Roof Rack Install

I'm ordering a roof rack for the cab of my super crew and I'm looking for some advice on installing it.

I've got two choices, pull the headliner and bolt through with washers to spread the loads, or just drill through from the top and use rivnuts.

The rack isn't going to be used for anything heavy. In fact, it will probably be used exclusively for solar panels, and an antenna or two. So I'm thinking rivnuts will be fine unless someone can convince me that pulling the headliner would be no big deal.

So if I do go in from the top, can anyone give me an idea of the safest place to drill through? The best place for the rack would be to mount the rails along the first ridge on the outside (the taller one). Except, are there side curtain airbags or wiring under that rail? If so, then which ridge or valley would be the best bet for avoiding anything underneath?

If I go the rivnut route, I'll use the closed end style and seal around it with 3M 4200 and then maybe cut a small piece of eternabond to go over each rivit. The mounting rail will have a rubber seal on it as well. If I pull the headliner, then I can seal from both sides, but that's a bit overkill.

Thanks!

How about option #3?

If all you're going to put on the roof rack is solar panels and an antenna or two, there has to be another option other than drilling through your roof.

Have you checked the aftermarket roof rack options? Are there any nice looking temporary roof racks with rubber feet or suction cups and tie down straps?

https://www.google.com/search?q=roo...0j69i57j0l4.3356j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Thought about it, but one, I want it to be permanent and, two, I don't want the solar panels to be obvious. The frontrunner style rack has a lip that will hide the panels from view unless you're looking at the truck from above.

Properly sized and installed rivnuts are plenty strong. From the factory that is what Toyota uses on the FJ Cruiser roof racks. Be sure of your nut location as there is no going back that does involve welding. Use a proper installation tool to set the nuts. Use closed end rivnuts and make sure you know accurately the total material thickness you are setting the nut in. Rivnuts are very grip sensitive.

The smittybuilt mount kits use rubber blind nuts they do an ok job of sealing on there own but a little RTV solves that problem.

Thanks.

I'm not too worried about leaks - more about drilling into something I shouldn't.

ovrlnd said:

Thanks.

I'm not too worried about leaks - more about drilling into something I shouldn't.

Click to expand...

If you go close to the seam weld when you drill you'll be drilling into the box section that runs around the door frames, nothing runs inside them.