picture. Under normal circumstances, with the 4wd button pushed in, there is spring pressure maintaining contact. When you pull out on the button to engage the e locker, you remove that pressure and the locker activates. If you pull too hard (not that hard) you can break the plastic tower on either side (internal) and it release the pressure and causes the locker to lock. You can push in and it will disengage, but its a pain in the ass.
You can take it to the dealer, but i find that a pain in the ass as they won't likely have the part and it must be ordered from the national warehouse and takes 4-5 days.
Solutions - Pull the dash cluster gauge trim (remove two 7mm bolt head screws on top and gently pry up. Then pry up on the silver triim piece which holds the 4wd button. You will have to disconnect the wiring harness for the 4wd and depress three fingers around the circumference of the switch to release it from the trim piece. Once out, remove the two phillips screws at the back of the housing and locate which plastic tower is broken. I used Gorillas crazy glue gel and let it sit for about 6 hours (full cure is 24hrs) That seems to have done the trick. I also ordered a replacement switch from my local Ford dealer. They quoted me $50 and 4-5 days to get the part from Ford National warehouse. They used my Vin to make sure it was the right part. Because I'm military they only charged me $30.
I'm sure they would have taken care of it for free if I brought it in, but then I would be without my truck for 4-5 days and be out at least 2 hrs of time at the dealer, etc. To me, my time and patience is worth $30 and the five minutes it takes to replace the switch. For what its worth, if you remove the switch completely, the truck will start but the E locker will be engaged and the check 4wd message will appear and you get the wrench until its replaced. I did not try to drive the truck without the switch installed.
Hope this helps somebody in the future.
You can take it to the dealer, but i find that a pain in the ass as they won't likely have the part and it must be ordered from the national warehouse and takes 4-5 days.
Solutions - Pull the dash cluster gauge trim (remove two 7mm bolt head screws on top and gently pry up. Then pry up on the silver triim piece which holds the 4wd button. You will have to disconnect the wiring harness for the 4wd and depress three fingers around the circumference of the switch to release it from the trim piece. Once out, remove the two phillips screws at the back of the housing and locate which plastic tower is broken. I used Gorillas crazy glue gel and let it sit for about 6 hours (full cure is 24hrs) That seems to have done the trick. I also ordered a replacement switch from my local Ford dealer. They quoted me $50 and 4-5 days to get the part from Ford National warehouse. They used my Vin to make sure it was the right part. Because I'm military they only charged me $30.
I'm sure they would have taken care of it for free if I brought it in, but then I would be without my truck for 4-5 days and be out at least 2 hrs of time at the dealer, etc. To me, my time and patience is worth $30 and the five minutes it takes to replace the switch. For what its worth, if you remove the switch completely, the truck will start but the E locker will be engaged and the check 4wd message will appear and you get the wrench until its replaced. I did not try to drive the truck without the switch installed.
Hope this helps somebody in the future.
Similar threads
