Kooks DP, AFE intake, tubo adapters, SP 542 plugs and coolant temp question

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ATRaptor

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Not tuned. No extra boost. Just the intake, DP, adapters and 542’s gapped at .028. I swapped out the original plugs last night and drove around to see if that affected the coolant temp. It did not. So I put the 542’s back in. This morning I threw the misfire warning. Have not had a chance to get the code read yet. Maybe I’ll close them to .025 to see if it stops the misfire. I’m getting the code read after work.

71 degrees this morning and the truck still ran warmer. Hit 221 at one time. But it quickly drops back to 202-205 off the boost. Hell even under 200 downhill. Averaged 210-212 degrees.


Roger that, another dumb question so I apologize- but you're sure it was a misfire code I.E. the check engine light was flashing? Usually if its JUST a misfire the light will flash and then turn off, but you're saying you still have a light on?

I've got nothing on the truck running hot but I will say a lean condition can cause a car/truck to run a little hotter than usual, for what its worth.
 
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Onemoosehorn

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Roger that, another dumb question so I apologize- but you're sure it was a misfire code I.E. the check engine light was flashing? Usually if its JUST a misfire the light will flash and then turn off, but you're saying you still have a light on?

I've got nothing on the truck running hot but I will say a lean condition can cause a car/truck to run a little hotter than usual, for what its worth.

Light stayed on yes. This is what ford pass app showed me: so I’m assuming engine misfire. And what would cause me to be running so lean? Combo of everything then? New plugs? DP’s? New intake?
 

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Onemoosehorn

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Ok so the check engine light is from the p0420 and p0430 codes. So it looks like the green catted downpipes from Kooks do throw a code with the turbo adapters.
 

TXRaptor

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No. If anything the truck should run a bit cooler due to less restriction on the DPs... I put a 170 thermostat in for fun - truck stays in the 170's now for the most part.

I did 170 t-stat on mine when I did the MPT, FR IC, SPD TAs and the SP 542s. The stock truck used to run north of 200-205 all of the time, now with all the mods, it barely gets above 170. (So the t-stat is working as designed...) :biggrin:
 
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Onemoosehorn

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I did 170 t-stat on mine when I did the MPT, FR IC, SPD TAs and the SP 542s. The stock truck used to run north of 200-205 all of the time, now with all the mods, it barely gets above 170. (So the t-stat is working as designed...) :biggrin:

I would love to throw in a new t-stat. But I’m worried about winter time in NEPA and the truck getting warm for heat.
 

TXRaptor

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I would love to throw in a new t-stat. But I’m worried about winter time in NEPA and the truck getting warm for heat.

170 degrees in the winter should be warm enough to heat up the inside of the truck! :smile:

Mine gets to 170 just as fast as before, but then it stays there instead of shooting up another 40+ degrees... I went with the much larger FR IC, colder plugs and the t-stat to keep the truck running as cool as possible with the extra 100 HP. I have only had it about a week since the mods, but it has already been over 100 degrees in Texas, so I am real happy about the engine operating temps!
 
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Onemoosehorn

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170 degrees in the winter should be warm enough to heat up the inside of the truck! :smile:

Mine gets to 170 just as fast as before, but then it stays there instead of shooting up another 40+ degrees... I went with the much larger FR IC, colder plugs and the t-stat to keep the truck running as cool as possible with the extra 100 HP. I have only had it about a week since the mods, but it has already been over 100 degrees in Texas, so I am real happy about the engine operating temps!

Guess I’ll look into a new t-stat and IC.

I bet your truck has to run like hell now. I’m not tuned yet and mine runs damn good. Lol. Can’t wait for a tune.
 

TXRaptor

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Guess I’ll look into a new t-stat and IC.

I bet your truck has to run like hell now. I’m not tuned yet and mine runs damn good. Lol. Can’t wait for a tune.

If "run like hell now" means "runs like a bat out of hell", than I will say Hell Yeah!! :ROFLJest:

With the 37s, it looks and runs like a BEAST! It is a much bigger than a stock Raptor and has the HP/TQ to match the new size. :biggrin:

SPD TAs and Flowmaster Flow FX gives it a nice growl when I open it up, but it still passes the wife test for normal everyday driving. (with zero drone)
 
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Onemoosehorn

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If "run like hell now" means "runs like a bat out of hell", than I will say Hell Yeah!! :ROFLJest:

With the 37s, it looks and runs like a BEAST! It is a much bigger than a stock Raptor and has the HP/TQ to match the new size. :biggrin:

SPD TAs and Flowmaster Flow FX gives it a nice growl when I open it up, but it still passes the wife test for normal everyday driving. (with zero drone)

Bat out of hell is exactly what I meant. Lol. I had a supercharged Tundra on 37’s as my last truck. It ran like hell!! Lol But the tech with Toyota is so far behind. That’s why I switched to the Raptor. I’ll tell you that the Ford runs just as damn good as the Toyota did. Feels lighter too. The only thing I’m getting used to is the V6 sound so far. That’s why I’m not changing anything else besides the downpipes for now. Sounds like you have an awesome build going. Enjoy it!! I’m slowly getting there. Lol
 

Sledgehammer

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Its hard to tell from the pics but is that afe intake open to the engine bay or does it only draw air from the top like the stock airbox? If nothing else i would swap the stock box back on and drive it before running out and buying more parts to possibly compound the issue.
 
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