Whipple issues?

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So I had my Whipple installed and as soon as I picked it up it didnt feel right. The truck is a 2012 and stock except for a cutout installed where the resonator was and a flowmaster put in place of the stock muffler. So first thing I notice on my way home was when I would let off the throttle the rpm jumped up about 100 rpm for a split second. When I got home I let it idle for a minute and the idle was a little erratic so I tapped the gas and it jumped quick to 2500 rpm then down to 400-500 (damn near dies) up to 1500 down to 500...etc...after 6-7 seconds it would finally settle down and idle. Now this occurs at ANY tap of the throttle no matter how light I hit it. So being the obsessive person I am I go into full wtf mode and start checking things out. Tightened the belt down as tight as it will go to eliminate belt slip and installed a boost gauge. Boost gauge is showing just under 6 psi at wot and my obd scanner is showing 5.2 psi. The truck feels strong but im not at all impressed with the power...it seems lacking. I took my brother for a ride and he laughed and said it feels as strong as it did last time he was in it. Wtf! It is quicker but not at all how it is described by some of the posts on here. The first time I was able to nail it from a stop I felt my procharged 5.4 f150 on 37" tires would walk it. Even the installer said it was fast to 40 but then his diesel would run by it....it was already fast to 40.....

Anyways, was I expecting too much out of this tank or do I have an issue? My girls Titanium Flex with the Ecoboost still feels faster =(.

It is the stock Whipple tune btw.

Oh and hello all! Forgive my runons and lack of punctuation..typing from my phone.
 
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Blowers don't like extremely hot air. Take it out on a cooler night also try to log your IAT 1 and IAT 2. Also get a new tune.

Man if 85 is too hot this thing is gonna be bad when its 115 out lol.

I seen a dyno chart with whipples tune and it was 78 out irc. Showed 8.8 psi. I considered a lethal tune when I ordered the kit but I am more interested in the warranty.

Earlier today it was 102 out and I still got around 5 psi strange...

I will log those iat's in a few minutes its about 80 out where im at

---------- Post added at 12:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 AM ----------

Cant get iat 2 on this thing but iat held at 78. I have a snapon scanner at the shop that will do it though. Boost was just over 5psi on the gauge and 4.1 on the manifold according to obd. Is there a solid spot to tap the boost gauge in other than off of the bypass actuator?

---------- Post added at 01:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:44 AM ----------

Noticed my outside temperature is stuck at 60....awesome.
 

PropDr

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Make sure there is no air in the intercooler system and the water circulation system is working
 
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CineSLR

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Have you emailed whipple? Thats where I would start. Temperature won't effect the PSI, just HP. Another word for it is heat soak. This doesn't seem to be your issue. It sounds like something is not right with the tune. If you want to keep it "stock" tune your only option is to work with whipple.
 

Rusty

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Whipple issues.

A couples of the guys here have suggested you get a good tune.

I think you will need to go to a dyno and get a tune there. It also depends on
the tuner. Some talk a good game, but in the end they are full of shit.

The gentleman that suggested you contact Whipple is a good start.
I would also consider Lethal performance. They may be able to suggest a
good tuner in Phoenix. or the surrounding area.

You do need some sort of heat exchanger that lowers the temp by at least
10 to 15 degrees intake.

The system I was using on my 03 Marauder (5.4 Termanator DOHC)
2.9 Whipple, I tried quite a few different heat exchangers and none really worked to products the sort of power I was looking for. I was looking for
550 to 600 RWHP. The Culprit was IAT. The air box that 5 star is offering
will help just a little, but if you want power then..... Here is what I did.....
What I wound up doing was a Chiller Killer system (Not cheap) but works.

You know what really puzzles me is how a blower like this Whipple can
really be effective without installing forged internals. This is what I think
is the root of the problem. You are trying to use forced induction on an
engine that is not designed for this sort of power adder.

If you are trying to keep the engine stock so you can keep your warranty,
I would think you pasted that when you added the Whipple!

The real question here is do you really want to make power or do you want
try and do it without putting in the necessary upgrades to the engine that
will make lots of power.

Once you deside this, than you can move forward. I don't think there is any
way around this. Whipple is not a Triolgy.

Any time you go with Whipple, Eaton, or Kenny Bell, You need to do the whole
job, or you will be in the same boat. You may even hurt the engine.

JMHO, I could be wrong, I don;t think so. but you have to decide for yourself
what you want from this upgrade.

Good Luck with your projects. I hope in the end you get what you want.
I look forward to seeing your results and what you had to do to get there.

Rusty
 

MTF

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beerhasvitamins,

You said Stock Whipple Tune,
There is only one Ceritified Tune and it's from Ford Racing, is this what you mean?

If you do then it should run like mine unless something is not installed right.

I have a video here in this forum at: http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f24/whipples-6-2l-650hp-raptor-system-10885/index6.html#post209817

Also you should not be using the cutout for at least 300 miles or more you are gonna mess with learning cycle.

Actually you can not use the cutout, the Tune is not designed for it. If it's the Ford Racing Tune.
 
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