Blown radiator hose (or something)! Potentail engine damage?!

I’m writing this while waiting for a tow truck to take my 2018 with 1400 miles to the nearest dealership.

After sitting in stop and go traffic for an hour, moving maybe a mile, we took off and after about 3-5 minutes of driving, the engine high temp alert came on and the needle was past red on the engine temp gauge.

I had to move because I was in a unsafe place on the road so I killed the engine and let it cool for a couple minutes until the temp went down to 1/2 way between the marks, turned it on, and then went about 1/2 a mile to a place I️ could safely park and check out the problem. By the time I️ parked, the temp went back up past the red needle and the alert came on again.

I️ popped the hood and looked under the truck. The radiator fluid reservoir was empty and the last bit of fluid leaked out of somewhere on the radiator about 1/2 way up the engine bay.

Has anything like this happened to anyone? I’m guessing the engine was sucking down the fluid from sitting in stop and go traffic (with start-stop on) and once I️ started moving a loose hose clip cause a hose to pop off and empty the radiator.

Thoughts on potential damage? These are aluminum blocks, right? I’m thinking best case scenario is they reconnect the hose, fill her up with fluid, then all is good. Worst case is the block is cracked. I️ know aluminum blocks are more susceptible to cracking because of over heating and it’s boosted, so that probably doesn’t help.

It’s at the dealer now. They said they’ll take a look Monday or Tuesday. Not even 3 weeks off the lot and she’s in the shop. I’m pretty bummed out - was really excited to pick up the truck of my dreams and this is kind of a punch in the n*ts. It would’ve been nice if the service manager acted like they gave a crap. No urgency and no sense of give a f**k that I’m towing in a truck that still is paper plates on it.

Any helpful suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks y’all.

While I'd definitely be concerned if I were in your shoes, one thing worth noting is that a lot of modern vehicles have a limp/reduced power mode that will intermittently shut off 1-2 cylinders at a time (by cutting fuel/spark) in order to move air through the engine to cool it down.

The good news is that it hasn't seized up, and I assume that it wasn't knocking or anything when you killed it. If it was me, I'd ask the stealership to find/stop the coolant leak, refill the coolant, change the oil, and run a compression check. If the compression check comes out okay, I'd be pretty comfortable with the overall situation...

Talbor said:

I’m writing this while waiting for a tow truck to take my 2018 with 1400 miles to the nearest dealership.

After sitting in stop and go traffic for an hour, moving maybe a mile, we took off and after about 3-5 minutes of driving, the engine high temp alert came on and the needle was past red on the engine temp gauge.

I had to move because I was in a unsafe place on the road so I killed the engine and let it cool for a couple minutes until the temp went down to 1/2 way between the marks, turned it on, and then went about 1/2 a mile to a place I️ could safely park and check out the problem. By the time I️ parked, the temp went back up past the red needle and the alert came on again.

I️ popped the hood and looked under the truck. The radiator fluid reservoir was empty and the last bit of fluid leaked out of somewhere on the radiator about 1/2 way up the engine bay.

Has anything like this happened to anyone? I’m guessing the engine was sucking down the fluid from sitting in stop and go traffic (with start-stop on) and once I️ started moving a loose hose clip cause a hose to pop off and empty the radiator.

Thoughts on potential damage? These are aluminum blocks, right? I’m thinking best case scenario is they reconnect the hose, fill her up with fluid, then all is good. Worst case is the block is cracked. I️ know aluminum blocks are more susceptible to cracking because of over heating and it’s boosted, so that probably doesn’t help.

It’s at the dealer now. They said they’ll take a look Monday or Tuesday. Not even 3 weeks off the lot and she’s in the shop. I’m pretty bummed out - was really excited to pick up the truck of my dreams and this is kind of a punch in the n*ts. It would’ve been nice if the service manager acted like they gave a crap. No urgency and no sense of give a f**k that I’m towing in a truck that still is paper plates on it.

Any helpful suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks y’all.

Click to expand...

I hope you’re back on the road soon. We had a forum member have a hose clamp pop off on the drive home earlier in the year. More than likely you’re fine once they fix the leak.

fingers x’d

Agree - have seen a couple 17s with leaking coolant. It is typically the connection under the reservoir tank that leaks.

Sorry for your issues but should be an easy fix and no lasting damage.

If you knew how Ford union rules work, you would not be surprised at the lack of quality control and problems like you had.

I have seen a couple of 2017's have the same/similar issue but you are the first 2018. Planning to check all my clamps this weekend. You are likely ok on your engine. As others stated they have failsafes built in just for your exact situation. Limp mode is intended to get you out of danger where you can safely stop the vehicle. Check your oil. If it is clear and looks good you are likely fine. If it looks like a mocha frappa fu-fu coffee drink you are not so good.

That really blows man, sorry to hear. Since you let it cool before you moved it again I doubt there's engine damage.

Mine did the same thing, it’s a hose on the transmission fluid warmer. I’ll put money on it. Should be fine and back up and running quick!

Talbor said:

I’m writing this while waiting for a tow truck to take my 2018 with 1400 miles to the nearest dealership.

After sitting in stop and go traffic for an hour, moving maybe a mile, we took off and after about 3-5 minutes of driving, the engine high temp alert came on and the needle was past red on the engine temp gauge.

I had to move because I was in a unsafe place on the road so I killed the engine and let it cool for a couple minutes until the temp went down to 1/2 way between the marks, turned it on, and then went about 1/2 a mile to a place I️ could safely park and check out the problem. By the time I️ parked, the temp went back up past the red needle and the alert came on again.

I️ popped the hood and looked under the truck. The radiator fluid reservoir was empty and the last bit of fluid leaked out of somewhere on the radiator about 1/2 way up the engine bay.

Has anything like this happened to anyone? I’m guessing the engine was sucking down the fluid from sitting in stop and go traffic (with start-stop on) and once I️ started moving a loose hose clip cause a hose to pop off and empty the radiator.

Thoughts on potential damage? These are aluminum blocks, right? I’m thinking best case scenario is they reconnect the hose, fill her up with fluid, then all is good. Worst case is the block is cracked. I️ know aluminum blocks are more susceptible to cracking because of over heating and it’s boosted, so that probably doesn’t help.

It’s at the dealer now. They said they’ll take a look Monday or Tuesday. Not even 3 weeks off the lot and she’s in the shop. I’m pretty bummed out - was really excited to pick up the truck of my dreams and this is kind of a punch in the n*ts. It would’ve been nice if the service manager acted like they gave a crap. No urgency and no sense of give a f**k that I’m towing in a truck that still is paper plates on it.

Any helpful suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks y’all.

Click to expand...

What dealership in Houston is this?

BurnOut said:

While I'd definitely be concerned if I were in your shoes, one thing worth noting is that a lot of modern vehicles have a limp/reduced power mode that will intermittently shut off 1-2 cylinders at a time (by cutting fuel/spark) in order to move air through the engine to cool it down.

The good news is that it hasn't seized up, and I assume that it wasn't knocking or anything when you killed it. If it was me, I'd ask the stealership to find/stop the coolant leak, refill the coolant, change the oil, and run a compression check. If the compression check comes out okay, I'd be pretty comfortable with the overall situation...

Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. I didn’t know about the limp mode. My brother in law’s dodge just had the same thing happen to it and it cracked the block, so I’m guessing his doesn’t have the same limp mode (mid-00s) and it has a problematic Mercedes engine.

Good suggestions on how the dealer should address the problem. I’m thinking they’ll probably try to charge me for the new oil and compression check. Might have to start looking into area service managers to contact if I get pushback.

---------- Post added at 11:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 AM ----------

df4801 said:

Sorry for your issues but should be an easy fix and no lasting damage.

If you knew how Ford union rules work, you would not be surprised at the lack of quality control and problems like you had.

Click to expand...

When we bought my wife’s 2016 Explorer sport, within 50 miles the Park Aid System kept faulting. They had to take off the rear bumper to get to a sensor connector that was not pushed in all the way till it clicked. I’m sure this is a clamp that was not properly put on. Shame for such simple assembly issues to taint such a well engineered machine.

---------- Post added at 11:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 AM ----------

SilverBolt said:

I have seen a couple of 2017's have the same/similar issue but you are the first 2018. Planning to check all my clamps this weekend. You are likely ok on your engine. As others stated they have failsafes built in just for your exact situation. Limp mode is intended to get you out of danger where you can safely stop the vehicle. Check your oil. If it is clear and looks good you are likely fine. If it looks like a mocha frappa fu-fu coffee drink you are not so good.

Click to expand...

Good recommendation. I think if I was a little more calm, I would have thought about that. Just a bit frustrated with a truck that still has paper plates.

I went to the dealer today but service was closed. I asked to get in the truck to get something out, so they found someone to let me back. I checked the oil and it’s oil - no milky appearance. So I should be just fine. Being full synthetic and only having 1400 miles on it, it was a lot darker than I expected. Wonder if that’s because of the overheating.

---------- Post added at 12:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:57 AM ----------

Matt6951 said:

Mine did the same thing, it’s a hose on the transmission fluid warmer. I’ll put money on it. Should be fine and back up and running quick!

Click to expand...

I was planning on doing a road trip with a buddy out to New Mexico to be a chase vehicle for hot air balloons. This failure makes me pretty nervous. I’m thinking I’ll pull off the plate and replace any cheesy looking clamps with the old metal screw style.

---------- Post added at 12:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 PM ----------

RaptorEnthusiast said:

What dealership in Houston is this?

Click to expand...

Tommie Vaugh Ford in the Heights. I dropped it off 2pm on Friday and was told maybe Monday but def Tuesday it’ll get looked at. Nobody even looked at the truck, just told me and the tow truck driver to find a spot to drop it in. With it being a potential <1hour job, sucks that it’ll be 4 days before someone even pops the hood.

I’m not saying I should get special treatment because it’s a Raptor. But when you drop some serious cash on a vehicle and it’s out of service days after you bought it, I would think they would make it a priority to get you back in it ASAP.

—

Thanks all to your help. This def makes me feel better about the whole issue. Should be a simple fix and the truck should be good as new.