2017 Raptor bump stop kit

Our 2017 Raptor bump stop kit is ready to go! Utilizes FOX 2.5" bump stops with 2.5" stroke.

How are you wrapping that around the frame? Perhaps some pics with it in pieces might show more how it goes together?

Few questions;

1. Have you considered using heims/DOM in-between as crossbrace for adding preload to frame? Is that even needed or helpful?
2. One of the main points on encasing the frame on Gen1s was due to the frame design, correct? So is there a need to do the same on Gen2 bump kits?
3. No adjustability on the placement of those bump cans?

Thanks

RDFTS said:

How are you wrapping that around the frame? Perhaps some pics with it in pieces might show more how it goes together?

Click to expand...

I dont have any pictures of the individual pieces yet, but it bolts completely around the frame.

FordFanStan said:

Few questions;

1. Have you considered using heims/DOM in-between as crossbrace for adding preload to frame? Is that even needed or helpful?
2. One of the main points on encasing the frame on Gen1s was due to the frame design, correct? So is there a need to do the same on Gen2 bump kits?
3. No adjustability on the placement of those bump cans?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Heims have been considered & our engineer & design guys thought this was the best route to go.

Since this new design completely covers the frame, it gives it even more strength, & less room for failure.

There is no adjustment. When you think about it, bump is bump. Full bump is only in 1 location when you cycle suspension. If you adjust a bump stop up or down, you will either bump early or too late. I know some guys like to adjust when towing, but again, bump should be the same no matter what the situation (towing, offroad, etc.)

Addictive Desert Designs said:

I dont have any pictures of the individual pieces yet, but it bolts completely around the frame.

Heims have been considered & our engineer & design guys thought this was the best route to go.



Since this new design completely covers the frame, it gives it even more strength, & less room for failure.



There is no adjustment. When you think about it, bump is bump. Full bump is only in 1 location when you cycle suspension. If you adjust a bump stop up or down, you will either bump early or too late. I know some guys like to adjust when towing, but again, bump should be the same no matter what the situation (towing, offroad, etc.)

Click to expand...

I was wondering how it bolts around it, it just hard to tell in the drawing.

RDFTS said:

I was wondering how it bolts around it, it just hard to tell in the drawing.

Click to expand...

Out of curiosity did you install your own bumpstop kit on your Gen1?

RDFTS said:

I was wondering how it bolts around it, it just hard to tell in the drawing.

Click to expand...

The 2nd picture gives the best view, there are holes on each side of the box, bolts go through the frame. Its basically 2 "C" shaped pieces of steel that clamp around the frame.

Addictive Desert Designs said:

I dont have any pictures of the individual pieces yet, but it bolts completely around the frame.

Heims have been considered & our engineer & design guys thought this was the best route to go.

Since this new design completely covers the frame, it gives it even more strength, & less room for failure.

There is no adjustment. When you think about it, bump is bump. Full bump is only in 1 location when you cycle suspension. If you adjust a bump stop up or down, you will either bump early or too late. I know some guys like to adjust when towing, but again, bump should be the same no matter what the situation (towing, offroad, etc.)

Click to expand...

This one thing I've always not really agreed with on adjustable bump systems. Like you state bump stop position is one place, period, regardless of application or activity (offroad, towing, etc.). By adjusting the bump 2" down to tow you are removing travel from the suspensions design to band-aide a problem. The suspension isn't going to be in the correct progressive spring rate and the valving in your shocks (because we run bypasses) isn't going to be ramped up enough. So basically your suspension is now bottoming out when it's in a softer position than its supposed to be and relying entirely on the bump stop and only 2.5" of travel to control everything which isn't correct and will ride like crap, especially towing heaving and hitting a big bump on the freeway. To correctly adjust the system for towing with air bumps, swapping out the set of 2.5" travel bumps for a set of 4" travel bump stops is the correct way to go about it. That way you are still bottoming out the bumps at the correct full bump position for your springs, shocks, and bumps. You aren't limiting any travel so big hits while towing will still be absorbed instead of just jarring the bump in the wrong spot and you have much more control and adjustability with 4" of bump travel to progress through which will result in the increased towing capacity while maintaining a great ride. Plus, swapping out bumps is probably as fast or faster than changing out a bunch of bolts to move the mounts anyways.