First Detail - Adamized the Raptor

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AdamsPolishes

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@TheWolf, thanks for the wire up on the black matte. Probably warrants its own thread. As you can see, it's not as easy as running a wash pad over it. It takes some care and thought into your cleaning routine. The purpose of the black matte is NOT to be shiny, how ever you want it dark and full of depth. I've used the detail spray on mine and it looks good afterwards. I haven't used the H2O gg yet, sounds like that was a chore.

I suggest that you also add to your write up the importance of choosing products that have a neutral ph balance. Harsh cleaners will damage the wrap. I had a dealer clean mine, and it left the wrap in bad shape. I didn't realize it at the time, and they certainly didn't do it on purpose.

@Yukon Joe :baby: :baby:
www.runraptorrun.com

Good points Joe!

A neutral pH shampoo like Adam's Car Wash Shampoo is very important, since this is the product that will be used often to clean the vinyl.

Some more tips:

Never wash, clean or apply products to vinyl when it is hot to the touch. Allow the vinyl to cool down and work in the shade or a garage.

Do not use abrasive polishes, clay bar, or machine polish vinyl.

When hand polishing with Revive, be careful along the edges to prevent build-up. Apply the product along the edges, not back-and-forth across the edges.

When trying to clean off visible stains or residue that are not removed by washing, start with the least aggressive method first: Waterless Wash wipe-down after a wash, Revive Hand Polish, or Brilliant Glaze. While the most stubborn stains might required diluted All Purpose Cleaner or diluted isopropyl alcohol, these two products should only be used as a last resort, since they can both cause damage if not done properly.

And yes, you are correct, it takes some work and technique to apply the H2O Guard & Gloss. Another easier option for protection is VRT Dressing, but since it is water-based, it will only last a few washes or rains, while the H2O Guard & Gloss will provide about two months of protection.

I will add these tips to the above write-up that I did under my own account.

Thanks
Dan
 
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TheWolf

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About a week ago, I picked up the new Rupes LHR15II, long-throw random orbital polisher that uses a 6" pad, along with the LHR75E Mini that uses a 4" pad.

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Put them to the test on a neglected Porsche Boxster.

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The Rupes polishes have a good deal more correcting power than the Cyclo. However, these single-pad machines take a bit more technique to keep the pad flat on the surface, without adding too much pressure, whereas the Cyclo takes almost no effort to run evenly.

I think the major drawback to the Rupes tools is cost, since you need to have the two machines to get most of the areas. Around the windshield and some tighter curves on the trunk lid could not be done with the 6" pads on the 15mk2. I could have done the entire vehicle with just the Cyclo, even the mirrors with some careful handling, it just would have taken longer to get the correction needed.

With the Rupes polishers listing at $700 for the pair, the Cyclo at $380 is a bit more than half the cost. So for polishing a couple properly maintained vehicles a year, the Cyclo would still be my recommendation. If you regularly work on correcting neglected paint, then the time savings with the Rupes machines would be realized and justify the additional cost.
 
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TheWolf

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The Lowrider Seat

When working on the lower rockers of cars, my detailing seat was too tall, so I would use the creeper to sit on instead of sitting on the floor, but it was a little big and awkward to move around.

So I got another Traxion ProGear Seat and modified it so that the seat is bolted directly to the frame, instead of using the adjustable cylinder post. This makes the seat about 5-1/2 inches lower, and I am still able to move it around with my feet.

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Removed the post plate on the bottom of the seat, then used it to mark the frame, and drilled out the holes. Then got some longer bolts to go through the frame and into the nuts in the seat bottom.

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I also added some bottle holders so I don't have to put them down on the floor, where they get knocked over.

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These Tamrac bottle holders have a flap for attaching to a belt.

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I cut the stitches in the seam on the cover to a width that would allow the flap to slip inside, then added a stitch on each side of the flap to keep the cover from coming apart.

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Loaded up some black Shoe Goo into a small craft syringe.

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Injected some into the cover on both sides of the flap, to make sure it stays in place.

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Added some more to the back of the bottle holder.

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Taped them in place overnight to let the adhesive dry.

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The bottle holders are handy, so I ordered some more to put on the other stool.
 

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I have a friend that has a freshly painted car. the guy that restored it said to not use any wax on it for the first year, he has just let it sit in the garage and the year is about up. so what would you recommend? wash, clay, detail spray, or what would be the order.
 
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TheWolf

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I have a friend that has a freshly painted car. the guy that restored it said to not use any wax on it for the first year, he has just let it sit in the garage and the year is about up. so what would you recommend? wash, clay, detail spray, or what would be the order.

A year to cure? That is crazy. Typically it is 30-90 days.

Since it sounds like a show car, I would wash, Brilliant Glaze, then Americana Wax. If it has been in the garage for a year, there should not be any contamination that would need a clay bar to remove.
 
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