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Wire Raptor AUX upfitter switches


This is a discussion on Wire Raptor AUX upfitter switches within the Ford Raptor How-To's and FAQs forums, part of the Ford Raptor Forums - General Information category!
Originally Posted by RDFTS Using a higher load on #3 and #4 will melt the wires and cause a fire ...


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Old 10-12-2016, 03:52 PM   #261 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by RDFTS View Post
Using a higher load on #3 and #4 will melt the wires and cause a fire if you put a higher fuse in it. Just use the lower switches to a larger relay then to better grade wire to handle the load. I have a 40" Baja Designs pulling over 21amps at start up connected to aux 3. Have 10 gauge for the light though
So, you have a relay switch between the wire which comes through the firewall into the engine compartment, and a heavier gauge from the light?

What kind of relay are you using?

And how does the relay prevent the wires from melting/burning?






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Old 10-12-2016, 07:26 PM   #262 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by carlschmarl2 View Post
So, you have a relay switch between the wire which comes through the firewall into the engine compartment, and a heavier gauge from the light?

What kind of relay are you using?

And how does the relay prevent the wires from melting/burning?
AUX 3 is like 16-18 gauge wire I think. All it is doing is powering the relay that I installed. It doesn't need much to do that, way way less than the rated 15amps. So we have no heat issues here. Again all it does it turns a relay on or off.

Its the standard 87 relay. From that relay that powers the light is where I used 10 gauge. Yes over did it some but for the cost like my wires to stay cool. So power is running from the power terminal off the fuseblock to the relay, on that wire I have an in-line 30amp fuse. From there I am using the same 10 gauge wire to power the light.



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Old 10-26-2016, 03:42 PM   #263 (permalink)
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Default OMG
Very helpful! Thanks for the post. Still the most horrible thing I've had to do in months.. wtf was Ford thinking with this set up? I guess we'd all be happier with 2 more inches though...
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:02 PM   #264 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RonLWilliams View Post
Very helpful! Thanks for the post. Still the most horrible thing I've had to do in months.. wtf was Ford thinking with this set up? I guess we'd all be happier with 2 more inches though...

That is correct, is very tight there.
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:28 PM   #265 (permalink)
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Am I able to run 3 separate lights through 1 switch? Each one draws less than 3A and I'd run though upfitter 1 or 2, those are the ones I currently have available. I know the amperage is significantly less than max but will there be any issues running 3 hot wires to just 1 pass-through wire? As in, will they short each other out or something??
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:13 AM   #266 (permalink)
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You know, I'm dealing with this same pain-in-the-ass light wiring process and getting a fuse that keeps blowing on AUX 2.

Because of that I've busted out the wiring diagrams...

What I don't understand is why in the hell we're using the short connections under the passenger dash with pass thru wires anyways. Why not just go straight from Pin 5 of the Aux switch relays in the Relay box on the driver's side engine bay?

It's the same exact wire that comes from that pin, with the harness, over to the interior passenger kick panel to be spliced with the pass thru wires...

I think I might make myself up a little harness and test it out tomorrow. It looks like it's as simple as popping out the factory wire / pin 5 from the corresponding aux relay connector, and popping in my own to go straight to my light.

Shit, if it works and anyone is still doing this nonsense of the pass thru wires I'll custom make some for those who want to go this route. If I have time tomorrow I'll post up the electrical diagrams and some pics of what I'm talking about.
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:36 AM   #267 (permalink)
 
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Default Upfitter switch stopped working
This post was really helpful for me, until.....

My Upfitter 1 switch stopped working after a couple days though. No lights and no power. Good fuse and good relay. Good connections. What is going on??

Well, pulled apart the console and found the microswitches had Starbucks froofy sticky coffee residue in them (previous owner). This combined with the cold weather caused one of the little forks on the inside of the switch to crack. The little fork couldn't flip the microswitch. No yellow light, no power.

So a little hi end CA and put it back together. Careful because the fork is right where the switch pivot is and you can break the fork again putting the switch back together.

Hope these pics help someone. The upfitter switch pod is about $90 and this fix is essentially free.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:12 AM   #268 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BIRDMAN View Post
Yes, again. This time with more pictures and *hopefully* simplest instructions yet.

1. Choose your upfitter switch based on the current draw your lighting device creates. To determine the amperage, divide the wattage of the device by 14.4v. Amps = watts/volts

From the factory the switches are fused as follows (Fuse # in under hood fuse/relay panel):
AUX 1 30A (#18)
AUX 2 30A (#19)
AUX 3 15A (#44)
AUX 4 10A (#28)


2. Remove the dash panel on the passenger side by pulling straight out. It's made easy by grabbing on to the vent hole and giving a gentle pull. Remove the panel and put aside.



3. Release the glove box by opening it and pulling in the box sides to clear the rubber stops. The glove box will just hang down.



4. Take a look inside toward the right the glove box opening. You will see 8 dead end wires. Based on which AUX switch you have chosen to use, locate the corresponding wire and strip it (make sure the switch is off of course). The +12v power comes from these wires.

AUX 1 Yellow
AUX 2 Green with Brown tracer
AUX 3 Purple with Green tracer
AUX 4 Brown




5. The other 4 wires you will see - Green, Blue, Purple and Red are the "pass through wires". One end of them is behind the glove box, the other end is under the hood near the firewall on the passenger side. These wires are "passed through" the firewall for your convenience. They do not directly correspond with any switches, they are just there to use. You simply pick one of the wires, connect your corresponding AUX switch wire to it with a crimp connector (or solder, but this can be difficult based on the limited space), and move to under the hood.



6. Under the hood you will see the other ends of those 4 pass through wires - Green, Blue, Purple and Red. Whichever wire you connected your AUX switch wire to is the one that is now energized +12v (when the switch is on) and the wire you should use to run to your device.

From the factory, the pass through wires are taped to a wiring harness. Pull out the one you picked and proceed with your wiring.

*Example: If I want to use AUX 1 to power my 40" LED light bar, I will need to use the Yellow power wire that corresponds to AUX 1. I can connect the Yellow wire to any of the Green, Blue, Purple or Red pass through wires behind the glove box. Let's say I picked to use the Red pass through wire, now I am going to hook the positive wire from my light bar to the Red wire under the hood.



7. Once you have run more primary wire from the pass through wire under the hood to your light, you can move on to grounding the light. You can choose any of the factory grounding points that are very conveniently located near the pass through wires. I recommend just using a ring terminal and bolting under the factory ground point.



8. With your wiring complete, using some flex conduit and zip ties will clean up your work. Proceed with all connections and securing wiring using good automotive wiring practices to avoid any future issues.

That was a really good post!!!!! I was thinking about adding some fog lights to my Gen2 when I get it, but I wasn't sure how to go about doing it. Seems like a fairly simple process thanks to you!!!!
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:14 AM   #269 (permalink)
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Awesome. Very helpful
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