Simplest dual-battery & 2000W inverter setup

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Frank N

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I understand that a 2000w inverter provides much less than 2000w at start (peak) and provides about 1500-1700 continuous. Is that correct? Hence the need for a second battery to get the Keurig started.

My 2k inverter supplies 1k continuous. Ran my house fridge without issue after Sandy.

And that may be enough for a keurig....unless you are overlanding with the deluxe version.. lol

Keurig Desk Pro (makes 8 ounce cups only; draws 700 watts) Keurig Mini Plus K10 (makes 6, 8 or 10 ounce cups; 1425 watts) Brew & Save Refillable K Cup

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:34 AM ----------

A microwave off road? Be honest, your spouse wants a hair dryer.
 
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xxaarraa

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My 2k inverter supplies 1k continuous. Ran my house fridge without issue after Sandy.

OK, if it provides 1k continuous, how much does it provide for starting/initial draw when the appliance first kicks on?

So are you saying that I don't need a second battery at all, and just a 2000W inverter tied to starter battery would be enough?

I was assuming that starting draw from Keurig or Microwave will be too much for a single battery and inverter.

I overland/camp in Northern Maine in the middle of winter. We wake up to negative temps (with wind-chill) quite often. I'd like to avoid standing around a stove boiling water or dealing with heating food outside especially in mornings when there is no camp fire. Hence the Keurig and microwave.

I have a 2000w generator that does everything fine along with powering an electric heater all night, but I want the inverter setup so I don't have to boot up generator while making short stops by side of road for lunch or coffee.

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Frank N

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OK, if it provides 1k continuous, how much does it provide for starting/initial draw when the appliance first kicks on?

So are you saying that I don't need a second battery at all, and just a 2000W inverter tied to starter battery would be enough?

I was assuming that starting draw from Keurig or Microwave will be too much for a single battery and inverter.

2k for initial or a peak draw, 1k cont.

You have to look at the Keurig you own and see what the max watt draw is, you have to do the math of what you want to power before you spend your money.

You could always get a 4k inverter, but I think you would want to run a deep cycle battery like an Optima with 4k inverter.
 

NDO

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OK, if it provides 1k continuous, how much does it provide for starting/initial draw when the appliance first kicks on?

So are you saying that I don't need a second battery at all, and just a 2000W inverter tied to starter battery would be enough?

I was assuming that starting draw from Keurig or Microwave will be too much for a single battery and inverter.

I overland/camp in Northern Maine in the middle of winter. We wake up to negative temps (with wind-chill) quite often. I'd like to avoid standing around a stove boiling water or dealing with heating food outside especially in mornings when there is no camp fire. Hence the Keurig and microwave.

I have a 2000w generator that does everything fine along with powering an electric heater all night, but I want the inverter setup so I don't have to boot up generator while making short stops by side of road for lunch or coffee.

Bear in mind that getting 80-150 amps from a battery or two will be tougher in subzero temps and will be harder on the batteries.

Seems like you could put the house battery (or two) in the truck bed and run a much smaller gauge charging feed from an isolator/ACR back to the house battery.

For coffee my preferred solution is a jet-boil. Just about as fast and a whole lot simpler imho.
 

Loufish

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You got some real holes in your plan...Pulling 80-120 amps for 5 minutes?....that's not going to work...Think you can run down the primary starting battery and just jump it?...Alternators are designed to keep batteries charged, not charge dead ones...AND those batteries are not deep discharge...

Get a 2000 watt Honda/Yamaha genny and run your stuff for long as you like..
I like the Jetboil idea....
 

sobiloff

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I'm in the process of installing a dual battery system in my '17. My goals aren't the same as yours, but with your high current draw I'd look at a lithium iron (LPO, or LiFePO4) battery. They can release their energy faster than a lead acid one, plus they can go to a lower depth of charge (80+%, vs 50%) so you don't need as many Ah, and they're lots lighter and smaller. Look for one that has a built-in charge controller to keep the cells balanced and to allow you to charge from your vehicle's alternator. (Most alternators put out 13.8V, but LPO batteries need 14.2-14.6V to reach full charge, so having a built-in charge controller will boost the voltage when needed to completely top off the battery. Bioenno, among others, have the built-in charge controllers.)
 
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xxaarraa

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You got some real holes in your plan...Pulling 80-120 amps for 5 minutes?....that's not going to work...Think you can run down the primary starting battery and just jump it?...Alternators are designed to keep batteries charged, not charge dead ones...AND those batteries are not deep discharge...

Get a 2000 watt Honda/Yamaha genny and run your stuff for long as you like..
I like the Jetboil idea....

Did you even read any of the posts in this thread before posting?
 
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xxaarraa

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Here's a sitrep.

I ordered an Odyssey PC2150S yesterday. Group 31, 1150 CCA, 100 AH. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002498NR2/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

It will sit on my trailer's tongue all summer and power a fan and lights in my trailer when I don't have access to shore power / generator. In the fall and winter, I will move it to the bed of the truck and along with a 2000W inverter and wired in parallel with the stock battery with quick disconnects, it will help me run a Keurig and Microwave on overlanding trips.

Will post pics and updates once I get it setup in the truck.
 
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