2018 Sound System Upgrade

The Car Stereo Company said:

just be careful with people sitting in the rear seats. the grills will get damaged and possibly cave in which will make the woofers hit it and cause damage to the speakers.

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You are right, the grill on one of the speakers does cave just a bit. I don't know if it is hitting when the woofer is at full excursion, the other speaker is fine with no caving of the grill. I don't mind the two 10s but I have thought about a stealth box or other solution. I mainly went with this due to cost (not too expensive) and ease of installation.

lawdog said:

This link got posted in another thread...may be worth it for you to protect all that/give it some clearance:

LMI Welding Quality Metal Fabrication

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Interesting solution, I think the space back there is plenty for what I have, I could see maybe heat build-up but it seems the amps don't actually hit the back seat, there are some cutout spaces behind the seats and the amps fit nicely back in there. Increasing the seat height a couple inches might be nice, would certainly give more speaker options, I really like the undersea storage which is used up with the two 10s I have. Wouldn't mind a better solution with a smaller footprint.

So with the DM 608 the computer software is suppose to show a graph of the inputs and of summing. Were you able to see the graph to see where the factory crossover points were for sub, rear and fronts? that info would be helpful when building with the facotory amp and picking appropriate components

Mountainkiter said:

So with the DM 608 the computer software is suppose to show a graph of the inputs and of summing. Were you able to see the graph to see where the factory crossover points were for sub, rear and fronts? that info would be helpful when building with the facotory amp and picking appropriate components

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Yes it shows the input frequencies which you can then tweak or sum for the outputs. I am doing a fully active setup (no external crossover) so I sent similar signals to the corresponding amp inputs for tweeters, mids, and subs.


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VegasRaptor18 said:

Yes it shows the input frequencies which you can then tweak or sum for the outputs. I am doing a fully active setup (no external crossover) so I sent similar signals to the corresponding amp inputs for tweeters, mids, and subs.


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Just upgraded from a 2016 F150 to a 2018 with B&O. Had a full system in my 16 utilizing a rockford DSR1 for plug and play factory integration, AudioControl amps, Morel mids and highs, etc. Rockford, Idatalink, and Pac Audio have all confirmed, as of yesterday, that they are currently not working on a factory integration piece for the 18's with B&O. I was already planning on buying a AudioControl DM-810, looks I will just be making that purchase sooner than I planned. One of the great things with the DSR1 is that A. it completely removed and replaced the factory sony amp/dsp B. you could easily adjust chime volume so they weren't overly amplified. Since we now have to take signal after the amp, how are your chimes? Are they overly loud? Bearable? Or did taking the load off the factory amp output cause the truck to play all of its chimes through the internal dash speaker?

I have noticed zero ill effects from going from the factory amp outputs to the DSP. Chimes, voice commands, even the simulated exhaust sound all were no different at least to my ears going to my new setup. I read reports of super loud fake exhaust going through the subs but I noticed none of that. I did try to tune my setup for a flat full response with no heavy boomy bass.


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VegasRaptor18 said:

I have noticed zero ill effects from going from the factory amp outputs to the DSP. Chimes, voice commands, even the simulated exhaust sound all were no different at least to my ears going to my new setup. I read reports of super loud fake exhaust going through the subs but I noticed none of that. I did try to tune my setup for a flat full response with no heavy boomy bass.


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Thanks for the reply. That’s the answer I was hoping for.


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VegasRaptor18 said:

I have noticed zero ill effects from going from the factory amp outputs to the DSP. Chimes, voice commands, even the simulated exhaust sound all were no different at least to my ears going to my new setup. I read reports of super loud fake exhaust going through the subs but I noticed none of that. I did try to tune my setup for a flat full response with no heavy boomy bass.


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And do all of your chimes play through the correct speakers still? Aka, reverse alerts and cross traffic playing through the rear speakers, etc?


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I haven’t noticed any difference. I am not sure how it could be different by just amplifying the signal after the stock amp with different component speakers and a bit of frequency tuning. I am no expert though, these are my observations only.

Also forgot to mention again, the upgraded rear Focals I put in are connected to the stock amp, this may change as I have a small 2ch amp I could connect to the DSP to power them but haven’t gotten around to doing this yet, the rears are a bit more quiet than the fronts FYI.


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VegasRaptor18 said:

I haven’t noticed any difference. I am not sure how it could be different by just amplifying the signal after the stock amp with different component speakers and a bit of frequency tuning. I am no expert though, these are my observations only.

Also forgot to mention again, the upgraded rear Focals I put in are connected to the stock amp, this may change as I have a small 2ch amp I could connect to the DSP to power them but haven’t gotten around to doing this yet, the rears are a bit more quiet than the fronts FYI.


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Ok got it. The whole reason I asked about the chimes is that when you amplify them with an aftermarket amp, they almost always get louder. Depending how powerful your amp is, they can be unbearably loud. Thanks for you help.


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