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Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 2]

Add a sub problem


This is a discussion on Add a sub problem within the Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 2] forums, part of the GEN 2 (2017+) Ford F-150 Raptor Forums category!
This is why I was suggesting a multimeter. You need to check if your voltage is dropping or even stable....


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Old 05-13-2018, 09:10 AM   #31 (permalink)
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This is why I was suggesting a multimeter. You need to check if your voltage is dropping or even stable.




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Old 05-13-2018, 09:45 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by smurfslayer View Post
This is why I was suggesting a multimeter. You need to check if your voltage is dropping or even stable.
I checked it but when I checked both positive/negative, it wasn’t under load.
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Old 05-13-2018, 06:20 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I wouldn’t have suspected either power or ground, but when I pulled the ground cable, many of the strands had frayed and broken off. lesson learned.

multi-meter positively id’d the problem as drop in voltage and giving the amp and sub clean power corrected the issue.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:49 AM   #34 (permalink)
 
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what wires are you usng to go to the lc2? also try removing the lc2 from the system


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Old 05-16-2018, 05:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by The Car Stereo Company View Post
what wires are you usng to go to the lc2? also try removing the lc2 from the system
I've tried going from iPhone to 3.5mm to RCA for amp inputs (taking LC2 out of system) and still had the same results.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:28 PM   #36 (permalink)
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we’re several pages in, so let’s level set, shall we?

OP:

the recommended Pioneer 8" sub with Kenwood amp in my 802A B&O system. I used an AudioControl LC2i line converter to get the signal from the existing amp, convert to RCA inputs, then to new amp to power the Pioneer sub. I hooked it all up as other members have and there is lots of distortion and sounds completely terrible. I've rewired the whole system multiple times (changed dual voice coil series/parallel, changed speaker wire inputs, checked positive/negative amp connections, different line converter...) and still coming up empty. While the speaker is out of the enclosure, there is no distortion but as soon as it's in the box, the distortion comes back even at low levels.
So, my question is if people had to modify the existing box (other than moving plastic to fit speaker)? Did other people drill ports? Why is speaker distorting when mounted?
Have you removed the line converter and reverted to simple splicing to RCA inputs? @Toadster’s blog, and the F150 forum post detail this method.

here’s what know: your method didn’t work. Everyone else who’s done the sub mod has worked. what’s different?

also, did you get a mutimeter read out while the sub / amp was under load?

I’m not trying to make this personal here, just illustrate that this is a mod that literally dozens of us have done successfully. I even offered the troubleshooting I did to find the bum ground.

can you get some pics showing your setup? We’re kind of shooting in the dark without a light here.

if pics and the multi-meter and subsequent troubleshooting is going to be too much of an ask, bite the bullet and take it to pros.

Could not cost more than $300 to fix this. If your time is more valuable, it may be best to go this way now, before you fry something.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:40 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by smurfslayer View Post
we’re several pages in, so let’s level set, shall we?

OP:



Have you removed the line converter and reverted to simple splicing to RCA inputs? @Toadster’s blog, and the F150 forum post detail this method.

here’s what know: your method didn’t work. Everyone else who’s done the sub mod has worked. what’s different?

also, did you get a mutimeter read out while the sub / amp was under load?

I’m not trying to make this personal here, just illustrate that this is a mod that literally dozens of us have done successfully. I even offered the troubleshooting I did to find the bum ground.

can you get some pics showing your setup? We’re kind of shooting in the dark without a light here.

if pics and the multi-meter and subsequent troubleshooting is going to be too much of an ask, bite the bullet and take it to pros.

Could not cost more than $300 to fix this. If your time is more valuable, it may be best to go this way now, before you fry something.
I just hooked amp straight to battery positive/negative and used inputs from phone to RCA. Same result. I’m sure I’m screwing up but I've rewired and tried every combination but I'm hours in now without change.

My main question is that so far it seems everyone doing this mod is 2017. Anyone with 2018 B&O do this?

Video is setup as stated (yes I know speaker is not screwed in but previous tests show same “sound” regardless).
https://youtu.be/7Ul0I_jD9fw

Last edited by sherwood; 05-17-2018 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:50 AM   #38 (permalink)
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There’s not much to wiring but here is the pic. Red- battery positive
Black - battery negative
Missing is remote switch but was connected (amp was powered up)
Input is from rca to phone (also missing to take picture)
Speaker hooked up 4 ohm per instructions and confirmed with multimeter.
Attached Thumbnails
61f7024a-2dbb-493b-bb75-a590defe1d70.jpg  
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:43 AM   #39 (permalink)
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what gauge wire are you using to power the amp?

---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:35 AM ----------

hmm... is there a 2018 issue ?
Now there is interface for the B&O system
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Old 05-17-2018, 05:14 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by smurfslayer View Post
what gauge wire are you using to power the amp?

---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:35 AM ----------

hmm... is there a 2018 issue ?
Now there is interface for the B&O system
When hooked straight to battery it was either 12 or 14 gauge but when hooked to inverter power was 0 gauge.

I really think it’s the 2018 enclosure with weird port tube causing the issue.
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