GEN 2 Not rear diff lock on 2H gen 2 raptor

The Mav said:

It's not because there's too much torque. It's because people are morons and are using it in the wrong situations.

They removed the option so they don't have to pay for the mistakes of morons.

The too much torque is just a line to explain it to those said morons.

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I think you're onto something here... I would think that trying to turn corners in high-traction conditions would be more stressful on the locking diff than the application of copious amounts of torque in a straight line.

Yes. Straight lines or low traction isn't the issue. Its the guys who leave it locked driving on the street. Like the guys who use 4x4 on the street. That's how things break.

Its just simpler and easier for Ford to say it's for reliability reasons. Probably some legal reason in there to not have to warranty them if you bypass it as well.

anyone want to try to lock up in 2wd baja mode? use at your own risk lol.

Has anyone been able to figure it out? Diff lock on H2 is so much fun!

Dan-W said:

Has anyone been able to figure it out? Diff lock on H2 is so much fun!

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there is no "figuring it out"

The carrier on the rear axle isn't the most stout, but that isnt the real reason.

The real reason is that the stability control will initiate braking on individual corners of the truck to keep the truck from tipping or losing control.

If the two rear wheels are locked, this will cause binding in the rear axle and will cause the carrier and spiders to flex, causing quite the kaboom.

How do I know this? From speaking with folks involved in the R&D of the gen2 raptor.

I also know this since I've swapped my rear axle for an F9 with an ARB.

my rear axle is now strong enough to hold up to the braking business, but ALLLLL sorts of errors pop up when I forget to turn off both traction control and stability control.

So, even though you COULD hotwire the engagement to work in 2wH, you shouldn't and therefore no one makes a device to do so. Unless you are skilled enough to do all the wiring, you aint gonna get it.

Or upgrade to an F9 and always remember to disengage traction control and stability control.

But I'd caution you that you better be a pretty good driver because, without stability control, you need to actually know how to drive in the dirt. you can also kiss driving in "D" goodbye if you don't want to spin the truck at every turn when the trans unexpectedly shifts mid-corner. yes, driving with the rear locked in "auto" will have you doing more 360s than tony hawk with no stability or traction control. ask me how I know.

( and yes, the foutz team that fielded the gen2 raptor in the 1000 ran the whole race with it locked. They just happen to have one of the smoothest drivers in the biz, so they did not suffer any rear axle failures.)

Thanks Zombiekiller, great explanation.

I come from the Jeep world, I had to bypass the stability control and the traction control to have the rear diff locked in H2. It was supercharged and was a 2door. So, talking about doing 360s... it was a bit of a challenge at the beginning.

I have a lead foot! Love my Raptor but miss locking the rear.

dlbb said:

have read a few times something about the available torque would destroy the rear end in 2h. or make it fail more.

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this..!!

Dan-W said:

Thanks Zombiekiller, great explanation.

I come from the Jeep world, I had to bypass the stability control and the traction control to have the rear diff locked in H2. It was supercharged and was a 2door. So, talking about doing 360s... it was a bit of a challenge at the beginning.

I have a lead foot! Love my Raptor but miss locking the rear.

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In all honesty, The rear end in my truck held up just fine to beating it mercillessly on 37s. I didn't want to tempt fate with 40s, and when I upgraded, I went heat treated 35 spline axles, ARB and 10.5" ring gear. I also got the truss, skid and all the bells and whistles, knowing that My intention was to mostly run in 2wd with the rear locked.

It might be overbuilt, but I can trust it. If ford put a rear axle in their trucks like I put in mine, The price of a raptor would be 15-20K more than it is.

Truckasaurus said:

I really want to do a 9" with a proper locker but I am holding off until I know for sure what I want to do with the back half situation. Because re-doing things is expensive and sadly this wouldn't even be the first time.

Anyway.Question for future reference. Are you able to just turn off the nannies with the buttons or are you pulling fuses to keep them from interfering entirely?

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If you go with a 9", regardless of where you go with the rear suspension, It can be reused. Just have to change a few brackets.

You can disable everything except the "roll control", but I don't find it to be a problem as I generally don't get "tippy" with my driving style.

I've been waiting to see what the next generation of rear suspension kits evolves into. Signs say that short-course 3 link suspensions are going to be the new "standard". there are a few companies out there that have either released theirs, teased at it, or are working on one.

I had mine built to support 3x the horsepower that I'm currently running. It is probably the strongest part on my truck at this point and I plan to continue to use it throughout the life of my rig.

Truckasaurus said:

Good info and good point on the rear end being able to be reused.

I agree on current state of the market. I have been eyeing the Kibbetech short course rear matched to an H&M front. Just not sure I want track width that wide in the front.

Thanks for the insight.

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Kevin's (HMRacing) kit works REALLY well. ( I've seen it plenty and have driven it in multiple trucks.) His kit is actually quite a bit slimmer than others (including mine). It is also engineered to be durable and predictable. His design has lots of tough baja miles on it. ( as do SVC with their mid-travel and Icon with their stage 4 kit).

One of these days I'm going to have Kevin build me something really rad, until then I'll have to settle for when I get my truck to him for the cage.