Overheating with Full Race Intercooler

Yup lights .... if you want to sell em
Let me know

I took the light bars out last night. With the brackets it does look like it could be part of the problem for sure. I left my lower vision x light bar on. If that doesn’t work I’m going bigger radiator and oil cooler and opening up the skid plate for more air flow. I might just take the skid plate off next time to see how she does. I think with the light bars, ic and bumper it just isn’t getting air.

roostinyfz said:

I took the light bars out last night. With the brackets it does look like it could be part of the problem for sure. I left my lower vision x light bar on. If that doesn’t work I’m going bigger radiator and oil cooler and opening up the skid plate for more air flow. I might just take the skid plate off next time to see how she does. I think with the light bars, ic and bumper it just isn’t getting air.

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I think you should be fine with the vision x in there. Keep us informed as I'm sure this could help others down the road.

Yes please keep us informed, there are hundreds of customer with the IC upgrade out there that aren't having overheating issues so we would be curious to see if this improves. Picture of @roostinyfz's truck for reference:

question: How tall are the M&R bars that you removed?

The reason that I ask is that I just measure a raptor FR v1 IC.

It is a little over 12" tall.

If those M&R bars are 1" tall, the bars would block about 17% of the airflow to the IC.

I'm not sure how much excess cooling capacity that FR built into the calculations for required IC surface area, but I'd doubt that it was 20%.

This would leave be to belive that the bar removal should fix your issues.

I know the radiator is much larger than the IC, but the same logic would hold. If we say that the radiator is twice the surface area ( which I dont think it is .) Then the bars lowered the working surface area by 10%.

With heat the drop off would compound as you reached the failure point ( i.e. overheating condition.)

If the bar removal doesnt quite get you there, I'd try the TSTAT next. Between the two, I think you'll be gravy.

I dont think that the removal of the skid will help with water temp, but It would most likely have a tangible oil temp impact.

Agreed ^^^

A new Tstat is cheap and easy to install. Maybe $60 at SPD Performance. Cheaper than buying a new radiator.

A thermostat isn't going to do shit, guys. Why do you think it will? His fluid temp was 258. Do you really think the OEM thermostat was closed???

I run an upgraded CBR radiator (and oil cooler) in my truck. Very happy with it. I'd put your lights back on and get the bigger radiator. It's only a grand or so and given everything you have put into the truck already, that doesn't amount to much.

https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/cbr-oem-ford-raptor-replacement-radiator/

I would give CBR a call and find out if they have one for your truck. Heat is an engine/trans killer.

Btw, I also run the upgraded OEM trans cooler.

Truckzor said:

A thermostat isn't going to do shit, guys. Why do you think it will? His fluid temp was 258. Do you really think the OEM thermostat was closed???

I run an upgraded CBR radiator (and oil cooler) in my truck. Very happy with it. I'd put your lights back on and get the bigger radiator. It's only a grand or so and given everything you have put into the truck already, that doesn't amount to much.

https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/cbr-oem-ford-raptor-replacement-radiator/

I would give CBR a call and find out if they have one for your truck. Heat is an engine/trans killer.

Btw, I also run the upgraded OEM trans cooler.

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Thermostat probably won't help much, but it's pretty cheap to swap all things considered... A bigger radiator won't do shit if it isn't getting enough air... As mentioned, those square lights could be diverting most air from entering the areas above and below the intercooler which is why he is having a problem. He is literally the only person I've seen/heard of that is having cooling issue with the IC there - and really the only one I've seen with lights behind the grill with that IC as well.

I'm just saying it's the cheapest first place to start imo. If it doesn't work it's only a few bucks and an hour of work.

I was hitting 225-230 on the norm in AZ. I threw in the 170 tstat. Just did the ROC Prescott to Vegas run. 500 seriously rough offroad miles. Never saw above 215 and I didn't even get the fans tuned to turn on sooner.

No argument the radiator would be the best bet. Just saying I'd start with the tstat first due to cost.

Truckzor said:

A thermostat isn't going to do shit, guys. Why do you think it will? His fluid temp was 258. Do you really think the OEM thermostat was closed???

I run an upgraded CBR radiator (and oil cooler) in my truck. Very happy with it. I'd put your lights back on and get the bigger radiator. It's only a grand or so and given everything you have put into the truck already, that doesn't amount to much.

https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/cbr-oem-ford-raptor-replacement-radiator/

I would give CBR a call and find out if they have one for your truck. Heat is an engine/trans killer.

Btw, I also run the upgraded OEM trans cooler.

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With the removed lights, I'd wager his issue will be solved. If for whatever reason, the cooling system still needs a little help, having the Tstat open sooner may give him the needed head start on waterflow to postpone the heatsoak point enough that he'd make it up the hills without overheating. The downhill or flat sections coupled with the tstat continuing to be open longer would give him quicker recovery ( cooling wise) .

Does it totally fix the "problem?" NO. Will it potentially treat the symptoms enough to stave off the "disease" , you betcha.

nikhsub1 said:

Thermostat probably won't help much, but it's pretty cheap to swap all things considered... A bigger radiator won't do shit if it isn't getting enough air... As mentioned, those square lights could be diverting most air from entering the areas above and below the intercooler which is why he is having a problem. He is literally the only person I've seen/heard of that is having cooling issue with the IC there - and really the only one I've seen with lights behind the grill with that IC as well.

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Exactly. If airflow is impeded, a bigger surface area radiator won't really do shit. The CBR variant would have to have enough thickness and fin surface area where air IS flowing, to make up for a 15% loss in height x width surface area due to the lights blocking airflow.