GEN 2 Install of AFE Scorcher

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kdub405

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Received the AFE Scorcher yesterday and got it installed. Packing looks like this

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Inside the box
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Plus install instructions, 5 zip ties and two double sided Velcro squares. One used to secure the main box to your desired location and an extra.

Instal was pretty straight forward and took about 30 min. Side note, I have installed two JMS boostmax's so it went smother this go round. I chose to start in the cab by locating a home for the control switch to the left of the wheel, as I have an 802A so push button is in the way in the other side. b233e6bf1cedb67457f14f43bc81e4a5.jpg

I had already cut a small slice in the rubber grommet located on firewall driver side and just under the break booster for the boostmax so I used the same spot for this install.

Picture of engine grommet
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I chose to not cut the inside grommet located under the driver side dash but rather use the same path the harness runs.

Picture of insidee97bd751a9cbe8a6535e5c6ce91d929b.jpg

I would note that you need to pay special attention to not cut or puncture the trucks wire harness. I went to the left side of it in the engine bay and used a hanger with a hook and tape to fish it through....by far the hardest part!!

Once that's done, you need to choose a location to mount the main box in the engine bay. There is plenty of cable for the tmap and map sensors but not much to reach back to the control switch located in the cab so I chose the driver side. See pic
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Next, you simply run the main harness along the firewall to the map switch located on the back of the engine
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The Scorcher has two connections, one that you plug into the sensor and one that you plug into the trucks harness. So in short, you are putting the Scorcher inline with the sensor and the trucks harness.

You then run the harness along the top of the engine up to the front, I did not get a picture with the engine cover off but I chose the route along the left side as there are other wires routed that way and it's an easy place to zip tie to. Once up front you then unplug the tmap sensors and insert the Scorcher inline with it, unplug sensors, plug in Scorcher connection and the plug the truck harness into the other Scorcher conection.
See picee79b708df3c0423e9dda907117a2780.jpg

Pretty straightforward and that it. I did disconnect the battery for a a few and hooked it back up. Cleaned up the work space and shut hood.

I have had the boostmax and was running it on the 93 octane setting, full blast, and was used to the increase in performance. That said, I truly feel that the AFE Scorcher feels a bit more aggressive..It feels as if it gets going quicker in both normal and sport.

Anyway, hope all this helps. Anyone need more info or pics let me know!



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Bullishone

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Great write up. I agree, it does feel more aggressive.

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kdub405

kdub405

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Any dyno sheets from anyone yet?



None yet but when it hits the rollers switching back to stock setup is a two minute process. Don't have any dyno time setup but will at some point.


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Ruger

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aFe doesn't provide dyno sheets from an independently conducted dyno run?
Absent that, it's all just marketing hype.
How much are you guys spending on this little black box???
 
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kdub405

kdub405

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aFe doesn't provide dyno sheets from an independently conducted dyno run?
Absent that, it's all just marketing hype.
How much are you guys spending on this little black box???



$400


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Bullishone

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aFe doesn't provide dyno sheets from an independently conducted dyno run?
Absent that, it's all just marketing hype.
How much are you guys spending on this little black box???
Marketing hype that actually makes a massive difference. Yes.



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Ruger

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Marketing hype that actually makes a massive difference. Yes.

I presume that you meant that the little black box makes a massive difference rather than the marketing hype.

Look, I'm not tryin to bust anybody's chops here, but I've run into this before with Hennessey. They made more modest claims than these about their CAI and when asked to provide dyno proof, they offered only excuses about their dyno needing service, dyno scheduling, etc. Eventually the demand for proof became the problem rather than the absence of proof.

You get the picture. They didn't have proof, and they weren't about to provide proof because their claims were false. There's an old saying: "Caveat emptor" - "Let the buyer beware." I would be leery of blowing $400 on a device when the only thing you know about it is what the manufacturer tells you.
 
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