12V cig lighter socket in bed. Use trailer connector?

Hey guys,

I am prepping for an overlanding trip and want to hook up my 12v cooler in the bed. I always assumed I had a 12V cig lighter socket in the bed (802a with LED lighting and remote tailgate release etc. so I thought power in bed was sorted), but to my surprise, I don't see one.

What's the best source for a 12V cig lighter socket in the bed? Can I just use one of the trailer sockets since we have both 7 pin and 4 pin? I realize that will probably make the car think there is always a trailer attached which would be annoying, but I can live with that if that's a plug and play option.

Any other option that folks have used?

Check the amperage requirement of the fridge before you start looking for wires to tap. I am guessing that it will require a 20-30amp circuit.

SilverBolt said:

Check the amperage requirement of the fridge before you start looking for wires to tap. I am guessing that it will require a 20-30amp circuit.

Click to expand...

I am interested in running a 'cooler' not a compressor-based fridge. Coolers are meant to run off internal cig lighter outlets that are lighter weight anyway.

But great point. I will be sure to test the draw of the cooler thanks.

I'd run my own power wire in wire loom, and just parallel the stock harness to get to the bed.

I need to do the same for our fridge. Still cant believe Ford does not put one back there........

Adding a couple of 12v outlets plus USB outlets in the bed is on my short list of mods to do. I'll run power from under the hood into the bed likely using one of the 2 plastic oval plugs in the lower front corners of the bed (just drill a hole through it being careful not to let the drill bit go too far).

SilverBolt said:

Check the amperage requirement of the fridge before you start looking for wires to tap. I am guessing that it will require a 20-30amp circuit.

Click to expand...

My dometic DC fridge draws ~50-55 watts running 1 compartment as a fridge (at 34F) and the other as a freezer (at 0F). That's when the compressor is running (so about 4.5 amps). I don't think that there is a DC fridge made that will pull more than 7-8 amps when the compressor is running. They draw almost nothing when the compressor isn't running.

For what it's worth, if I wanted some additional power in the bed and wasn't going to go with a dual battery setup, I'd run some decent gauge wire from the battery back into the bed and into a bluesea 12v fuse box. That way anytime you want to expand or add something that uses power, you can just run it off of that fuse box and be done with it. Costs a bit more up front (they aren't super expensive... maybe $30-50 bucks... but then you have an easy to use solution for adding whatever you want (within reason). The 12 fuse blocks will do 100amps per box / 30amps per circuit.

psufan said:

For what it's worth, if I wanted some additional power in the bed and wasn't going to go with a dual battery setup, I'd run some decent gauge wire from the battery back into the bed and into a bluesea 12v fuse box. That way anytime you want to expand or add something that uses power, you can just run it off of that fuse box and be done with it. Costs a bit more up front (they aren't super expensive... maybe $30-50 bucks... but then you have an easy to use solution for adding whatever you want (within reason). The 12 fuse blocks will do 100amps per box / 30amps per circuit.

Click to expand...

^^^What he said.